The PB turned over chemistry to me

[Flatag]

Since I just had the pool remodeled I’m going to start maintaining my pool with the TFP method. Below are my first test results. I haven’t yet converted to salt.

FC 5.2
PH 8.0
TA 80
CH 180
CYA 35

I’m going to add some MA to lower my PH today. I plan to retest tomorrow before I look at adjusting CH or CYA to make sure I can duplicate the results.

Is is it normal for new plaster to have low CH? Do I need to plus up my CYA?

 

[Rocket J Squirrel]

I'm no expert, but having recently replastered with quartz, I did learn a few things.

If your plaster has a colored base, keep the FC to a minimum until the plaster cures, or you risk bleaching the color.

Your CYA is fine, round up to 40, and your minimum FC is 3.

It is normal, but not desirable, for fresh plaster to have low CH. If CH is too low, the water can pull from the plaster. Add some calcium per Pool Math to establish calcium equilibrium.

Did you get a startup guide from the plaster manufacturer? If so, follow it. My plaster is Wet Edge brand, and their startup guide can be found here if you need some general guidance.

 

[Divin Dave]

How long ago was the plaster replaced? The 1st 30 days are the most critical.

If were you I would bump up the CH to 250. If the CH is too low, the water will try to draw CH from the plaster.
Most plaster people say 150 CH is the minimum it should be during the curing process. You are borderline on that now. There are lots of articales online about plaster curing. One well respected industry plaster expert is OnBalance, a well respected TFP forum member. Google them up for lots of insight to plaster curing.


Next, if the plaster is new, you need to brush the whole pool vigorously every day to get the plaster dust off.

For several months after plaster has been installed, the pH will likely increase quickly until the plaster is fully cured. Expect to add MA regularly to control the pH. Test your pH every day.

 

[Flatag]

To clarify things a bit. The pool company handled the first 30 days and the startup of the pool. Now it’s my turn. Once I get things like I want them I’ll convert over to salt.

 

[Flatag]

Added some MA per pool math on Saturday. Checked chems today.

FC 2.4
PH 7.4
TA 70
CH 180
CYA 40

readings except for FC are pretty consistent so I guess I’m doing the tests correctly. Pool math is telling me to add 24lbs of calcium chloride to get CH to 250. Does this sound right to you experienced TFPers?

 

[ping]

Yes, add 24lbs.

 

[Dirk]

If your plaster has a colored base, keep the FC to a minimum until the plaster cures, or you risk bleaching the color.

Rocket - May I ask where you learned this?

Flatag - In the meantime, get your FC level up. It should NEVER fall below the minimum, which for your pool is 3ppm. The bleaching issue aside, you definitely do not want to have to do a SLAM with new plaster. It's still very warm down your way, yes? Warm water and FC out of range is perfect conditions for an algae outbreak. I treat my target FC as my minimum, to allow myself a buffer between where I keep my FC and the actual minimum. A very hot day, extra swimmers in the water, some errant pee or other animal waste products, etc can push your FC low right quick, and if you're riding the minimum fence line, you could find your pool water way below minimum in a short span of time.

Your FC should be 5, and as close to 5 all the time if you can manage it. If we can't get a consensus here about the bleaching effect of chlorine on your new surface, then call the manufacturer (not the installer) and see what they say about it. You do need to protect your warranty by following the guidelines from the entity that holds and honors your warranty. But unless the manufacturer gives you a specific FC number, I wouldn't let it get anywhere near the minimum.

 

[Rocket J Squirrel]

If your plaster has a colored base, keep the FC to a minimum until the plaster cures, or you risk bleaching the color.

Rocket - May I ask where you learned this?

You may ask, and I may or may not remember. I believe I heard this both verbally from the PB's sales person and via email from a representative of the plaster company.

The Wet Edge plaster start-up guide says "Use as little chlorine as possible to keep the pool from turning green" and "Add only a residual amount of chlorine in your pool during start up – 1 chlorine tab" for the first 7 days, then 1-3 ppm for the next 21 days. It also says CYA should be 30-50 so they are incorporating that into their thinking.

So I may have been over-zealous by saying "until the plaster cures" in my previous post, but it made me careful to keep FC low at startup and I didn't have algae or any other issues. In fact, I ended up switching from a blue colored base to a white base because of all the warnings about bleaching & mottling, and because I sometimes want to use trichlor pucks in a floater, which is a no-no with a colored plaster base.

 

[Dirk]

And I wasn't challenging you, just sometimes these types of warnings take on a life of their own!

You were given what sounds like explicit instructions from your finish's manufacturer. The OP should acquire the same for his product and follow them as you did yours, to protect his warranty and his finish. My concern was to be cautious about an algae outbreak, that would be worse than a slightly higher FC level, 'cause that would then require a SLAM. No bueno.

He's in Florida, and based on those dang inconsiderate Floridians over in the "What's your current pool temp?" thread, all braggin' about their 90°+ water, while you and I are freezin' out here in "sunny" CA, the OP has to keep a close eye on things just now if his water is warm like that...

 

[Flatag]

Dirk, my water is getting freezing cold. It was only 89 degrees yesterday! Dang Fall temps!

My pool plaster has had enough time to cure. It is a white base quartz plaster with some colored quartz. I didn't go with the colored base as I know how brutal the Florida sun can be and I just don't believe the color won't fade.

I did add bleach and some calcium chloride yesterday. I'll retest today or tomorrow and adjust if needed.

 

[Dirk]

Sounds good!