Hi All,
Did my first test with the TF-Pro kit. Initially I was a bit overwhelmed by all the reading and careful steps, but after running through it it wasn't so bad. Here is some background on my pool, the issues that started when it was opened a few weeks ago, and where I am today.
3rd year opening my 12x24x52 8800 gallon, Chlorine, cartridge filter, 1stage pump, semi-inground vinyl pool in NY. It was sealed tightly with non-permeable winter cover/tarp. Full Sun, very little debris, no algae, slightly cloudy water.
I followed my local pool store opening guide as in years past, and added Blue Seal Liquid Magnet (mineral remover), ran the pump for several hours, let the water settle, and took my water sample to the store for analysis:
Results were:
total chlo (1.52)
free chlo (1.52)
high copper (0.9)
low Alk (61)
low pH (6.9)
low Calcium hardness (23)
high CYA (123)
super high Phosphates (2,508) - This was a new test, in years past this wasn't tested for.
I didn't have the confidence the guy knew what he was doing. At some point he walked away with a test tube that was clear, and came back with it purple and said my levels were bad? In any event, we reviewed the computer generated results, they gave me a bottle of Phix Phos phosphate remover, and told me to add Phixit UP to raise the alkalinity. I did that, and the next day, the pool water went from being a little cloudy to super cloudy. Went from being OK , to BAD, can't see the bottom 4 feet cloudy bad.
Now I'm thinking there's a problem with the cartridge filter (it is 3 years old, but super clean and cleaned after after season with cartridge soak) - but I replace it anyway - brand new, run it a few days, no difference in water clarity.
I then read other guidance to in the pool water analysis to put in Krystal Klear (a Cationic polymeric coagulant) clarifier, hoping it would run it's course - no difference a few days later either.
Pool test strips showed better level of Alk, PH, high chlorine, and no free chlorine.
I went to a different pool store chain a week later, had them test the water, and water levels a week later were now:
total chlo (2.16)
free chlo (2.16)
high copper (0.8)
low Alk (64) (still low even after increasing it using last pool stores instructions)(also noted that the total alk has been adjusted due to the effect of CyA on tested Total Alk-whatever that means?)
good pH (7.5)
low Calcium hardness (23)
high CYA (125)
Phosphates (2,265) - came down a bit, but still super high
I'm told at this point to lower the levels of CYA that I would need to drain down the pool a few inches - and they gave me a tiny bag to drop in the skimmer to lower the Copper levels - didn't really want to, but seems harmless enough.
Even though I was told to drain a few inches of water, I really don't want to run through it again in the future especially with Memorial day coming up, I make the decision to drain about 3 feet of water, and refill with fresh water. Finally, clear water is back! I dump a gallon of liquid chlorine around the perimeter and run the filter overnight.
Check the levels with the test trips (waiting for TF-Pro kit still), see Alk and PH are low, so I throw in some Alk increaser - half a bag one day, retest, better results, throw in the other half of the bag the next day - ph and alk test strip color seems close, chlorine is super high, as expected, since dumping the gallon of it a few days earlier. Finally, the TF-Pro kit arrives!
I run through the instructions, and here are my first results:
FC = 6.5
CC = 0.0
pH = 7.5
TA = 130
CH = 125
CYA = 40
Here are my questions based on these results:
1. For the Chlorine test, after adding 5 drops of R-0003 and smart stir mix, it remained clear, so per instructions CC is 0 - is that accurate? Does that indicate that pool is clean and fully disinfected at this point?
2. It's very tricky to get the water exactly to the thin black line on the comparator block - any tips on dealing with this?
3. For the TA test, when adding the R-0009 one drop at a time and using the smart stir mixer. When continuing to add drops until the color changes red - does that indicate at the first sign of a shade of red, after it is no longer a pink color and that's when I stop, or when it gets to be a darker denser red?
4. I've previously raised my TA and it raised my pH along with it, but now it seems I have too much TA and pH is .1 off from ideal - what should I do?
5. After dumping in a gallon of liquid chlorine a few days ago, I still have the floating chlorinator in the pool with 1 - 3" slow dissolve puck - should I always keep this in there, or take it out and only re-add it when the chlorine levels come back down?
6. Should I do anything now to reduce the TA?
7. At what point do I "shock" my pool again on a maintenance schedule, historically I've done it once a week every Sunday, regardless of levels - is that best practice or do I do it based on Chlorine levels? (I usually put in a pound a week directly into the skimmer of shock (sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione Dihydrate/alkyl dimethly benzyl ammonium chloride)
8. Considering now that my pool is 80% "new" water and is clear - do I continue to put in all other pool store recommended chemicals for opening the pool ( such as algaecide, conditioner/stabilizer chemical catalyst.
Sorry for the long post, and thank you in advance for your tips and support.
Did my first test with the TF-Pro kit. Initially I was a bit overwhelmed by all the reading and careful steps, but after running through it it wasn't so bad. Here is some background on my pool, the issues that started when it was opened a few weeks ago, and where I am today.
3rd year opening my 12x24x52 8800 gallon, Chlorine, cartridge filter, 1stage pump, semi-inground vinyl pool in NY. It was sealed tightly with non-permeable winter cover/tarp. Full Sun, very little debris, no algae, slightly cloudy water.
I followed my local pool store opening guide as in years past, and added Blue Seal Liquid Magnet (mineral remover), ran the pump for several hours, let the water settle, and took my water sample to the store for analysis:
Results were:
total chlo (1.52)
free chlo (1.52)
high copper (0.9)
low Alk (61)
low pH (6.9)
low Calcium hardness (23)
high CYA (123)
super high Phosphates (2,508) - This was a new test, in years past this wasn't tested for.
I didn't have the confidence the guy knew what he was doing. At some point he walked away with a test tube that was clear, and came back with it purple and said my levels were bad? In any event, we reviewed the computer generated results, they gave me a bottle of Phix Phos phosphate remover, and told me to add Phixit UP to raise the alkalinity. I did that, and the next day, the pool water went from being a little cloudy to super cloudy. Went from being OK , to BAD, can't see the bottom 4 feet cloudy bad.
Now I'm thinking there's a problem with the cartridge filter (it is 3 years old, but super clean and cleaned after after season with cartridge soak) - but I replace it anyway - brand new, run it a few days, no difference in water clarity.
I then read other guidance to in the pool water analysis to put in Krystal Klear (a Cationic polymeric coagulant) clarifier, hoping it would run it's course - no difference a few days later either.
Pool test strips showed better level of Alk, PH, high chlorine, and no free chlorine.
I went to a different pool store chain a week later, had them test the water, and water levels a week later were now:
total chlo (2.16)
free chlo (2.16)
high copper (0.8)
low Alk (64) (still low even after increasing it using last pool stores instructions)(also noted that the total alk has been adjusted due to the effect of CyA on tested Total Alk-whatever that means?)
good pH (7.5)
low Calcium hardness (23)
high CYA (125)
Phosphates (2,265) - came down a bit, but still super high
I'm told at this point to lower the levels of CYA that I would need to drain down the pool a few inches - and they gave me a tiny bag to drop in the skimmer to lower the Copper levels - didn't really want to, but seems harmless enough.
Even though I was told to drain a few inches of water, I really don't want to run through it again in the future especially with Memorial day coming up, I make the decision to drain about 3 feet of water, and refill with fresh water. Finally, clear water is back! I dump a gallon of liquid chlorine around the perimeter and run the filter overnight.
Check the levels with the test trips (waiting for TF-Pro kit still), see Alk and PH are low, so I throw in some Alk increaser - half a bag one day, retest, better results, throw in the other half of the bag the next day - ph and alk test strip color seems close, chlorine is super high, as expected, since dumping the gallon of it a few days earlier. Finally, the TF-Pro kit arrives!
I run through the instructions, and here are my first results:
FC = 6.5
CC = 0.0
pH = 7.5
TA = 130
CH = 125
CYA = 40
Here are my questions based on these results:
1. For the Chlorine test, after adding 5 drops of R-0003 and smart stir mix, it remained clear, so per instructions CC is 0 - is that accurate? Does that indicate that pool is clean and fully disinfected at this point?
2. It's very tricky to get the water exactly to the thin black line on the comparator block - any tips on dealing with this?
3. For the TA test, when adding the R-0009 one drop at a time and using the smart stir mixer. When continuing to add drops until the color changes red - does that indicate at the first sign of a shade of red, after it is no longer a pink color and that's when I stop, or when it gets to be a darker denser red?
4. I've previously raised my TA and it raised my pH along with it, but now it seems I have too much TA and pH is .1 off from ideal - what should I do?
5. After dumping in a gallon of liquid chlorine a few days ago, I still have the floating chlorinator in the pool with 1 - 3" slow dissolve puck - should I always keep this in there, or take it out and only re-add it when the chlorine levels come back down?
6. Should I do anything now to reduce the TA?
7. At what point do I "shock" my pool again on a maintenance schedule, historically I've done it once a week every Sunday, regardless of levels - is that best practice or do I do it based on Chlorine levels? (I usually put in a pound a week directly into the skimmer of shock (sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione Dihydrate/alkyl dimethly benzyl ammonium chloride)
8. Considering now that my pool is 80% "new" water and is clear - do I continue to put in all other pool store recommended chemicals for opening the pool ( such as algaecide, conditioner/stabilizer chemical catalyst.
Sorry for the long post, and thank you in advance for your tips and support.
