depending on the leak if it is a small hole in the liner it can be patched to buy you some time
1st pool all kinds of questions!
- Thread starter coldjustin
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,952
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Ahh -- I missed the fact you might have a leak. Adding fresh water due to that will hide lots of ills from the Frog.
Take care.
Take care.
It is brand new and I've monitoring what i thought was a leak from the 1st week it was installed. Adding water way too often from what i can tell. It rained for the first 3 days the pool was up so it hid the leak. Then took a couple of days to dry up. Then the heat wave began. So hot that the pool installer had to black flag his crew from installing pools untill it cooled down some. I've been in contact with him multiple times and hes aware of my concerns from that 1st week. He's been great in all honesty. Cant blame him on a manufacture defect of the liner. Im pretty sure its at one of the seams on the floor of the pool.
Nice! Thank you! I should have a read into that a little more but I felt reasonably confident knowing whether i could see that dot or not. Until i actually had the test kit here in front of me. The pool stores number was 65 on the CYA last week and that seems pretty accurate from what my results were. And the lady that i spoke with today confirmed everything thats been said here. She even went as far to say dont buy ANY chemicals from pool stores to lower the copper or CYA. The only way to lower it is drain some water. I asked why they sell a product that ADDS copper if its so bad. Her response was algea control. She has worked for this pool store for 10+ years and seemed very helpful. She even recommended a pool store that deals with frog products near me and told me that my test kit was the best investment for the pool. Maybe I have a decent pool store? She may have been a smooth talker but either way she had me convinced.
Should i be concerned with my TA at 130? Im assuming this is why my PH level likes to creep up. However now that I have an accurate test result my PH being 7.5 seems near perfect. Water is still clear enough i can distinguish the individual squares on the floor of my liner from the deck.
Not a big concern. Lower pH to 7.2, let it rise back to 7.8, lower it again to 7.2, and repeat. Overtime, you should see the TA go down. Some people will try to aerate the pool to allow the rise to go quicker. I just let it go naturally. In the last 2 months I lowered mine from 120 to 80 - a couple of weeks ago I changed my low point to 7.3 because it was holding a lot longer and 7.2 is borderline for my current CSI. I am pretty close to 7.5 set it and forget it.
My return jet is pointing down so no noise is heard. I assume by pointing that up some and allowing some aeration my PH and TA levels would change?
It will raise pH and have no effect on TA. Adding muriatic acid to lower pH down to 7.2 will start lowering the TA. You need a decent swing in high to low to get the TA to drop. And 7.8 to 7.2 is safe. Honestly, I rarely even measure TA. Mine stuck at 7.8 for almost a year. Every once in awhile I would add a couple ounces just to see a color change. Then this summer it moved to 8.0 so I lowered to 7.5 and the next day it was 7.8 again. So I checked TA and sure enough it had been slowly rising to 120. Once you find your pool sweet spot you know it. Yours might be 100 another might be 50-60.
jagger2005's advice is all perfect. Just to be clear though - it does not need to be a goal to lower TA. It will not make your water better in any way. If you find yourself having to add acid more often than you like, and want to change that as fast as possible, then you use jagger2005's advice which will lower TA quickly and liner-safely as long as you pour slow and brush after. As long as your PH is well behaved (doesn't go below 7.2 or over 7.8) too rapidly for you to mind, then the only reason to adjust TA would be if you had CSI issues.
...hi cj, I've been following your thread and hats off for your patients. My advice for your double drive gates are with respect there are little people in the house. Self closing springs on gates can be a curious pinch point for little fingers, (ouch!) air cylinders are a good option. The gates should open in and NOT out towards the pool in order to hinder the escapee. You can use spring loaded latches attached at the bottom with a flat strike plate and hole on the deck floor. see link:
uxcell 50mm 2-inch Length Metal Spring Loaded Barrel Bolt Door Latch Lock Silver Tone - - Amazon.com
These type latches come in various sizes and strengths with a cable for unlatching. A cane bolt is usually on one gate to keep in place as the other is used for passage.
Good luck,
Mike.
If those latches aren't what you're looking for, please start a thread just for latch recommendations. This has to be something others would benefit from too. Link to your new thread here for us please, or let us know you started one and we'll link it for you if you can't figure it out.
Thanks for the replies! I found a setup that will meet the requirements for the time being. We are having a pool party Sunday for my 5 year olds birthday. I'll try to upload a few pictures. I did go with a 14" gate closing spring from a big box store. Not happy with it though and will start a thread just on gates and latches. I've not seen too many self closing self latching double gates around pools. Again thank you all so very much!
Have a wonderful party! You can boost the FC up a few points before the party if you like. Just don't go over shock FC for your cya. [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
Funny you say that! Did a test last night for fun and my FC is at 9.5, CYA still around 65. Ph somewhere between 7.5 and 7.8 We had some rain and very little activity in the pool. I was told by the pool store chemical lady to skip the usual weekly shock and shock AFTER the party. Also I asked her how long shes been employed there, 8 years! She seems reliable and considering I'm not buying chemicals from that store I've developed some trust there.
Testing FC with FAS-DPD, testing CYA correctly, using the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] chart, then using PoolMath and sticking with bleach allows you to bump the FC while still staying in the safe to swim range, without risking cloudiness. The goal before the party is to have confidence you'll stay above min FC even with the party bather load, a great step towards bather safety. After the party ends, the goal is to ensure you are in or above the target range. Will a pack of shock be enough? Who knows.
Using samples that traveled to the pool store, pool store testing, and cal-hypo or dichlor , is not a process that allows the kind of advice we can offer backed by precise testing and science.
I'm really, really glad you have such a nice pool store.
Using samples that traveled to the pool store, pool store testing, and cal-hypo or dichlor , is not a process that allows the kind of advice we can offer backed by precise testing and science.
I'm really, really glad you have such a nice pool store.