HELP! Thought things were going well....

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Petersenico

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Aug 13, 2018
13
Bedford, NH
Hello! New pool/home owner. Have worked hard to get up to speed and thought season was going well but I now realize our pool needs major adjustments to chemistry. Pool has been crystal clear so I thought that was a good indication of all going well.

My CYA has started to climb and I’m realizing I’m not keeping chlorine at appropriate levels for the higher CYA. I also need to switch to liquid chlorine to stop the CYA from increasing. My CC is also high. Im working on going through the articles to get this corrected.

My questions:

- everything has warning labels saying to keep chlorine levels below 4 ppm. But the articles on here say it should be much much higher. That is safe??

- my kids keep getting swimmer’s ear. Is that bc my CC is too high and even though the water is clear it’s actually gross? Ugh it’s making me sick just typing that.

Thank you for any help you’re able to offer.
 
Hi there Peter, welcome to TFP!

If you've been using pucks that's what is putting your CYA into the stratosphere. It may also be lowering your pH level too much to be good for your pool finish. These are two things that aren't good for your pool yet the water still looks clear.
Read this--> ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

How are you testing your water?? We are very particular about our test kits. Tftestkits.net is where I get my TF-100, it was made up to match the way this method of pool care tests.

Manufacturers don't recognize that CYA builds up to levels that require you to have more than 4ppm of FC at times. They're coming around more, but this issue is one that causes folks to find us here at TFP time and time again. They've been led down a crazy chemical path by pool stores who don't do as we do for pool care.

The swimmers ear can be caused by bacteria, fungus, or just water that gets caught behind wax in the ear canal. It is quite painful! One recommendation is to make up acidified alcohol and use those drops each day after swimming, showering or such. Equal parts white vinegar and rubbing alcohol in a drop container and use 1-2 drops in each ear. The alcohol dries the water, and the vinegar makes the area less hospitable to fungus and the like.

Maddie :flower:
 
Peter,

Welcome to TFP... a great place to find the answers to all of your pool maintenance questions, no matter which "Bedford" you live in... :shark:

Yes, FC levels above 4 ppm are quite safe because the CYA buffers the effect of chlorine. It is safe to swim as long at the FC level is less than the "Shock" level in this chart.. [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]

I doubt the your kids swimmer's ear issue have anything to do with the sanitization of your pool water..

But, without data we are just guessing... if you want our help in keeping your pool clear, you will need to provide us with accurate test data... High or Low is not a number. :p

How are you currently testing your pool water, and what are the following readings??

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.
 
Thank you! My name is actually Nicole but I do see where the Peter came from :) Thanks for alleviating my guilt re the swimmers ear! I had been using test strips and also a pool master 22260 drop test as backup but I now know that’s not a good option. The K-2006 kit I just ordered won’t be arriving until Friday. What should I do in the meantime? I assume take the sticks out of the skimmer and add a gallon of bleach a day? Or should I just stay as I have been until I get the new test kit? Would numbers from the poolmaster kit be useless?

pool is about 24,000 gallons, in ground and outdoors, vinyl liner, chlorine pool
 
Welcome to the forum! :handshake:

Does the Poolmaster kit have a way of testing CYA? If so, use that number to get a FC you need from the chart Jim referenced.

If you do not have a CYA number, then I would suggest adding 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine each evening into the pool until you get your test kit.

Use Pool Math to determine amounts.

Take care.
 
Thank you. I’m truly confused by this newly discovered CYA issue. Is this the most common pool issue (high CYA??). Doesn’t almost every pool owner have this issue since most pool owners use sticks or pucks?? It’s unavoidable if so isn’t it?
 
Welcome to TFP...

Follow the advise given and not pool store and having your own test kit will be a very good thing!
 
Ok thank you! I will check if my current test checks CYA tomorrow.

How accurate should i be for gallonage? 24,000 was the estimate provided to me by the company who opened the pool for us. Should I get a measuring stick and do a more accurate measure?

also when you say salt water generator, that’s the same thing as converting to salt water, right (I know that’s not an accurate way to say it but it’s how our neighbors who have done it describe it)? I just want to confirm it’s the same thing.

When i I have more info, even if it’s not until Friday, is it best to report back on this thread or start a new one once I have the complete picture?

thank you!
 
Keep things in this thread.

A SWCG is a 'saltwater' pool. I have one. Lots of us do. By far the easiest, most stress free way of chlorinating a pool.

Keep your 24000 gallon volume. When you get your K2006 it can be determined more closely from test results.

Did you get the little K2006 or the K2006C? If the little one, you may need FAS-DPD refills very soon. That is why we recommend the TF100 from TFTestkits.net as it is designed for the residential pool owner.
 

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Ok I cancelled the k2006 and ordered the tf-100. Might take even longer to come though.

- - - Updated - - -

Can you tell me a little more about the process of a saltwater pool and why it’s easier and more stress free? We have considered converting but need to weigh the expense vs benefits.
 
Nicole,

A salt water pool generates the chlorine for you without having to add anything to the water. Initially, you just have to add some bags of salt to get to a certain salt level (usually between 2800-3400). The SWCG (salt water chlorine generator) uses the salt and converts it to chlorine. The SWG can be run at varying output percentages depending on how much chlorine you need to replace daily. It works in tandem with your pool pump (pump must be on). You basically just adjust the output percentage and the pump run time until you are able to replace the amount of FC that you lose daily. It takes a few days to dial it in initially, but after that, it's pretty much smooth sailing.

When sizing a SWG, we generally recommend to buy one that is rated for double the size (gallons) of your pool. The ratings are based on running the generator at 100% capacity for 24 hours a day, which could get very expensive if you don't have a variable speed pump. By oversizing the SWG, you will put less wear and tear on the unit and it will last longer. They generally last 5 to 7 years depending on wear and tear. The only drawback is you have to foot the total expense upfront for the generator. They run anywhere from $800 to $1000 or even more for bigger ones. Over the long haul, it's basically a draw in terms of cost of the generator vs. buying liquid chlorine and adding it manually. The benefit is you don't have to haul all those gallons of liquid chlorine from the store and you don't have to add anything to the pool for chlorination. You just have to monitor the FC periodically to make sure everything is kosher.

SWCG's and liquid chlorine (bleach) are the only forms of adding chlorine to your pool without increasing your CYA levels. That is why they are the only two recommended ways to sanitize your pool by this site. Long term chlorination with solid forms of chlorine (tablets, powdered shocks, and granules) is unsustainable. Eventually it will lead to high CYA levels and require a drain and refill.

By using either a SWCG or liquid chlorine, you don't affect the CYA at all. It will stay the same. Then you just keep your FC in line according to the FC/CYA chart. That will insure that you don't ever get algae. It's really the best approach.
 
DeanP66 said:
Nicole,

A salt water pool generates the chlorine for you without having to add anything to the water. Initially, you just have to add some bags of salt to get to a certain salt level (usually between 2800-3400). The SWCG (salt water chlorine generator) uses the salt and converts it to chlorine. The SWG can be run at varying output percentages depending on how much chlorine you need to replace daily. It works in tandem with your pool pump (pump must be on). You basically just adjust the output percentage and the pump run time until you are able to replace the amount of FC that you lose daily. It takes a few days to dial it in initially, but after that, it's pretty much smooth sailing.

When sizing a SWG, we generally recommend to buy one that is rated for double the size (gallons) of your pool. The ratings are based on running the generator at 100% capacity for 24 hours a day, which could get very expensive if you don't have a variable speed pump. By oversizing the SWG, you will put less wear and tear on the unit and it will last longer. They generally last 5 to 7 years depending on wear and tear. The only drawback is you have to foot the total expense upfront for the generator. They run anywhere from $800 to $1000 or even more for bigger ones. Over the long haul, it's basically a draw in terms of cost of the generator vs. buying liquid chlorine and adding it manually. The benefit is you don't have to haul all those gallons of liquid chlorine from the store and you don't have to add anything to the pool for chlorination. You just have to monitor the FC periodically to make sure everything is kosher.

SWCG's and liquid chlorine (bleach) are the only forms of adding chlorine to your pool without increasing your CYA levels. That is why they are the only two recommended ways to sanitize your pool by this site. Long term chlorination with solid forms of chlorine (tablets, powdered shocks, and granules) is unsustainable. Eventually it will lead to high CYA levels and require a drain and refill.

By using either a SWCG or liquid chlorine, you don't affect the CYA at all. It will stay the same. Then you just keep your FC in line according to the FC/CYA chart. That will insure that you don't ever get algae. It's really the best approach.
Click to expand...


Thank you you so very much for this excellent explanation. Much appreciated. You’ve pretty much just sold me on a swcg. I have 3 kids 3 and under and I manage the pool. I cannot see myself lugging and dealing with all that liquid chlorine on a regular basis. We are often away most weekends in the summer and our heavy pool usage has been during the week so I need a way to manage it when we are away a few days at a time as well. Going to make some calls today. Thank you thank you.

one more question though - what happens at the end of 5-7 years, it’s the 800-1000 cost again typically? Or you don’t have to replace the general just a different part? THANK YOU!
 
On the SWCG cost, type, etc, it all depends on your pool specs. In an earlier post I asked you to fill out a signature. Can you do that? That information will help us provide guidance to you on what type, size, etc SWCG to consider.

If your FC falls below minimum based on your CYA using the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]; your pool water can become unsanitary. Our biggest concern is person to person transfer of viruses, bacteria, etc. So it is important to keep your FC above the minimum value shown.
 
As a newbie myself, I can't offer much advice, but let me assure you, Nicole, that you have found the right place! Your story is very similar to mine. To make a long story short, my pool opened about August of last year and I tested at and listened to the pool store. I used the trichlor pucks and dichlor shock weekly at their recommendation. Well, my CYA went way up--to 120--and I woke up the middle of this July to a cloudy pool because I did not keep my FC high enough based upon my CYA. (yes the reason I found this site). I went back to the pool store, they said my CYA was not a problem, and sold me a bunch of stuff that didn't help. In a panic, I found this site. I ordered the TF 100 test kit (I would highly recommend the speed stir) took my own tests, posted them and listened to these guys. I drained my pool to lower my CYA, followed the SLAM process to a tee, and now my water is chrystal clear. It has never looked so good. I still test every day, and when I open my automatic cover I still get nervous that I will see cloudy water, but my water is beautiful. I especially can't believe how great it looks at night with the light on. I did add the SWCG, which I would recommend.

So all I can say, is listen to these guys. You will feel so much better understanding pool chemistry and taking control of your own pool.
 

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