3.5yo Water Chemistry Check-In

[SDPoolOwner]

After my pool remodel (13g pebble + raised spa/spillway + solar), I have been maintaining my pool myself for the last 3.5 years. I try my best to follow tips from this website, but it would be great to get feedback on some recent test values:

I use liquid chlorine. I have never added anything other than Baking Soda, Acid, Liquid Chlorine, and Chlorine Tabs (over vacation only). Current test values:

Alkalinity = 40 [Low. Correcting now by adding ~10lbs of Arm & Hammer Baking Soda to bring it back to ~100]
pH 7.4
Free Chlorine = 3.48
Total Chlorine = 3.66
Cyanuric Acid = 20 [Just noticed that it was low. Should I take action to increase it now or just wait until the summer and use a few chlorine tabs to bring it up to 40?]

Measured by Leslie's.
Calcium Hardness = 396 [Per TFP, normal range is 350-550, so no action?]
Iron = 0.1
Copper = 0.3 [Should I correct this? If so, how? Leslie's suggested using No Metal. Since my TDS are also high should explore using reverse osmosis filtration and filter some of my pool water? Note: I had a leak in my raise spa and I believe water was flowing over copper pipe as it flowed from my spa to pool. Do you think this caused the higher copper reading?]
Phosphates = 849 [Per TFP, I have read not to worry about this until it's over 1000. Should I use Orenda 10,000?]
TDS = 4100

Thanks!

 

[TinFoilHat]

3 1/2 years on this forum and you still have Leslies test your water? Fill out your signature and get one of the recommended testing kits.
Test Kits Compared

 

[pjt]

Alkalinity = 40 [Low. Correcting now by adding ~10lbs of Arm & Hammer Baking Soda to bring it back to ~100]
pH 7.4
Free Chlorine = 3.48
Total Chlorine = 3.66

How are you testing? Those look like store results.

Don't add baking soda for now. They probably gave you "adjusted alkalinity" and it's a false low result. TA down to 50 is perfectly fine. Be judicious with MA dosing as your TA approaches the 50-60 range. Under normal circumstances, you'll likely never need to add baking soda.

First order of business is getting a proper test kit. I'd suggest a TF-Pro. And stay out of the pool store.

TF-Pro

tftestkits.net

 

[YippeeSkippy]

How often do you go on vacation and use pucks? If you are using Clorox XtraBlu pucks they may be the source of your copper.

 

[Newdude]

Copper = 0.3

Ok ill go with just this one. Leslie's own stated variance in their copper test is +/- 0.3 when the level is 0.3. So with a perfectly calibrated machine, yours is probably 0 to 0.6. It may be higher if the machine was wonky that day. Or it's 0.

Never cheat off the dumbest kid in class. I don't care he got 3 right last time. It was a fluke.

I guess I shouldn't let them slide for TA either. They use adjusted Alkalinity (usually just listed as Alkalinity.... such a small detail). Adjusted Alkalinity is lower, so then you need to buy really expensive baking soda that was $10 for 13 lbs at Costco and such. Jacking your TA will increase the Ph rise, annnnnnnd then they have Ph down for that. Which lowers your TA.

Ain't nothing 'free' about their free test. It's designed to sell chemicals, as you saw.

 

[SDPoolOwner]

3 1/2 years on this forum and you still have Leslies test your water? Fill out your signature and get one of the recommended testing kits.
Test Kits Compared

I have been using Taylor K-2005 to test Alkalinity, PH, Chlorine, and Calcium Hardness 2x/week in summer and 1x/week in winter. I supplement with Acquacheck 7 test strips during summer months to quickly check between my 2x/week Taylor tests (based on significant weather changes or pool use) and to check CYA.

Thank you for providing a link to the test kit comparison. It doesn't look like the TF-Pro test kit in your signature tests Copper, Phosphates, or TDS. What do you use to test those?

Thanks!

 

[Newdude]

What do you use to test those?

We don't test those.

They proved their metals test was all but useless. 0 to 0.6 is suspect. If you are 0.6+, you're double the threshold where staining usually occurs and you likely have irrefutable proof your metals are high.

TDS is meaningless for maintenance. Let's take just salt and calcium for an example.

Salt 500
Calcium 2500
TDS 3000
Or
Salt 2500
Calcium 500
TDS 3000

The parts are everything and the sum means nothing

Phosphates don't matter for those of us maintaining a proper FC/CYA ratio.

 

[SJPoe]

Phosphates don't matter for those of us maintaining a proper FC/CYA ratio.

...but they do if you sell a product that removes them...

 

[TinFoilHat]

ONLY IF they sell a product that "removes them."

 

[pjt]

I have been using Taylor K-2005

That's missing the critical FAS-DPD chlorine test. You can buy a K-1515 or just buy the individual reagents. I would also highly recommend getting a SpeedStir or other type of stirring device.

Alkalinity, PH, Chlorine, and Calcium Hardness 2x/week in summer and 1x/week in winter.

Once your chemistry is under control, you'll be testing only chlorine and pH a couple times a week. TA maybe every week or two. CH and CYA every month or every couple months.

I supplement with Acquacheck 7 test strips during summer months to quickly check between my 2x/week Taylor tests (based on significant weather changes or pool use) and to check CYA.

The test strips are inaccurate and counterproductive. Only use high quality testing methods. Use the CYA test in your K-2005 to check CYA levels.

It doesn't look like the TF-Pro test kit in your signature tests Copper, Phosphates, or TDS. What do you use to test those?

They simply aren't needed under normal circumstances. Never add any copper chemicals to your water.