Water chemistry + bright clear but green pool after Metal Klear

[sdrilling]

Hello all

We purchased a home (Georgia) with 34,000 gallon gunite/pebbletec pool in October. The pool was cloudy when we took possession and had yellow algea. The pool needed many upgrades which we completed in mid-October including re-plumbing, installing variable speed pump and DE filter.

We engaged a certified pool maintenance company and they started maintenance 10/22. AFter their first cleanup on 10/25 the pool was beautiful. Downhill from there. They added Metal Klear on 11/1 and 11/12. The green tint started after the metal klear.

They are unable to maintain chlorine levels in the pool. In addition to filling our chlorinator they filled both the skimmers to keep up the chlorine. One of their guys want to drain our pool - however our septic drain field is right behind the pool and we have a beautiful 1 acre pond full of fish on the other side.

Today they wanted to add 3 gallons of acid and were not happy when I refused.

Anyone have any idea what might be keeping the chlorine from hanging around or cause the green tint in the very clear pool? The pool is not stained.

Week	10/5	10/25	10/30	11/1	11/6	11/12	11/13	11/20 Pool Guy onsite	11/20 Browns computer
Free Chlorine	1.5	0	0						1.6
Total Chlorine	1.5	0	0	2	0		0	0	3.3
Alkalinity	41	80	90	90	100		90	100	0 Total Alkalinity
CYA	128	50	100+		100				136
Calcium		100	20	300			160
Total Hardness	274								407
PH	7.7	7.4	7.4	7.2	7.3		7.4	7.6	7.2
Copper									0
Note		Treat for yellow algea. Add 6 chlorine tabs + 15 pounds of shock. Pool looked beautiful in 4 days	Add 8 chlorine, 6 lbs of shock and 25 calcium. Pool a bit cloudy had rained 2 days	Added 5 chlorine tabs, 1.5 lbs shock and 3.5 bottles of metal klear	Added 12 chlorine tabs, 5 lbs shock. Pool bright green but clear	Added 3 bottles Metal klear	Added 8 chlorine tabs + 3 lbs of shock. Bright green but clear	Added 10 tabs chlorine + 3 lbs of shock. Bright green but clear. The pool company also wanted to add 3 gallons of acid but I refused.	An hour after regular pool company left I took a water sample to Browns Pool and asked them to run through their computer

 

[Texas Splash]

Hi Stephanie and welcome! Well, I see a few problems, and they can be solved by you taking control of the pool chemistry. First, you probably have signs of algae because those tabs the pool company has been stocking in your pool are continuously adding CYA (stabilizer). Your CYA appears to be well over 100 which requires a very healthy water exchange. That's the only way to lower CYA. Companies use tabs because they only visit once a week or so. Sure, it adds some chlorine, but the stabilizer (CYA) is continuously increasing. Now your FC can't keep up. Just look at this [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] to see what I mean. Your pH numbers aren't bad, so acid would've caused more problems and done nothing to help the green issue.

The other thing is you must test your own water with either a TF-100 (link below) or Taylor K-2006C. I recommend a TF-100 with magnetic speedstir. It made my pool life much easier. Free pool store testing is often flawed, and their main purpose is to sell you over-priced products. Stay clear of those temptations and test your own water. It's easy and more reliable.

Let me ask .. are you on a well? If so, please note that in your signature. Well water often has iron in it which contributes to an awkwardly green tint.

I would also avoid adding any other pool store products to the water. Algaecides and other snake oil products are often not needed and simply add byproducts to the water that make things worse. In summary, we need to see some reliable test results from one of those kits I mentioned. Then we'll know for sure what direction you should go. But I suspect you have algae and perhaps some metal (iron or copper) issues to contend with. With accurate test results, we can help guide you.

Please visit our ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and save/read all those Vital Links below in my signature. Let us know how else we can help.

 

[sdrilling]

Thank you Texas Splash.

We ordered the Taylor 2006C kit last night and hopefully will arrive on Friday. My husband is a drug chemist and should be able to begin testing multiple times per week.

I spent several hours reading through the forum - especially regarding CYA. It sounds like we need to get clorine in the pool but without CYA. Do I understand correctly that liquid bleach as a 6% solution (12 1/2% if we can find it) ?

We could start with 1 gallon per day and begin testing.

There are only two places we can think to look for algea. Behind the light (not sure we want to tackle that) and in the pool skimmers. The skimmers are kinda gross. We are going to order a soft bristle carboy brush to scrub the skimmer.

 

[Texas Splash]

Good morning Stephanie. Yes, your pool needs more free chlorine without the added stabilizer. We typically do that by using regular (plain) bleach. It's basically liquid chlorine - sodium hypochlorite. Make sure the bleach is NOT splashless or contains any scents/fabric softener treatments. Once you know the % on the bottle, you can use the PoolMath to determine the dosage.

I wouldn't get too carried away with the bleach at this point. I suspect your CYA is soooooooo high following long-term use of tabs, that a good water exchange will be needed. CYA degrades a little over the swimming season, but other than that, the best way to lower CYA (and CH for people with hard water) is via water change. While you wait for the K-2006 to arrives, please make sure to save those Vital Links below and become familiar with them. Practice using the PoolMath tool as it will be your pool's best friends - coupled with the K-2006C.

Since we suspect a high CYA, you should also read and be prepared to perform a "diluted" CYA test as noted on the Pool School - CYA page starting at Step #8. That will be step #1 since it makes no sense to add chemicals to water if it's only going to be exchanged. But I would add some bleach for now just to try and keep any potential algae issues from getting worse. You have a large pool, so you could easily add 1-2 gallons per day for now.

After the diluted CYA test, post all of your test results and we'll show you how easy it is to manage your own water. You'll be very happy you did. Have a great Thanksgiving day!

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Hi there Stephanie, nice to have another Georgian in the house!

I'm first curious as to why the pool service felt they needed to add Metal Kleer? Do you fill the pool from a well with known metals in the water?

Next, as you can see from your testing chart the results are all over the place. Yet that makes little sense. The same water was tested the same day at TA of both 100 and zero, so what can be the real TA?!?! THIS is a perfect example of why we promote "owner testing"! Many pool services use fast, quick testing kits that are actually inaccurate or don't read specific enough for our methods. And of course the operator of said poor testing kit can be at fault or have a goal of product sales to explain their test results.

Once you get your own test kit (yay, you're up on that!) you'll see no one cares more about your water quality than the owner whose swimming in that water.

Welcome to TFP

Maddie

 

[kimkats]

3 GALLONS of acid???? What did they think that would do to help clear the water up? We know it would have crashed your pH big time!

Please tell me you have fired the pool service. They seem to be doing more harm than good AND taking your money