1 inch per day is not due to evaporation. That amount of water loss along with salt loss points directly to a leak.
2 month old pool using 3 bags of salt per week
- Thread starter Solidity47
- Start date
- Feb 6, 2015
- 6,169
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
It is totally possible to lose 1" of water per day to evaporation. Especially in the desert where humidity is low. The highest evaporation rates are as Marty indicated... When the water temp is higher that the outside air temp. Add that to the low humidity of the air and evaporation increases.
To the OP - you need a dedicated salt test kit. Get a K-1766 drop test kit. You really can't totally rely on the salt readings from your SWG or automation. You need to tie down your actual salt level first to see where to look next.
After you figure out if you have a leak or not (and fix it if you do), you need to increase your CYA to 70 so the FC doesn't burn off as quickly. Then you follow the FC/CYA Levels to maintain FC. Right now, with CYA ~20, add enough chlorine to get to and maintain an FC of 3.
Also, that IC40 in a 32k gallon pool will require you to run it at 100% 24 hours per day - especially given the high temp and intense sun in Vegas. We recommend a SWG rated for two times the pool volume - in your case, that would be an IC60 at a minimum.
To the OP - you need a dedicated salt test kit. Get a K-1766 drop test kit. You really can't totally rely on the salt readings from your SWG or automation. You need to tie down your actual salt level first to see where to look next.
After you figure out if you have a leak or not (and fix it if you do), you need to increase your CYA to 70 so the FC doesn't burn off as quickly. Then you follow the FC/CYA Levels to maintain FC. Right now, with CYA ~20, add enough chlorine to get to and maintain an FC of 3.
Also, that IC40 in a 32k gallon pool will require you to run it at 100% 24 hours per day - especially given the high temp and intense sun in Vegas. We recommend a SWG rated for two times the pool volume - in your case, that would be an IC60 at a minimum.
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Thanks for all of the input, I will look into further leak testing.
I like the idea of dye testing...is there a certain pool dye recommended?...and do I start around the areas like my globrites and my underwater speakers?
What is most common on a pebble sheen pool?
I like the idea of dye testing...is there a certain pool dye recommended?...and do I start around the areas like my globrites and my underwater speakers?
What is most common on a pebble sheen pool?
Ha! Your humidity in Houston probably *adds* water to your pools!
But seriously, out farther west in the very dry heat high level evaporation is quite the norm.Maddie
So I got a K-1766 and it revealed 3200 vs my pentair app says 2950. So I think I identified one of my problems...normally I would be adding salt now...
So my next step is adding CYA and getting my chlorine up?...what is the best way to do that as I have never added CYA since starting my pool up in April and my pool guy insists that salt maintaining the salt levels will give me adequate chlorine...I think I will be moving on to maintain my pool myself after the knowledge I gained from this forum...thanks everyone.
I will also look into further leak testing as I am not confident that it has been ruled out.
So my next step is adding CYA and getting my chlorine up?...what is the best way to do that as I have never added CYA since starting my pool up in April and my pool guy insists that salt maintaining the salt levels will give me adequate chlorine...I think I will be moving on to maintain my pool myself after the knowledge I gained from this forum...thanks everyone.
I will also look into further leak testing as I am not confident that it has been ruled out.
what was the 24hr result of turning off the water for the pool fill? You can also use the bucket method marking the water level on the outside and inside and then checking the next day to see if they drop the same amount. Obviously, the pool autofill must be off for test to be accurate.
Ha! Your humidity in Houston probably *adds* water to your pools!
Maddie
haha I guess being in Houston clouds my perspective. The air is so humid I have to swim through it when I walk.
the_sphynx
Well-known member
- Feb 19, 2019
- 108
- Pool Size
- 25000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Solid,
Yes, I never trust the SWG. 3200 is perfectly fine for the SWG. In fact, as long as the "Low Salt" light isn't on on the SWG then you should be fine. Mine starts lighting up at about 2700ppm-ish. Even when it lights up I only use the K-1766 test results to determine how much to add. I put in maybe a bag a year...maybe. Your K-1766 test is the standard acceptable test for salt.
I don't live in the desert but I do live in SoCal and my pool evaporates about 1/4"-1/2" in the 90+ days so I wouldn't be super duper worried about a leak if I evaporated 7/8" in 99 degree desert heat myself. You have almost no humidity there so the atmosphere will take it however it can get it
.Next step is add CYA. You will want the CYA to get to about 70 or so. Most people around here use the "sock" method to add CYA. That is to buy the dry CYA (AKA Stabilizer) and put it in an old sock and hang it in front of a return. Squeeze the sock a few times a day while the pump is running and the CYA will dissolve and be absorbed by the water. be careful not to overshoot the CYA. I recommend only adding half the amount PoolMath tells you for your pool. Then test. Then add half what PoolMath tells you from there. Do that until you get to about that 70 mark.
Wait 24hrs before testing for CYA after adding it. It takes a while to "settle in".
Post the results of a full set of tests and we can go from there.