Do I need to use these every week?

[Ezun]

First, as a new pool owner, this forum is A M A Z I N G! You guys have me on track and it's super simple to follow. Really appreciate all the time and energy everyone puts in here. I've already shared it with 3 other pool owners (who have had their pools for years) because they asked how the heck I know so much about taking care of my pool already. (this might also indicate that I'm a little obsessive...)

Anyway, to my question:
My PB told me that I need to put in 16oz of Jack's Magic Magenta stuff every week and 16oz of GLB 71104A-04 Algimycin 2000 Algaecide every other week.
They're pretty darn expensive, so I wonder if I need to keep using them if I keep all of my levels correct??

I've been using pool math and all of the other resources on here to make sure I'm within normal ranges:
CF: 4
PH:7.7
TA: 75
CH:325
CYA: 57 (I'm slowly raising this)
Salt: 4400 (they actually put this much in when they started the pool - looking forward to getting it down when I pull some out for the winterization.

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome to TFP!!!

There is certainly no need to be adding algaecide every week. Just keep the FC above the minimum for your CYA according to the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA].

The Jack's is only needed if you suspect you have metal in your fill water. If you don't, then no need for it.

Some of your test results are a little odd if you are using the K-2006C ... TA should be multiple of 10, CYA should be rounded up (60ppm).
Use 10ml of water for the FAS-DPD chlorine test making each drop 0.5ppm. This is precise enough and saves a lot of reagent. Don't forget to do the CC test too.

 

[Ezun]

Jblizzle,
Thank you - this is great. I should get my fill water tested for metal and then I'll be set with Jack's and the Algaecide!

AND, I should have stated that I'm "inferring" some of my results because the colors change 1/2 way between drops, so I use a middle ground. Should I just wait until the full color change and that's my number?

For example, on CH, when I drop in 32 drops it goes from red to purple (the water is blue but the little floaties are red), then when I hit it with drop 33, it goes solid blue. So I was thinking I was between 320 and 330 and wrote it down as 325.
Same with TA. when I put in the 7th drop it goes from green to grey, when I put in the 8th drop it goes to red. So I was thinking I was between 70 and 80, so guessed at 75.

Last but not least, when I do the CC test (which I do about 50% of the time) it comes back at 0.0 or 0.2, it's never been more than 0.2

 

[jblizzle]

All tests (except salt) should be done where you continue to add drops until the final drop causes no further color change, and then no count that last drop. You should not really "interpolate" between drops (although admittedly, I have a tendency to do similar sometimes )

You may have actually needed another drop with the TA.
And for the CH, I never have "floaties" are you swirling enough? The SpeedStir helps a LOT, especially for the CH test.

Also for the CH test, use 10ml of water (then 10 drops, 3 drops, and then count) and each drop is 25ppm, instead of 10ppm. No need to use all that extra reagent when getting withing 25ppm is plenty good enough.

 

[Ezun]

This is great - thank you for all of your time!
The floaties kinda look like some form of clear precipitate that absorb color. It's happening less and less, strangely. I'll try to get a photo of it for you.

 

[Ezun]

Just one more follow up here. I realized I'm not swirling enough, it's making things WAY more consistent.... I may have to go for the SpeedStir just to make it easy.

 

[jblizzle]

The SpeedStir is a fantastic add-on and makes all the tests easier and more consistent.

 

[JasonJoel]

Yup, I LOVE the speed stir! Money well spent as far as I'm concerned!

 

[an1vrsy]

Without the speedstir there is no way I'd be testing as frequently as I do. Sometimes twice a day, depending upon when I dosed any chemicals.

Yeah, it's makes water testing fun. Well, at least, fun for me. I've had to buy more FAS-DPD reagent because I'm crazy and I still use the 25 mil sample size rather than the more efficient 10 mil size. I'm addicted.

 

[Ezun]

Ok, ya’ll have convinced me, Amazon here I come....

 

[trivetman]

I used to get floaties in my CH test also. Looked just like Ezun described. I haven’t seen them as much this summer as last. Any ideas what causes this? I’ve never used the speedstir but I think i’v always given it plenty of swirling.

 

[Ezun]

I used to get floaties in my CH test also. Looked just like Ezun described. I haven’t seen them as much this summer as last. Any ideas what causes this? I’ve never used the speedstir but I think i’v always given it plenty of swirling.

I'm not sure what causes it, but it seems to be in direct correlation to the amount of swirling (although I haven't really tested that theory, I just have a hunch).
I'm excited to get the SpeedStir for a few reasons:
1) the swirling is a pain, yes very minor, but still a pain.
2) I get the sense that consistent swirling/stirring will significantly improve the reliability of my tests (I've seen some variation and not sure why, I'm thinking this is it).
3) Like an1vrsy says - I think it will make testing more 'fun'. I'm already hooked on testing and tracking my results to make sure I understand what the heck is going on.
4) Should make testing faster.

 

[JJoe]

I get the "floaties". They sound like they are related to metal in the water. Here is a link to a thread about it. Calcium Hardness test question
Helped some...but the post about the "floaties" disappearing when solid blue comes sounds right on.

 

[Ezun]

I get the "floaties". They sound like they are related to metal in the water. Here is a link to a thread about it. Calcium Hardness test question
Helped some...but the post about the "floaties" disappearing when solid blue comes sounds right on.

Wow - that post looks EXACTLY like what is going on.... thank you!