Outbreak or normal issue after high bather load and storms

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iain42

iain42

0
Oct 16, 2016
367
Little Rock AR
High bather load from Friday to Sunday.
Thunderstorms Sunday night so rain, leaves, and branches in the pool.
Scooped out most debris Monday morning got the rest out Monday afternoon and vaccumed.
While vacumming noticed pool getting a little cloudy and surface slick in places with grey on fingers.
Brushed pool which I haven't been as regular about doing. Two weeks since last brushing.

FC 5.0
CC 0
CYA 40-45
PH 7.6
TA 60
CH can't get a reading not even with new chemicals
Water temp 86-92

I haven't let FC dip below minimum after looking at my logs. Does it sound like algea is growing? My pool is grey plaster so I was hoping it was from that.... This is the first time my pool has not been crystal clear this year so I am worried. I can see the bottom but it isn't as clear.

Any advice appreciated.

- - - Updated - - -

Just in case I boosted chlorine levels this evening. Will measure again in the morning.
 
My gut says you're fine. Swimmers can trash an immaculate pool in a couple hours and you had three days of it.

You've done all you can -- brushed and vacuumed and raised FC.

For future reference: most of us boost the FC a couple ppm before a swim party and again after. I woulda dumped an extyra half gallon in the last three nights at least.
 
Your test results you stated you could not get a CH reading. With a plaster pool that is a value that is significant. Why can you not get a reading?
 
Richard320 said:
My gut says you're fine. Swimmers can trash an immaculate pool in a couple hours and you had three days of it.

You've done all you can -- brushed and vacuumed and raised FC.

For future reference: most of us boost the FC a couple ppm before a swim party and again after. I woulda dumped an extyra half gallon in the last three nights at least.
Click to expand...

I will do this from now on. The pool was more clear this morning. Raised FC this morning as well to be on safe side.




Dirk said:
Preemptive measures necessary when dirty humanoid attack is eminent!!
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I was also in and out of the pool while landscaping. I could have mucked it up myself certainly didn't help. I do spray off in between bit still pretty funky.




mknauss said:
Your test results you stated you could not get a CH reading. With a plaster pool that is a value that is significant. Why can you not get a reading?
Click to expand...

CH is the one test I have had the most problems with since day 1. I bought a new 10 and 11L local store did not have the 12. The closest I've gotten is the water turned an ever so slight shade of pink and 21 drops got it very slight shade of blue. It is hard to tell when it turns. It isn't pink/red like the videos online. I've even thought of caving and taking it to leslie's for a test *sigh*......

10 Lot# D2050 EXP05-20
11L Lot# 2048B
12 Lot# E3070 EXP08-19
 
I've struggled with my CH test, too. Still do, actually. Marty can check my methods. (I'm using Taylor reagents. Are your numbers Taylor numbers?)

I put in the first drops and get a good pinkish-red color. Then start titrating to get the blue. It goes purple first, for a good number of drops, then finally gets to blue. But I've found the blue develops slowly, so when I get towards the end of the "purple phase," which I've gotten a sense about after doing this test enough times, I slow down between drops and let the color develop. Once it gets purpley-blue, I really slow down, then add the last few drops until the very last two drops give me the same blue. I subtract the last drop to get my result. I might wait up to 15 seconds or more between those last drops.
 
mknauss said:
Speedstir is a must for testing at high CH levels.

Is your fill water high CH? Try testing it to see if you get a better result.

If testing high CH try watching Calcium Hardness Test Interference - YouTube
Click to expand...

I need a speedstir...

Tap water
CH turned again very light shade of pink lighter than the pool. 7 drops and it went extremely light shade of blue. Is this considered high?

When I first started it would just go purplish now I jut get very light shade of pink.

I'll try interference test when I get home..
 
iain42 said:
CYA 40-45
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Fyi, you cant eyeball a CYA value of 45. The CYA tube markings are logarithmic not linear. You always round up to the next line. So you have a CYA of 50. It makes a difference in your minimum and target FC levels [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
 

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ajw22 said:
Fyi, you cant eyeball a CYA value of 45. The CYA tube markings are logarithmic not linear. You always round up to the next line. So you have a CYA of 50. It makes a difference in your minimum and target FC levels [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
Click to expand...

Ahh comprende.... Thanks! Making the change to my pool math app now.


mknauss said:
Try using an additional drop of R-0011L
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I read where that was recommended in another thread and have tried it. Similar result.
 
How old is the reagent? That one does go bad.

"R-0011L is calcium indicator, an organic dye used to provide the red/blue color. It should be a deep blue color. If the dye stains the plastic bottle it is stored in, it has gone bad."
 
mknauss said:
How old is the reagent? That one does go bad.

"R-0011L is calcium indicator, an organic dye used to provide the red/blue color. It should be a deep blue color. If the dye stains the plastic bottle it is stored in, it has gone bad."
Click to expand...

I suppose I could have two bad bottles of reagent. It is hard to squeeze the drops out. Had to clean the tip with a toothpick.

Is there a way to figure out date by lot numbers??
10 Lot# D2050 EXP05-20
11L Lot# 2048B
12 Lot# E3070 EXP08-19
 
EXP05-20 = Expires May 2020, etc.

The tip is calibrated to release a very precise size drop. Needing to clean it is bad. Poking it with a stick, like a bear, is also bad, if you altered the size of the hole in anyway...

The tips are removable. Replace the one you poked with the one you didn't (if that second one is not gummed up, too).

Not to steer you away from the most excellent TFP advice, but Taylor has excellent support, too. I spoke at length once with their head support guy and he was very helpful. Just sayin'... that is another resource for you...

From Taylor's website, expiration dates are not the whole story:

[h=1]Reagent Shelf Life[/h]All reagents have a shelf life, whether they are liquids, powders, crystals, tablets, or test-strip pads. If kept dry, powders and crystals are very stable; acids are also long-lived. Date of manufacture is not the controlling factor when it comes to shelf life—storage conditions are more important. As with all perishables, reagents are sensitive to environmental influences and will last longer under controlled conditions.
To this end, we recommend:

  • Storing reagents at a consistent temperature in the range of 36°F–85°F (2°C–29°C); extreme temperature fluctuation, say from a refrigerator to a hot car trunk, causes reagents to deteriorate.
  • Keeping them out of prolonged direct sunlight. (Note: Brown plastic bottles help protect very light-sensitive reagents.)
  • Segregating reagents from containers of treatment chemicals.
  • Replacing caps immediately and tightening them carefully so exposure to air and humidity is limited.
  • Avoiding switching bottle caps, placing bottle caps on soiled surfaces, repouring reagents into contaminated containers, or touching test strip pads.
Taylor formulates its reagents to remain effective for at least one year, with only very few exceptions (molybdenum indicator in liquid form is one; after four months old it should be tested against a standard periodically). As a general precaution, replace all reagents more than one year old, or at the beginning of a new testing season.
For all of these reasons we advise users to carefully consider the container size when purchasing reagents. Larger bottles may appear to be the better value, but if you do not use them in a year’s time you may end up discarding reagent or risk exceeding the reagent’s useful life. Taylor’s dropper tips dispense 25 drops per milliliter. That means many tests requiring 5 drops of reagent per test will get 110 tests out of a .75 oz. bottle, or 300 tests out of a 2 oz. bottle. Homeowners should consider purchasing .75 oz. reagent bottles, while service professionals should probably be using 2 oz. bottles. Repouring from larger bottles (pints, quarts, or gallons) should be reserved for service companies with multiple technicians and retail stores doing high-volume testing. When repouring, it is best practice to replace the reagent’s dropper tip after approximately 8 refills.
Click to expand...
 
Dirk said:
EXP05-20 = Expires May 2020, etc.

The tip is calibrated to release a very precise size drop. Needing to clean it is bad. Poking it with a stick, like a bear, is also bad, if you altered the size of the hole in anyway...

The tips are removable. Replace the one you poked with the one you didn't (if that second one is not gummed up, too).

Not to steer you away from the most excellent TFP advice, but Taylor has excellent support, too. I spoke at length once with their head support guy and he was very helpful. Just sayin'... that is another resource for you...

From Taylor's website, expiration dates are not the whole story:
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice.

I will swap tips this afternoon. I have to squeeze the cr@p out of either one to get it to drop out of either container.
 
iain42 said:
I have to squeeze the cr@p out of either one to get it to drop out of either container.
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That is not normal. It's a very light, very controllable squeeze, for all reagents. Not sure what's going on there. Maybe someone else has had that experience? Did you buy them at the same time? From the same place? A bad, or mis-stored batch perhaps? Weird.
 
Dirk said:
That is not normal. It's a very light, very controllable squeeze, for all reagents. Not sure what's going on there. Maybe someone else has had that experience? Did you buy them at the same time? From the same place? A bad, or mis-stored batch perhaps? Weird.
Click to expand...

I think I'll order another one from Taylor. I picked them up at leslies one came with the kit and the other from their contractor supply.
 

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