I just installed an IntellipH system into an existing Pentair setup including an Easytouch 8 automation system and Intellichlor IC40 on a pool/spa combo with Intelliflo pump. The first issue is that the IntellipH has a status light of red meaning it won't dispense any acid even with the system up and running. I am able to manually override and get the acid pump to dispense acid. The IC40 is working with all lights green and it is set through Easytouch to 25% for pool and 1% for the spa. The one thing that sticks out is that on the Easytouch it reads salt at 3600 along with pool temperature 85. The IntellipH screen reads salt 3600 along with temperature of --. I am pretty sure the Easytouch is reading the temperature probe that is mounted into the 2 inch pipe. I am guessing that the IntellipH is trying to get a temperature from the IC40. After several calls to Pentair technical support (no one seemed to know much about the IntellipH) I understand that their is a combined flow, salt and temperature probe in the so called "flow switch" on the IC40. They think that the temperature probe on the IC40 may have gone bad with the flow and salt part of the switch still working. Someone must have the answer?? Additionally, when I filled the IntellipH Acid container I discovered a round red plastic threaded rod shaped item floating (approximately 1 inch long and 1/2 inch in diameter) - one Pentair tech guessed it might be a filter that attaches to the end of the siphon tube and another said there was not anything on the end of the tube? It will be almost impossible to get it out of the container.
IntellipH Status Light Red
- Thread starter LantanaTX
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,118
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Welcome to TFP.
Dirk is the user here with an Intelliph. Hopefully he will see this thread.
I assume your IC40 is no longer under warranty. Replacing the flow switch/temp probe is pretty easy. Search on “intellichlor ic40 flow switch replacement”.
Dirk is the user here with an Intelliph. Hopefully he will see this thread.
I assume your IC40 is no longer under warranty. Replacing the flow switch/temp probe is pretty easy. Search on “intellichlor ic40 flow switch replacement”.
Thanks for responding. I look forward to hearing from Dirk.
I did order a new flow switch since I was able to get one for $75.
My IC40 is out of warranty - it is 8 years old (original installed with the pool) and according to the diagnostics it is 60% consummed. I doubt it will last its intended life span since the center plate is starting to erode away and I have had to steadily increase the output %. I figured I can save the flow switch as a backup for my new IC40 which I also ordered.
I am still wondering what the red plastic item is floating in the IntellipH acid tank???
I did order a new flow switch since I was able to get one for $75.
My IC40 is out of warranty - it is 8 years old (original installed with the pool) and according to the diagnostics it is 60% consummed. I doubt it will last its intended life span since the center plate is starting to erode away and I have had to steadily increase the output %. I figured I can save the flow switch as a backup for my new IC40 which I also ordered.
I am still wondering what the red plastic item is floating in the IntellipH acid tank???
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,118
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You should have replaced the IC40 with an IC60 if you can exchange it. Lots more capacity for a few dollars more.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,908
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Looooove my IntellipH! I just left my pool for five days to come home to perfect pH!! (Which is why I didn't respond sooner.)
The tube inside my hopper has a red "thingie" on the end of it. Some sort of filter is a reasonable guess. So that's where your red "thingie" belongs. Looks like you could disassemble the hopper (eight screws) to get at it.
Speaking of guessing...
I don't believe the temperature sender within the IC is available to the ET. It is used by the IC itself, to prevent generation in cold water, and to calculate the salt level. I hadn't noticed that the IpH had a temperature reading, but since the IpH does not communicate with the ET, and therefore wouldn't be able to access temp from there, it's reasonable to assume that it would get its temp reading from the IC. It definitely uses the IC's flow sensor, so surely it's accessing the IC's temp sensor, too. Sounds like you're on your way to the fix for that. I think I read here that if the IC can't access its own temp sensor, it defaults to 70° for calculating salt. What's not clear is what would happen if that sensor failed in the winter. Would the IC try to generate in cold water (since it thinks the water is 70°)? It seems strange that a failed temp sensor would inhibit acid injection but not chlorine production. Who knows.
Glad to hear you got 8 years out of your IC. I'm shooting for 10!
BTW, have you noticed yet? The IpH shuts down the IC when it's dispensing acid. Which I think is cool, even if no one else does!
The tube inside my hopper has a red "thingie" on the end of it. Some sort of filter is a reasonable guess. So that's where your red "thingie" belongs. Looks like you could disassemble the hopper (eight screws) to get at it.
Speaking of guessing...
I don't believe the temperature sender within the IC is available to the ET. It is used by the IC itself, to prevent generation in cold water, and to calculate the salt level. I hadn't noticed that the IpH had a temperature reading, but since the IpH does not communicate with the ET, and therefore wouldn't be able to access temp from there, it's reasonable to assume that it would get its temp reading from the IC. It definitely uses the IC's flow sensor, so surely it's accessing the IC's temp sensor, too. Sounds like you're on your way to the fix for that. I think I read here that if the IC can't access its own temp sensor, it defaults to 70° for calculating salt. What's not clear is what would happen if that sensor failed in the winter. Would the IC try to generate in cold water (since it thinks the water is 70°)? It seems strange that a failed temp sensor would inhibit acid injection but not chlorine production. Who knows.
Glad to hear you got 8 years out of your IC. I'm shooting for 10!
BTW, have you noticed yet? The IpH shuts down the IC when it's dispensing acid. Which I think is cool, even if no one else does!
Thank you ajw22 and Dirk for your replies. I did look at the I60, but the calulated cost difference was essentially the same per unit of capacity so I went with the IC40. I am glad to hear that the red plastic thing goes on the end of the IntellipH (frustrating that 3 different Pentair tech supports couldn't seem to tell me that becuase all they had was the manual and nothing to physically look at). I saw the screws since one of the plastic decorative covers for the screws was missing.
Now for an update on my crazy red status light situation: So as I mentioned I bought a new flow switch (essentially flow/temp/salt) for my old IC40 and installed it. The funky little connectors that have silcone sealant dispensed when you crimp them seemed neat. After replacing the sensor nothing changed on the IntellipH I still had a red status light with a salt reading and NO temperature, just --. I thought the little connectors may be to blame so I decided to cut them off, restrip the wires and use super small wire nuts with the plan to fill them with silcone sealant. After I was sure I had connections for the 4 wires I started everything up again and still had a red status light on the IntellipH along with no temperature.
As mentioned previously, I had a new IC40. At this point, I decided to intall it and see what happened (by the way the new IC40 has the screen reversed compared to my 8 year old IC40??). After installing the new IC40 the IntellipH status light turned green and appears to be working. The crazy thing is that there still was no temperature just --. While I was writing this I went back out and checked the IntellipH screen and it now had a temperature of 86F. Not sure what is going on, but at least everything is working now. Could it be that my old IC40 is too old (installed in fall 2009)and somehow not compatible with the IntellipH?
Now for an update on my crazy red status light situation: So as I mentioned I bought a new flow switch (essentially flow/temp/salt) for my old IC40 and installed it. The funky little connectors that have silcone sealant dispensed when you crimp them seemed neat. After replacing the sensor nothing changed on the IntellipH I still had a red status light with a salt reading and NO temperature, just --. I thought the little connectors may be to blame so I decided to cut them off, restrip the wires and use super small wire nuts with the plan to fill them with silcone sealant. After I was sure I had connections for the 4 wires I started everything up again and still had a red status light on the IntellipH along with no temperature.
As mentioned previously, I had a new IC40. At this point, I decided to intall it and see what happened (by the way the new IC40 has the screen reversed compared to my 8 year old IC40??). After installing the new IC40 the IntellipH status light turned green and appears to be working. The crazy thing is that there still was no temperature just --. While I was writing this I went back out and checked the IntellipH screen and it now had a temperature of 86F. Not sure what is going on, but at least everything is working now. Could it be that my old IC40 is too old (installed in fall 2009)and somehow not compatible with the IntellipH?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,118
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
There is a Version 2 of the cell before November, 2011 and a Version 3 cell after. I don’t know what the differences are.
I just looked at both manuals and the version 2 (before Nov 2011) is the version that I have, which has a "PWR" LED on the display. My replacement, which is version 3 (after Nov 2011) has the display orientation reversed and has the "PWR" LED replaced by "COLD WATER".
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,908
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I'm not up on the versions. I think I have the latest. Sounds like you got it working OK. The latest version, not sure about the older ones, can give you "end-of-life" status. Some combo of button pushes and the LEDs give you an estimate of what's left to your cell. Not sure the 8-year-old version will do that, but it might be worth hooking it up and checking it out. If its plates are done, then save the flow switch and move on. Either way, eight years is pretty darn good.
I knew about the screws because one of my caps popped off, too. I found it in the box.
Another member here and I had done the math on the IC40 vs IC60 a while back and got the same results. They're basically priced "by the pound" so you can't go too wrong with either purchase. The IC60 will last longer, but it costs that much more. I concluded it comes down to a roll of the dice. The IC60 is a very slightly better deal (depending on who you buy it from), but it has to last the entire length of the life of the plates for that to be true. By buying an IC40, you pay a slightly higher "price per pound," but you have slightly better odds that the thing's electronics (and other failure points) will last as long as they need to to get your money's worth out of the plates. Not sure I'm explaining that right, but it's clear in my addled brain.
Compatibility could have been the issue. Who knows. As you discovered, the Pentair tech support staff doesn't know everything about everything. Just the way it goes. Regarding the mysterious "fix" for the temp, that might just have been a cycle thing. The IpH pinging the IC40 every "x" minutes for status. Something like that.
Good work!
I knew about the screws because one of my caps popped off, too. I found it in the box.
Another member here and I had done the math on the IC40 vs IC60 a while back and got the same results. They're basically priced "by the pound" so you can't go too wrong with either purchase. The IC60 will last longer, but it costs that much more. I concluded it comes down to a roll of the dice. The IC60 is a very slightly better deal (depending on who you buy it from), but it has to last the entire length of the life of the plates for that to be true. By buying an IC40, you pay a slightly higher "price per pound," but you have slightly better odds that the thing's electronics (and other failure points) will last as long as they need to to get your money's worth out of the plates. Not sure I'm explaining that right, but it's clear in my addled brain.
Compatibility could have been the issue. Who knows. As you discovered, the Pentair tech support staff doesn't know everything about everything. Just the way it goes. Regarding the mysterious "fix" for the temp, that might just have been a cycle thing. The IpH pinging the IC40 every "x" minutes for status. Something like that.
Good work!
My old version 2.01 cell was manufactured 09/15/09 and it said it was 60% consumed or had 40% of its life left. The center plate was 50% dissolved and the adjacent plates had started to corrode on the ends with a substance that was not calcium (it looked like calcium, but it remained even after an acid wash). The IC40 worked for over 8 years so no complaints that I had to toss it so my IntellipH would work. I did pull the new flow switch in case I ever need one in the future.
The funny thing is that when I hooked up the new IC40 the IntellipH status light immediately turned green even when the IC40 was still assessing the salt concentration?? You are correct that the IntellipH was pinging the IC40.
Lastly, I removed the 8 large screws and retrieved the red filter that was floating in the acid. When I tried to push it onto the bottom of the black suction straw it just wanted to slide back off because it had cracked (no doubt that is why it probably fell off during shipment). I attached a picture of the cracked red filter. Again thank you Dirk and Allen. Trouble Free Pool and its members were really a help.
The funny thing is that when I hooked up the new IC40 the IntellipH status light immediately turned green even when the IC40 was still assessing the salt concentration?? You are correct that the IntellipH was pinging the IC40.
Lastly, I removed the 8 large screws and retrieved the red filter that was floating in the acid. When I tried to push it onto the bottom of the black suction straw it just wanted to slide back off because it had cracked (no doubt that is why it probably fell off during shipment). I attached a picture of the cracked red filter. Again thank you Dirk and Allen. Trouble Free Pool and its members were really a help.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,908
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Did that red thing appear to be some sort of filter? Or what? You could pursue a new one from Pentair, or maybe zip-tie it on, if it is serving some purpose...
You describe the center plate dissolved: are you talking about the coating, or the whole thing is eaten away?
You describe the center plate dissolved: are you talking about the coating, or the whole thing is eaten away?
The center plate is literally dissolving and the adjacent are losing their coating hence the non calcium build up at the ends. I attached a picture.
- - - Updated - - -
If you look really close at the red thing it is indeed a filter. it is essentially a larger industrial version of the same ones that you will find before the heads on your home irrigation system. What I thought were threads are actually just the waffle weave of the filter.
- - - Updated - - -
If you look really close at the red thing it is indeed a filter. it is essentially a larger industrial version of the same ones that you will find before the heads on your home irrigation system. What I thought were threads are actually just the waffle weave of the filter.
I had the red thing in my Intelliph, too. I just ignored it. The Intelliph is working fine, so I’m not going to disassemble the tank to retrieve it. Hopefully that doesn’t come back to haunt me...
I work in the medical field and the IntellipH essentially has a peristalic pump that shouldn't be affected by small particles. I agree that the filter is probably a good idea to prevent the straw/tube from being clogged by a big chunk of junk, but if you aren't somehow adding large particulates into the acid tank you shouldn't have any problems. I sent a text to someone that I know who works for the top Pentair warranty company in my area. He was able to get me a used IC40 plastic cover (original destroyed by hail) for which there is no Pentair part number or replacement available. Getting a used IntellipH red plastic filter might be a tall order since I am guessing there are not that many sold. I will let you know if I am able to source a replacement or an alternative fix.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,908
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The peristaltic pump is probably OK with a little grit. Don't forget about the injector, though. I think there's a duck bill in there, and if that got jammed open then you'd get pressurized water backing up into the IpH, which could cause some problems I expect. Just as having it clogged shut would. The filter seems like a good idea, though a lot of trouble for such a little thing, for sure...