Like the title says I've been trying to lower my TA, running my waterfall 10 hours a day for the last 3 days, NO HELP! I'm at 140-150 right now. Drained about 3 feet of water couple of weeks ago to lower CYA but all that did was lower CYA and raise Hardness! Very hard water here (450+). Any other suggestions?
Lowering high TA
- Thread starter maxepr1
- Start date
So, running your waterfall isn't raising your pH at all?
In your area you probably have R/O services available and that would take care of everything.
In your area you probably have R/O services available and that would take care of everything.
CH always runs in the mid to upper 300s, but ever since I replaced about 1/3 of the water it's been high.
I don't know what your water chemistry is, but it would seem like taking your PH down from 8.2 to 7.0 with muriatic acid would reduce your TA quite a bit.
Does your fill water have high TA too? Would you mind posting some test results?
Does your fill water have high TA too? Would you mind posting some test results?
What are you using to lower the pH after you get it up?
Bring the pH down to 7.0 as Puffin suggested and lower it again before it gets to 8.0. A few times of that should lower the TA a bit.
Bring the pH down to 7.0 as Puffin suggested and lower it again before it gets to 8.0. A few times of that should lower the TA a bit.
Ok just tested here are the results:
FC 19
CC 0
TC 19
PH 7.8
CYA 85
CH 440
TA 110 or 130 Turns blue at 110 and pinkish red at 130 I added more drops (20) and the color never changed
Borates 30-40 color doesnt match anything on the bottle! I know I'm under by 8 boxes per the calculator.
CH tap water out of the sink is 220
I am using MA to lower PH. The only chemicals added to the pool is Borax, Bleach , MA. FC is so high because I'm coming down off shock.
FC 19
CC 0
TC 19
PH 7.8
CYA 85
CH 440
TA 110 or 130 Turns blue at 110 and pinkish red at 130 I added more drops (20) and the color never changed
Borates 30-40 color doesnt match anything on the bottle! I know I'm under by 8 boxes per the calculator.
CH tap water out of the sink is 220
I am using MA to lower PH. The only chemicals added to the pool is Borax, Bleach , MA. FC is so high because I'm coming down off shock.
So TA has been going down, if somewhat slowly. That is how it tends to go when lowering TA, it takes a while.
Your PH is high enough that you can add acid again to bring PH back down.
Based on your description, your TA is 130.
Your PH is high enough that you can add acid again to bring PH back down.
Based on your description, your TA is 130.
I think the borates are really the main cause for my PH spike! will be adding more when storms pass.
I know the borates thread says to get your TA squared away before you add borates, but I'm not sure why. You may want to wait on that until you get your TA where you want it. (BTW, borax will raise your TA a little too.)
That I think is an interesting enough question, why is it recommended to get your TA right before adding borates?
That I think is an interesting enough question, why is it recommended to get your TA right before adding borates?
Not if you are using a SWG to provide chlorine. WIth a SWG keeping TA that high is a recipe for rapid PH increases and constant acid additions.ThePoolNinja said:
I don't have a swcg and I keep my TA at 80 and the pH stays rock solid at 7.6. It all depends on the personality of your pool. Even if they were using Trichlor that range might not be good for the OP's pool. I kept adjusting mine until the pH stopped rising and a TA of 80 is where it stopped.
???? I thought the purpose of having high TA is to resist ph change? How can having high TA cause rapid Ph changes?JasonLion said:
2001rotax800 said:
High TA promotes PH rise. not sure why you thought high TA would resist ph change, unless you are using Trchlor for chlorination. Trichlor is acidic and having a slightly higher TA would then help resist PH drop
From the pool School
TA - Total Alkalinity
Total alkalinity indicates the water's ability to buffer pH changes. Buffering means you need to use a larger quantity of a chemical to change the pH. At low TA levels, the pH tends to swing around wildly. At high TA levels, the pH tends to drift up.
I guess I did not read the last sentence, thanks
TA - Total Alkalinity
Total alkalinity indicates the water's ability to buffer pH changes. Buffering means you need to use a larger quantity of a chemical to change the pH. At low TA levels, the pH tends to swing around wildly. At high TA levels, the pH tends to drift up.
I guess I did not read the last sentence, thanks
Been aerating for 2 days about 10 hours. Dropped down to 110 on the TA, with the PH (7.2). So Jason your right, "After Borating it is more slower of a correction". So I figure I'm going to have to aerate all week and I should be down around 80-90. Not sure about the Borates yet? I'm still not at full 50 yet, so I won't say for sure. I don't see the "SPARKLE" that everyone is talking about in my water.
It will go even faster if you lower the pH to 7.0 (assuming your test kit reads down to 6.8). As shown in this chart, at 7.0 there is about 50% more carbon dioxide in the water than at 7.2 so should outgas faster as a result.