15 June 2024 This is like starting up a chemical plant!

You can tie in the pool main drain to the filter pump, but you would need to have one check valve before the filter pump suction manifold so that water cannot go from the pool main drain to the trough main drains.

I would be 50/50 on keeping or eliminating it.

It can be useful, but also not that useful.
Thanks James. All of your help on this pool is much appreciated! We're getting to crunch time. Placing all remaining equipment orders next week.

Chris
 
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So here we are, forming sub finished all the steel and drain plumbing this morning. Just have final plumbing for spa jets, return jets and LED light niches left for Monday. Hoping to schedule inspection for Tuesday. Weather looks pretty iffy for gunite first part of the week and I seem to have some kind of hold for providing my electrical contractor verification before I can schedule the steel and bonding inspection. I think this is because my electrical sub has not signed on to my permit so I have a back up if I need to hand carry a different form listing them to the building department.

A few plumbing and piping details were finalized with @JamesW expert advice and now I'm starting to get ready to learn about my RPi set up and building the mock up in the garage to configure while I'm waiting for concrete to cure. As I've mentioned previously, @Katodude has been instrumental in this area. Building a pool is way more fun and less stressful with all the TFP Brain Trust only a quick post away. I've already gotten a lot of help from James and Kato plus @ajw22, @Jimrahbe, @JoyfulNoise, @kimkats, @AQUA~HOLICS, @Newdude, @bdavis466 to name a few. Thank you all much!

Chris

Shortly after publishing this I realized @MyAZPool wrote the guide for the pool control program I'll be using also. Before I looked into this I thought the diy version might be pretty limited. The more I read the more I realized it really has much more capability. Here's a preliminary look at the page I will be using to control from almost any device:

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I don’t think I would put any type of suction in the pool, other than a vacuum port, which will stay closed for most of its life.

Have you considered (2) 3hp pumps instead of the single 5hp? I really like the intelliflo XFs And they can be grabbed for decent prices right now since the intelliflo3’s are being pushed. The XFs are a better design as well.
 
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I don’t think I would put any type of suction in the pool, other than a vacuum port, which will stay closed for most of its life.

Have you considered (2) 3hp pumps instead of the single 5hp? I really like the intelliflo XFs And they can be grabbed for decent prices right now since the intelliflo3’s are being pushed. The XFs are a better design as well.
B,
Thanks for the reply. Originally I thought about 2-3 HP's and ended up going with the 5 with the thought that I can add a 3 later on if needed but this would completely load the sub panel. If they're cheap enough now I may use a 3 hp vs for the filter pump though... will definitely need to check on this. Nice thing about these vs pumps is if the price is close I have the extra flow if ever needed but economy of small pump most of the time.

Chris
 
Pentair gas and HP heaters now all have RS-485 controls that let the heater do the temperature control instead of the automation. The automation sends the heater the desired setpoint to maintain. And diagnostics and messages are sent back to the automation through RS-485.

That is the preferred control rather then the fireman’s switch.
Alan,

Thanks for this information. I guess I had never used the RS485 controls on my previous JXI installation. Seems like it was available but I just stuck with what I knew. I agree that having better diagnostics could Make problem solving easier at least. Will take a look at the raspberry pi RS 485 capability. I know it has everything needed to do pump speed control and probably has heater control as well. I learned a lot about heaters with my self-inflicted problems you may remember from several years ago. Looks like I'm going to have to dig in and learn about 485 control.

Chris
 
Actually we need to phone a friend for this one.

@rstrouse do we have RS-485 control for Pentair heaters. Do you need me to add it to the issue on Git.
I don't know about the error reporting but I know the control works. I worked through this with him back when I swapped my board out to the RS-485 capable board.

--Jeff
 
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06 March Update: Big Day We're Ready to shoot!

Folks,
I walked the pool several times last two days as the steel crew did final steel work, and did all the plumbing runs isolated and verified with pressure tests. Also, finally the rebar caps arrived... better late than never! Then today we passed inspection with flying colors. Yes! I know the inspector they sent out from the house build 2 years ago. He's one of the most meticulous they have and when he says it's ready it's like having a peer review. As several have mentioned here Florida has had their share of shoddy workmanship and crooks in the pool business. I think this is why they use this guy for inspections. He told me he does almost all pool inspections in this area.

For the last week or so I've been in daily contact with the plant manager for our gunite supplier. So today I confirmed we're ready for first thing tomorrow and he is. That's great but it gets better. He called me and he has a crew that finished a small job early today and he wants to send them over to set up plus shoot the basin, spa and some other sections. This job was originally scheduled as 2 1/2 so this means we'll get it shot all this week, much preferable to me!

I've always enjoyed capturing key milestones of accomplishment for all my projects whether its a massive project in the South China Sea or a tiny project in my backyard.. Here's a quick look back to the original vision for this project and a few more photos including one special one for @JamesW!

Chris

Here's the 3D rendering that best captured our vision for the build way before we had started the house:
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Just before we started marking for the build:
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We captured this glimpse during the house build - allowed us to capture a real view rather than just a vision in our mind
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Now its getting closer to reality:
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This one's for you James
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Curious how you’re planning to keep the shell hydrated? Lots of one on one time with your new baby or some wild a** automation with hydration sensors?
Good question! Our plan is to scab into a zone off the sprinkler system that will be connected to a temporary line of sprinklers that run the length of the pool. The zone was isolated early on before the dig since it ran right down the middle of where the pool is now. The sprinkler is automated so I can adjust daily depending on the amount of rain we get. It's all visible on the security cameras so I can watch it and control it over internet. Good think since I'll be out of town next week for some eye surgery!

Chris
 
Quick update

First outside wall of the infinity basin is up and running as well as the floor of the basin. So far we are on our second load of gunite and should do about 18 yd today. Total will be about 90 yd so we have quite a way to go. The gunite operation is pretty cool to watch. One truck has the compressor that blows the gunite dry mix down the large pipe. They ferry gunite mix to the site and switch hopper trucks about every 10 yards. Here's a short video showing the beginning of the shoot and a photo finishing out the first wall.

Chris

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Our plan is to scab into a zone off the sprinkler system
How are you going to fill ? I tapped a cut line to fill because the 1 inch sprinkler pipe straight to the house feed whooped using hoses.

I made the end of it low pressure with a T and a bunch of holes and shoved it in a HD bucket full of polyfill. When I took the poly fill out after, it poured iced tea all over so it definitely trapped crud.


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How are you going to fill ? I tapped a cut line to fill because the 1 inch sprinkler pipe straight to the house feed whooped using hoses.

I made the end of it low pressure with a T and a bunch of holes and shoved it in a HD bucket full of polyfill. When I took the poly fill out after, it poured iced tea all over so it definitely trapped crud.


View attachment 556855


View attachment 556856
I think I remember your posts about this. I'm still trying to find a bulk water truck that operates around here. If that doesn't pan out I'll fill from my irrigation well with it's own mixed bed softener followed by the bicarb start method that @onBalance invented. Sulfur should dissipate with no issue I can run it at pretty high rate but the softener will probably limit to 10 gpm.

Chris

Chris
 
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That drawing really helped me know where you are putting the edge of the cage. If the wife thinks an access door is needed then so be it BUT can't you just get into the it from the pool side?
Sorry, missed this question. Yes I can get in from the pool but it's over 5' drop and I'm thinking be good to my knee replacement!
 
07 March Update - Starting on gutter at the sun deck end and next steps

This is another big day. All during this project I've been trying to explain (unsuccessfully) how the gutter system will work to my wife and other friends. Even some of the subs seemed a little puzzled except the ones that had done it before. I've also gotten quite a few questions about this design and how it works from others here. I almost dropped the concept but was encouraged by a post from @ajw22 to investigate how it is done more commonly in Europe and other locations. The more I looked into this the more became excited about doing this on our pool. The photo's I captured after work shut down yesterday are starting to show how it will work:

The back edge of the pool is a standard infinity edge that spills into a basin behind the pool. The distance from the back top of the infinity edge to the bottom of the basin is about 5' and the basin containment wall is about 2' below the pool. So the basin that is holding pool spill-over goes about 3' below grade and it's 3' wide.
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The entire remainder of the pool is surrounded by a gutter between two 6" walls that go down and join together about 1' below the surface and combine to form a 1' wall the rest of the way down. We construct this by forming the outer 6" wall first. This operation has just started at the sun deck end of the pool. Next step will be to place the 2"x3" strips of architectural foam right inside the wall and then shoot the inside of the wall. Gunite is a fabulous material for this since they first shoot a big long strip of gunite around outer steel mats and then the forming crew comes behind to shape the top very precisely with string lines they set. Below you can see the first section of outer edge with my architectural foam in place. The foam is exactly to dimension and the fit is perfect. I wasn't that surprised at the perfect foam dimension but the concrete finishing is way more precise than I imagined it could be. I am so glad we chose Prestige Gunite for this job!
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Hard to tell exactly how precise the fit is while holding the camera but when I push the foam into the concrete wall it's exactly right:
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This edge will continue around the pool after all the walls are up and that won't happen 'till late today. Both ends will transition from the rectangle to a 2" piece of pipe that will elbow down to the basin. This is where that pipe will eventually be installed on one end that will dump into the basin:

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When we plaster and tile top of the inside wall will get a 6" tile that slopes up 2% into the gutter. The back side of the gutter will have a 6" tile that slopes 5%. This will allow me to block in a valve on each end of the gutter so it is completely flooded and all the flow is forced over the wall. When this happens pool level increases about 5/16" so the tile slope behind the gutter accommodates the rise in level so pool water is not spilled out of the pool all over the pavers. Of course if the swimmers are very active some could spill out but that happens in any pool.

Next Steps:
This morning the forming crew will install a plywood form for the infinity wall. That's the final piece of work for the forming crew other than tear-down of the forming in the pool but I'll have them back to run pipe through the trenches over to the equipment pad. They've done a great job for me and I like the idea of having one crew do the piping in the pool and all the way to the pad. Way less chance of mix ups! Not sure how the license works in other jurisdictions but here in Martin County Florida the forming and steel sub license qualifies him to do all the plumbing and bonding inside and exterior bonding and run it all to the pad. Then electrician and plumber or OB hook everything at the pad and sub-panel. I'll probably do the plumbing myself since I don't really like most of the installations I've seen from the plumbers so far. Nowhere near enough unions, and very little thought about future operation and maintenance. For electrical I may go either way but probably prefer the sub if he's available and he's already signed on to my permit so I'll have to get him to "bless" my work before final electrical inspection. My electrical sub did the entire house electric and does superb work very fast at a reasonable price but he's extremely busy and this is a pretty small job for him.

Any questions/comments/suggestions are most welcome.

Chris
 
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Two channel drains will likely be enough, but I probably would have done three.

Are you going to have just one 5 HP pump for everything?
I'm coming up with ~3 gpm per linear ft. We have about 100' linear ft around the pool not including the infinity edge so close to 300 gpm with 1/2" of head. I really struggled with this. We had 2" channel drain in the paver section of our previous pool and it was as big as I felt comfortable to avoid having a place to catch toes this close to the edge... one of those things I'm a little puckered about until I see how it works. On the pumps you quickly convinced me to use a separate filter pump and the more I think about it the better I like that recommendation. I think I'll go with the 3 HP XF that @AQUA~HOLICS mentioned. Normal filtering flow rate will be way less than capacity and I can plumb it so I can use it to supplement the 5 HP if needed. What do you think about this idea? I can also do this without overloading the sub-panel.

Chris
 

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