long summer battling my pool

Aug 15, 2018
13
The Woodlands, Tx
Hello,
I think I have been spinning my wheels all summer with my pool. Finally started researching on my own and now aiming to take control. I have been battling algae all summer. Essentially I have been taking water samples in and following the prescribed path, for it to eventually work, slower than they tell me and 2 days later to start to see issues again. My pool consistently is reading 0 chlorine, every once in a while a 1, meanwhile I have been slamming it with Chlorine tabs and shock. (The shock bags supposedly have no stabilizer. ) Anyways, my CYA is high, 90 according to pool store, but they told me this isn't a problem. Now, after reading a lot of posts and info on your site, I'm thinking that CYA is the problem and the fact that I have under shocked it.

As of 8/13, a green pool again with a FC level of 0, CYA of 90 per pool store, I started super-shocking again per recommendation. Got fed up after second round and started using bleach. Now probably have created a mess. Meanwhile I ordered a TF100 and received it last night. Tested water this am, here are the results but uncertain on a few.
pH=7.2
FC=5
CC =5 or 6
TC= 10 or 11
CH=450
TA=110
CYA=70 or 80
* added 2 cups soda ash, 1 gallon of bleach (because I was afraid to add more again) because I have a lot of foaming now after last night.

This pm:
pH=7.5
FC=1
CC=1
TC=2
CH=475
TA=100
CYA=going with 80

So tonight I vacuumed my pool a bit, and started a garden hose siphon to start draining some of the pool. I figure this is slow enough nothing will be hurt. Going to add 3 gallons of bleach because that is all I have left tonight.

Please set me straight!
 
Welcome to the forum! :handshake:

To eradicate algae you need to follow the SLAM Process process. The FC for that is defined in the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] as shock level.

To do a SLAM Process, you need a proper test kit.

I recommend the TF100 test kit as it was designed for residential use and has more of what you will use when testing your residential pool.

The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006-C. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want.

I also have the SpeedStir. It makes testing much easier.

While you are waiting on your test kit add liquid chlorine/bleach to put 5 ppm FC into your pool each evening. Let us know how much water you drain and replace with fresh as the amount of bleach to add each day may change.


I suggest you read Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Trouble Free Pool School book.

You may also want to get the Pool Math app.
 
1 gallon of bleach (because I was afraid to add more again) because I have a lot of foaming now after last night.

What bleach are you using? I hope it is NOT Clorox with Cloromax Technology?

Get your CYA down to 30 if you can through draining.
 
I apologize as I did not see you had received a proper test kit! Good job.

Once you drain off some water and replace with fresh, circulate for a couple hours and let us know your CYA. Then you can get into the SLAM Process.
 
Thank you!

I do have the TF 100 as I noted with the current levels. According to the Pool math I should drain about 37% of the water which is where I am headed, I figure that is about 24" for my pool. Also you suggest following the SLAM method which I intend to, but in reading information on this site I have seen to not worry about that until the water is removed/replaced. What is preferred?

As far as bleach, I have regular Clorox bleach from the grocery store. Will that work?

Also, when you suggest 5 ppm FC each evening, does this mean set 5 as my FC goal in the pool math calculator for right now?
Thank you!!
 
Your Clorox bleach is causing the foaming. It is not recommend to use in pools.
 
Ignore the 5 ppm thing, go to the SLAM Process process.

Clorox, if it has Cloromax (which all the Clorox bleach does I believe) it is not recommended. It has polymers and has been known to foam up the pool.

Get plain bleach, no scents, no splashless, no fabric protection. Or liquid chlorine from Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart, or pool store. I believe HEB has a plain bleach store brand that is still 8.25%.
 
Thank you, thank you!
The bleach doesn't say Cloromax anywhere but it is splashless. Will stop using that and head to Walmart. I will continue draining and then refill. I hope to get back to you all in a couple of days with a much lower CYA!
Thanks, I feel hopeful :)
 

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Hello again. Okay so I am still draining my pool! Have been siphoning with a hose and tonight added a sump pump to speed it up. I am draining it 34" according to the pool calculator. I think I did it right. I took the average pool depth and added that into the calculator aiming for a CYA of 30. I hope to start refilling sometime tomorrow.
Should I do if anything to the bare walls above the remaining water before I start refilling water?
Thank you in advance!
 
No, drain and refill and don’t leave the plaster exposed longer than necessary. You might want to splash water on the exposed plaster and keep it damp.
 
Ah, didn't realize that. Thanks so much!! Then do I wait until it is completely full, circulate a few hours and retest before I start any SLAMMING?

Kelly

Yes, test to get your new CYA level. Use that to determine your shock FC level using [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. Then follow the SLAM Process process.
 
Happy Sunday,

Ok, I drained my pool approx 3/4 and have refilled it as of today, repaired tile, grout and a light bulb while I waited, yeah!
My pool is green, I did add granular chlorine (4 lbs) at the same time I started the circulation; I realize that was rogue perhaps. It has been running 2 hours and I just checked the chemicals.
Here are my numbers.
pH=between 7.8-8.2 (closer to 7.8 in color)
CL=11
CC=1
TC=12
CH=100
TA=150
CYA=20

Please advise where I need to go from here as I don't really understand the pH/TA stuff. Also, I have a ton of CL tablets. Should I use those to get my CYA up since I have them?

Thank you!
Kelly
 
Lower your pH to 7.2 using muriatic acid.

You can use 5 tablets if you wish to raise your CYA by ~10 ppm. Try to get them to dissolve as fast as you can. Or get CYA powder and add enough for 10 ppm CYA via the sock method.

Raise and maintain your FC at 12 ppm. Be sure you are using your FAS-DPD test for FC measurement.

- - - Updated - - -

Correction - if you use the tablets to raise your CYA I would not adjust pH. The tablets will lower your pH enough.
 
Ok thank you. So I put 5 tabs in a sock, pounded it w/ a hammer and in the skimmer w/ the suction now at 50/50 skimmer/main drain. After I dropped them in I double checked my chlorinator and saw a few tabs in there. I have the rate at 3. should I back off of the chlorinator or pull the sock back out? Also should I check chemicals in 1 hour?
 
You can leave them in the chlorinator.

I would not have done that to the tablets and put them in the chlorinator. You are sending acidic water into your equipment.

You may be OK to leave the sock in and turn to full 100% skimmer suction and do not turn off your pump until the trichlor is full dissolved in the sock.

- - - Updated - - -

Probably check your FC and pH this evening or even in the morning. Be sure to leave the pump on 24 hours per day.
 
Ok, I've come to far to mess up now so will pull the sock out and go buy powder CYA. I thought pounding was good but now I know better! There were leftover tabs in the chlorinator that I didn't realize so will see if that is enough to bring the CYA up bit and if not add powder this evening. Sound reasonable. Thanks
 

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