I have tried slammig my pool for days and I still can not get the algea to disapate. I have super chlorinated the pool for days, vacumed the best I can and scrubed the walls every day with no results. I am getting frustrated and about to give up. The pool is still green and I believe that I have mustard algea as well. Please help!
Algea will not go away.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
- Thread starter danamckisson
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,634
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Test results?
In your other thread you were recommended to get a proper test kit and to follow the SLAM Process process.
Have you?
In your other thread you were recommended to get a proper test kit and to follow the SLAM Process process.
Have you?
Actually I have not. I just have a simple test kit. I have spent so much on liquid chlorine that I just have not purchased one yet.
My PH and alkalinity are within parameters but my stabilizer is low and my free chlorine is >20
Well, there’s your problem then.... that $$ spent on wasted chlorine could have gone toward the test kit. And you wouldn’t have gotten frustrated. Any further delay is just wasting more time and $$$. I haven’t heard of anyone who regretted getting the TF-100 test kit and following the SLAM process. The only regret was they waited too long to make that decision.
The only method we teach is TFPC.
If you decide to follow what we suggest, you will have to SLAM your pool. You cannot SLAM your pool until you get a test kit that has an FAS/DPD chlorine test.
Stop spending and start learning. We'll help you get the pool clear but it ALL starts with a test kit that will allow you to complete the SLAM process
Please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School, then read the SLAM article. We'll coach you and guide you but you have to make the commitment to succeed.
If you decide to follow what we suggest, you will have to SLAM your pool. You cannot SLAM your pool until you get a test kit that has an FAS/DPD chlorine test.
Stop spending and start learning. We'll help you get the pool clear but it ALL starts with a test kit that will allow you to complete the SLAM process
Please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School, then read the SLAM article. We'll coach you and guide you but you have to make the commitment to succeed.
Would this kit suffice for this season? I have spend a whole lot of money so far this season:
[h=1]TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-2006 TEST KIT COMP CHLORINE FAS-DPD[/h]
[h=1]TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-2006 TEST KIT COMP CHLORINE FAS-DPD[/h]
The K-2006 doesn’t have much of the drops you need. At least get the K-2006C. I prefer the TF-100 from TFTestkits.net since it has a better bottle sizes for what you will need.
Not quite as good of a value as the TF-100 and the TF-100 will ship next day from Creedmoor....virtually around the corner from you. You may be able to pick it up tomorrow.
tftestkits.net
tftestkits.net
okay. Please do not think that I am cheap and / or unappreciative because that is not the case at all but will the will the K-2006C suffice?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,634
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Actually it is $22 cheaper. TFTestkits.net was $70.00 and the shipping and the K-2006C was 57 and free shipping. And I can have it tomorrow with Prime. I really would like to solve this algea issue and I sincerly appreciate all of this input. Once I have the test kit is it difficult to navigate or is it user freiendly?
Is there anything I can do when I get home to help matters along?
- - - Updated - - -
Would it be best to just drain the pool and sanitize it and refill?
Is there anything I can do when I get home to help matters along?
- - - Updated - - -
Would it be best to just drain the pool and sanitize it and refill?
Curious where you found that price (it's VERY good) and that "prime" tomorrow delivery
- May 3, 2014
- 58,634
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
That is not the K2006C. That is the K2006. You will have few tests that you use the most.
Take care.
- - - Updated - - -
Draining is a way to accelerate the process. With an above ground pool you must leave at least 12" or more water in it or you may destroy the liner.
Take care.
- - - Updated - - -
Draining is a way to accelerate the process. With an above ground pool you must leave at least 12" or more water in it or you may destroy the liner.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,634
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Screenshot: â¨Amazon.com : TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-2006 TEST KIT COMP CHLORINE FAS-DPD : Swimming Pool Liquid Test Kits : Garden Outdoorâ©
0.75 oz reagents. That is the K2006. The K2006C has 2 oz reagents and is normally right at $100 on Amazon.
0.75 oz reagents. That is the K2006. The K2006C has 2 oz reagents and is normally right at $100 on Amazon.
you are totally correct. there is a significate difference in cost for the C compared to the TF-100. so that is certainly the way to go.
Yep, we covered that back on post #9 & #10.
The testing procedure is straightforward, the kit comes with instructions.
While you were waiting for the test kit, you can add a gallon of regular unscented , not Chloromax technology, bleach each day until your test kit arrives. Scrub and brush after you add it.
Is your pool a hard metal side or a soft side pool?
I just got the K2006C yesterday. And was frustrated because the guide didn't tell me how to test. I kept looking for the step by step and eventual just read it cover to cover. nada, the instructions are on the under side of the kit lid!! I saw it there but didn't read it. I guess my unconscious mind figured it was just warning. It's the usual place for warnings. the book is the usual place for instructions. Once you find them they are easy to follow. The FC one needs reading twice, but easy enough.