Any problems running chlorine a bit higher?

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EminiTrader

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Gold Supporter
Mar 20, 2015
67
Jacksonville, FL
As most of you know - this is my 2nd pool using the the TFP method. This pool is only 2 months old (water in it) and this is my first time running a SWG.

My PH tends to climb continuously - every couple of days I have to throw in some MA -. Also I run my pump 6 hours a day as I try to swim year round and I keep it heated above 86 degrees - although it's not that warm now with this weather lately. Anyways - I have the SWG running about 18 percent and everyday my chlorine runs about 7.0 - 8.0 based on my numbers (below) - it is a tad high - but are there any real downsides to this?

Today's numbers: TFT Test

Chlorine: 8.0
Combined: 0
PH 7.7
ALK 90
CYA 50
CH 375

Other than the PH my numbers are about the same every single day - again just every day or so I add some MA -

Thanks!
 
No real problem...just sort of a waste of cell life span any time its in use unnecessarily. If you want to turn it down to and see how that works for you. Or perhaps shorten your run time which would be easier and save electricity too. With the winter sun being so low on the horizon, you're not burning off FC like you do in the summer.

As long as your new pool is still "curing" the pH rise will continue but you have a handle on that it seems.

Got pics?

Maddie :flower:
 
Put the gallons of your pool in your sig. it helps with advice more than the dimensions of your pool.

Your IC40 is oversized. It will last a long time running it at less than 20% 24/7. It is the equivalent of running the cell less than 5 hours a day. Higher FC up to 10 is not a problem.

TA of 50 to 60 is fine. PH rises less rapidly the lower the TA is.

Do you have any water features or spa spillover running?
 
EminiTrader said:
Thanks Yippee!

I will probably turn down the cell to 15 percent and see how it acts. Below 15 it starts to blink some code that I don't remember :) I have a construction thread somwhere but admittedly I have not updated it. I'll send some pics!
Click to expand...

Emini,

I believe that once you go below 20% the lights flash just to let you know you are using the 2 to 10% scale.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
I'm with Maddie. If it were mine, I'd reduce run time to the minimum needed for skimming, heating or filtration, while increasing SWCG % to compensate for the reduced run time. I'd then gradually reduce SWG % until I had no less than 5% FC/CYA (2.5 ppm FC for 50 ppm CYA), and usually around 10% or 5 ppm FC for 50 ppm CYA. Before next spring, I'd raise CYA to 80 ppm and adjust FC accordingly.

But to strictly answer the question, there's no safety issue with FC up to shock level of 20 ppm FC for 50 ppm CYA. It's just not necessary. Some would mention that it could hasten fading of colors in the plaster if kept up at that level indefinitely, but I've never seen any proof of that.
 
Considering all the comments - here's another question. If I lower my pump time and increase my SWG to compensate I am concerned about the heater not having enough time to run. Now it's a tad chilly in Florida but it should warm right up this weekend and I do plan on using the pool over the Christmas season.

Is it better to lower my run time and run it on high so my heater gets "maximum coverage"? or no?

I use screen logic so it's easy to find - Here's my run times
High Speed 12:00 PM - 3:00PM Every Day
Pool normal 10:30AM - 4:00 PM Every Day

Now the water has not been warm this week but we did have a deep freeze down here so it really didnt matter - but I am curious as too how many hours a day to get sufficient heating..

**EDIT: Sorry if I seem a bit scatter-brained - it's early and haven't had coffee yet :) ***
 
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Do you keep the pool covered when not in use? If not (and you lose heat quicker if you don't cover it) then run the SWG on a lower percentage so you can run the heat as much as you need to keep the pool at a comfortable temperature. Any time the heater is not running the heat is radiating out and the pool is cooling off. In colder temps it will cool quicker and have a harder time retaining heat. Running hotter only heats it quicker, it won't stay hot longer.
 
A long as your heat pump runs on low speed, chances are the the pool will heat about the same on low or high pump speed.

Provided the heat pump runs on low speed, I would just set the hours a bit high so the heat pump runs enough to achieve the temp you want. Then dial it back a bit at a time until the time is inadequate, then increase it back up a bit.

A cover will definitely reduce your heating time and cost a great deal.
 
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