Forever Cloudy Pool

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vegaspool112

0
Jun 5, 2018
17
Las Vegas
I have been slamming for over 2 weeks --- I have bought the correct FAS-DPD KITS.

Last Thursday I had a CYA of 80 ---- i tested last night and my CYA was around 50 ppm

This morning my FC was 15ppm - my PH was over 8ppm -- I did the Overnight FC Loss test (OCLT) -- it was both 15ppm last night when I tested and this morning. So, Zero Loss.

But My Water is still cloudy, at the shallow end 3 1/2 feet, I can see ONLY as far as my 2nd step, I can't see my 3rd step or the bottom of my pool. I have been slamming for a while now, and I don't see noticeable improvement in the cloudiness.

Questions:

1) After slamming, what does the FC need to go down to - to be able to accurately test PH ?

2) Is it normal / common to pass the Overnight FC Loss test (OCLT) before the water stops being cloudy ? - does passing the Overnight FC Loss test (OCLT) happen before water returning to crystal clear ??

3) I"m at a loss at what to do.... I'm thinking to try Leslie's ClearAid ....

Thanks in advance..
 
After SLAMing, you FC should go down to the target level based on your CYA. See here.

It is possible to pass the FC lost test, but you have to meet the other criteria too; your CC must be 0.5 or below and your water should by crystal clear. You should wait until your pool is clear before you reform the OCLT.

You have to keep SLAMing your pool. With a CYA of 50, you should bring your FC to the shock level of 20 and maintain it there. Use PoolMath to determine how much chlorine you’ll need to reach shock level. Maintain your shock level at all time during the SLAM process. At the start of SLAM, chlorine may decrease rapidly as algae is being killed off, so test for FC every couple of hours (if you can or if you're at work...morning, lunch time, evening). Again, maintain the shock level by adding the correct amount of chlorine (PoolMath) when necessary. As algae is being killed off, chlorine (FC) will deplete slower and you’ll not need to test so often. Again, do your best to maintain the proper SLAM "FC" level based on your current CYA FC/CYA. Continue vacuuming and brushing pool each day while in SLAM mood. The more often you test and brush, the faster it will go. Backwash your filter when it hits 20-25% higher than the clean filter pressure. Again, once pool is clear, its time to perform the following. Here’s the link: Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)

Oh! make sure your pump is running 24hours a day during SLAM.
 
Stay out of the pool store! :gone: Magic potions will only clear one thing - your wallet. Chlorine is the #1 sanitizer for one reason - it works. BUT, it must be balanced to the correct CYA as noted on the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. You posted above your CYA dropping from 80 to 50. That doesn't happen unless you either exchanged a huge amount of water, or one of those tests were not accurate. SO I would test the CYA carefully one more time, and get the help of another set of eyes to check as follows:
CYA Testing:
Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Taylor recommends standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body. Use the mixing bottle to combine/gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Then, while holding the skinny tube with the black dot at waist level, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. If it helps, pour a little, look away, then look back and pour some more. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. After the first test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate the CYA reading. If you are still questioning your own results, have a friend or two do the same test 2-3 times. Share your results only after everyone is done to see if you came up with the same average results.
Click to expand...

I suspect having an accurate CYA is key right now to ensure you are at the proper SLAM/shock level.
 
I will re-check the CYA a few times to be certain....

Here is another question I had ---->

I am assuming that the goal of SLAMing is to expose the ( "organics'' - algae ) - to a constant prolonged FC Shock level at which they become destroyed.

Lets assume that based on my current CYA 80 - I need a FC shock level of 31ppm.

If I am not worried about ruining the plaster or equipment ( i'm renting the house ) - and IF i were to dump even more LC than recommended even raising my FC Shock level double to what I need 62ppm instead of 31ppm recommended - would the extra LC in my pool act as a buffer against the sun in keeping the overall FC Shock level above the recommended 31ppm for LONGER period of time ? - This way I would save myself the hassle of constantly having to go out and dump the LC into the pool ?

If there is always chlorine burn-off during the day, then why not dump in much more LC and let it preserve the FC Shock level for a longer duration ?​


 
As you get higher than the target level FC your burnoff due to UV is exponentially greater. So at much greater than shock level FC that chlorine has nearly no protection for UV and the half life is in minutes.

It also is incredibly harsh on any pool equipment.

But, try it if you like.
 
Around the 2nd or 3rd week of a slam is when I start to suspect a filter problem but we need more info.
What was the condition of the water when you started?
Have you been running the filter 24/7?
Have you taken the filter apart, washed & inspected the cartridges?
 
Just tested a few times and made my wife re-tested my test -- CYA is 35
CC = ZERO
FC = 7 ppm

Water is still cloudy -- according to CYA chart I need to maintain a FC Shock level of 16ppm and Pool Calculator tells me to add 81 oz of 10% chlorine

FCGoal: Not Setup
Add 81 oz of 10 % trade bleach. Jug size 96 oz 128 oz 174 oz 182 oz 30 oz 64 oz 121 oz .
or add 24oz by weight or 23oz by volume of trichlor dichlor cal-hypo 48% cal-hypo 53% cal-hypo 65% cal-hypo 73% lithium-hypo chlorine gas .
Note: Dichlor and trichlor add CYA and lower pH. Cal-hypo adds CH.

I have KemTek Chlorinating Luqid from Walmart
Sodium Hypochlrite 10%
Other Ingredient 90%

Is what I have considered 10% Bleach or is this considered lithium-hypo ?

Just want to make sure I"m adding the correct amount of the correct chlorine type...
 

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Mike1162 said:
What was the filter pressure when the cartridges were new & what's the pressure now?
Click to expand...


Thats a very good question... My pressure guage on top of the pump / filter cover is busted -- not giving me any reading.

However, I do feel my skimmer pulling nice suction, and I also have very good pull on the vaccum port on the wall of the pool. And my Fountain is strong and so are my return jets...

Could you explain a little about the role of Filter pressure ?

Please advise,
 
Regarding filter pressure:

It is my understanding that the pressure is read between the pump and the actual filter. Therefore, the pressure will rise as your cartridges become clogged (dirty from doing it's job). So, a working gauge is pretty much essential to knowing what's going on with your filter. The base line for your filter pressure should be read after cleaning and then cleaned when it rises approximately 25% above that.
 
Ok, as of last night my water was still cloudy even though i didn't have any CC and I passed the OCLT.

I was going to keep SLAMing and bring the FC to Shock level, but I forgot to do it last night..

BUT..... I see that the water has started to clear up a little, I am not able to see my 3 pool step which I was not for a long time. Any explanation for this ? Is it possible the pool had too much FC and now that its going down, visibility is returning ??

Any theories ?
 
Maintain shock level FC until the water is clear.

Be sure to clean your filter when your pressure rises 25% above clean pressure. The cloudy water is particulates that the filter must clear.
 
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