2 problems

Thanks Ike but your last post with the links, I looked at it and remember I am a novice and cannot possibly understand all of that....I need easy instructions. I understand to drain the pool which I will do to lower the CYA. Once I do that, I will retest the water. I do have a good kit and I do test my water regularly (from this point on). Once I refill the water, do I follow the shocking instructions from scratch from the pool school ignoring all the products I have already added?

You must remember we are not all experts and reading some of this stuff is like double dutch to me. :?
 
I would suggest following the shocking direction from pool school mostly ignoring what you have already done. I know those links do go into lots of technical details explaining about the CYA Chlorine relationship, but I am not aware of a better link here that tries to explain the reasoning only ones that include the suggested levels without explanation like the chart in pool school

Ike
 
Is this the test kit you have now? http://www.lesliespool.com/Home/Pool-Ch ... 18547.html

If so you could add most of the important features of the TF-100 kit with the following individual tests:

http://tftestkits.net/FAS-DPD-Chlorine- ... t-p47.html price $26 and the CYA test http://tftestkits.net/CYA-Cyanuric-Acid-Test-p48.html for $17 This still leaves you with no test for CH, which may or may not be important depending on the hardness of your fill water, CH tends to drift fairly slowly so you might choose to continue using pool store testing for it.

The full TF-100 runs $68 or $81 with the XL option.

If it were me I would probably go ahead and spring for the additional $40 for the XL version of the TF-100 just to avoid having to go into a pool store for somewhat questionable CH testing every few months (again depending on the hardness of your fill water again), that is a personal choice though.

Ike
 

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Thanks Chris. I will look at that one now. I am currently looking at the Taylor K-2006 which seems like it will be good for everything at $52. Online though so that means I need to wait a few days for it.
 
Catherineb said:
Isaac,
Do I need a FAS-DPD Chlorine test kit or the one that tests everything. If so, what is the proper name as they vary a lot in price.


Let me assure you that:
1) this stuff works
2) as complicated as it feels right now it gets easy
3) as long as you are trying to learn and are making an effort, people will bed over backwards to help you here.

First step - get a good test kit and learn to use it. (you are more than halfway there)

Second step, learn to IGNORE pool store tests and advice. (you are here, that is great!)

Third step - trust your results, error margins are tolerant, over time you will get more consistent and for now it is far better than bad test results.

Fourth step - learn what your FC levels need to be. In your case you will be shocking, so you have to learn a bit more at once, but it really boils down to:

CYA level dictates the FC needed to eliminate the nasty crud.

Shocking is NOT dumping in some set amount of chemicals and hoping for the best. Shocking is taking charge of the pool with knowledge and measurements. You maintain the FC level as close to shock level as possible until all of the conditions for doing are met. (Clean clear water and walls etc, no signs of algae. Over night FC losses are no more than 1. CC <= 0.5.

Detailed info: pool-school/shocking_your_pool


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I had a big shock need with high cya. Ordered the Xl version of the tf 100 and am more than 75% through the first bag of 870/871 in a month. Fortunately my consumption is 10% of what it was 2 weeks ago.
 
I would also recommend the Speed-stir. It makes doing most of the tests much easier. I've yet to hear from anyone who purchased one that wishes they didn't.

I know that most of this sounds complicated right now but trust me it get easier once you get going. I am nearly 50 and this is our first pool. It's been up and running for a year now. During the build process I decided that I should learn a how to take care of my pool. I was planning on using the pool stores to guide me through the process. Then I found this site. I read pool school a few times and it seemed way to complicated for me, but I continued to read the forums and slowly it all started to come together for me. Now it all makes sense and comes naturally. I've never had to shock and my water looks great. Hang in there and you will figure this out. In the beginning you will test like crazy but soon you will learn how your pool reacts and only need to test to confirm what you already know. Good luck!
 
Hello Bluechip, thank you...yes this is my mistake lol. In ground pool. plaster. I will change it immediately.

I have just tested the stain and it is copper. Bioguard lifted the stain. I am so excited but now the shops are closed and I will have to wait to use the stain remover until tomorrow. I am so anxious to add the Bioguard but it is memorial weekend....may need to wait until after the weekend.
 

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