I would suggest that you read the owners manual to see if it fits in with your needs. I find it useful to understand the "why" behind the design elements of equipment, so that I can judge for myself whether it was good.
The two main complaints that I have seen posted about electric chlorine production are related to the internal conductivity (salinity) control set points, and flow detection problems.
Of the two, flow detection is often cited as the most important safety feature, preventing a build up of explosive gases inside of the cell, which could maim or kill. As to whether a "internal electronic flow sensing tab" is the same as a water presence detector, SGS would have to verify how they know that water is
flowing through the cell, and not merely present. You can decide for yourself how dangerous a cell explosion, if it were to occur, would be for your installation. I have never heard of one myself, and just because gas builds up, doesn't mean that it will ignite - it still needs a spark. I do not know if scale build up is a problem for their sensor, or if wiring connections will be, either. I seem to recall that most problems with flow detectors involve the cable/connections, and not the actual sensor/switch. It looks like the cable is factory connected to the SGS cell, so maybe that will eliminate that point, but there is still a connection at the base of the controller.
You can judge for yourself whether a good grade of cable/"chord"(sic) is used. I have encountered many "Made in China" cables/cords that break internally with only light bending, leading to "jiggling" to make it work - until it shorts internally!
The conductance(salinity) set points are usually to prevent damage to the unit. The calculation of a "salt level" is for operator (in)convenience, usually requires sensors separate of the cell plates, and requires adding a way to display it. Most ECGs are built with internal (replaceable/resettable) current limiters(fuses/breakers) to protect the transformer from too much current ("High Salt"). Too little current ("Low Salt") means that chlorine production is low, and will result in falling Free Chlorine levels in the pool. A good pool operator knows how much salt is in the pool because it was written down, as are water additions, and was tested for along with the other attributes of the water quality needed for a Trouble Free Pool!
SGS state that their unit "reduces its output automatically with temperatures 59
oF and colder" (the output of any ECG will fall as the temperature drops), but you must manually adjust it higher during "periods of high heat"? I would not equate that with Autopilots automatic temperature compensation, which adjusts both ways.
But is that a Big Deal for you?
The
http://www.poolsupplyworld.com/salt-chlorinators/sgsserieschlorinators.htm page makes several marketing statements that are not borne out by the SGS owners manual-
# No programming necessary -> Good, but you do have to set it!
# Easy to read LED display ->Good!
# Highest sanitizer output of any residential unit -> But does that = shortest cell life???
# Clear cell housing for easy visual inspection ->Good, but the manual says not to expose it to sunlight?
# Spacing of electrodes designed to minimize calcium buildup ->Good!
# Cleaning tool (SGS Magic Wand) easily fits between electrodes ->Good! You can also stir paint with it!
# No need to use acid when cleaning cell -> Unless you want it clean.
# Fully controller-compatible - ???????
# Advanced electronic temperature compensation -> for cold only
# Up to 72 hour "Super Chlorination" mode -> They don't call it "Shock", it isn't, it won't.
# Seamless operation at all salt levels (3000-35000 PPM) ->Good!
# Corrosion proof Control Center with coated aluminum heat sink ->Corrosion "resistant" plastic and coated aluminum
# Touch sensitive output controls ->"fancy push buttons"
# Plug & play service diagnostics ->The manual does have a trouble-shooting section, but does not mention this.
It looks like a solidly built "KISS" unit designed to just work. No fancy display or multiple settings, no pump control, no interface with an automation system. A more capable, much more expensive Intex, perhaps?
The only improvement I can see is the incorporation of a debris screen at the inlet, like Autopilot and Intex. With the clear Lexan, you could see when it needs to be cleaned, and it would add another (cheap) layer of protection (filtering) for the cell. I am always amazed at what gets past my skimmer sock, pump strainer basket and sand filter to collect in the cell screen!
I'd find out what replacement cells cost. And if you can use a 5000 replacement cell with a 3000 controller (all of the controllers look the same.)
Good Luck, and Best Wishes!
