Converting from Bacquacil to Chlorine

[cbeatrice]

TFP, I just began the conversion from Bacquacil to chlorine about a week ago, before I discovered your site. I followed a different set of instructions from another site ( Swim University ). The instructions were-- after establishing a 7.4-7.6 Ph level, to :
1. Add 4 lb of non chlorine SHOCK / per 10K gal of water
2. Start adding chlorine slowly ( dissolve one 3" tab at a time ) until you get a reading of 1ppm
3. Begin normal routine for chlorine

I am at Step #2 and started to slowly add chlorine and the water is a hazy light green/turquoise color

This recommendation is in STARK contrast to your procedure, so I have two questions. 1) what is wrong with what is being suggested, and 2) will it work for me to begin your process event though I have already started this one?

 

[tim5055]

1) what is wrong with what is being suggested

I'll be honest, without reading their full instructions I don;t know what the basis is for how they do it. It may work, it may not or somewhere in between. I do know if you don't add chlorine often enough in sufficient quantities you will prolong the conversion. You need to oxidize all of the Baqua that is in the pool and the addition of one dose of non chlorine shock isn't going to get it all. Plus, they have you adding stabilizer/CYA way too early in the process. The 3" tabs are almost half CYA and that inhibits the ability of chlorine to oxidize the contaminants.

2) will it work for me to begin your process event though I have already started this one?

Sure, it will still work but you need a test kit and to understand that as you have added MPS (non chlorine SHOCK) to teh water the CC test will read high for a while.

Read thru the Baqua forum and see what folks have done and how it turned out for them.

The choice is yours. If you do decide to follow our instructions, order a TF100 test kit and at least include the XL option. Please don't go back to the pool store for a test kit. To effectively practice the TFPC methods, the FAS/DPD chlorine test is essential. The TF100 test kit has this test while very few other kits do. The kits sold at the pool store generally won't won't cut it, but be careful pool store employees are known to say “it's the same thing”. Generally it's not!

The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006-C. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want. Even then it is a little short on the reagent & powder for the FAS/DPD test so you will need to order refills of these reagents when you order the kit.

 

[Husky25]

THe TFPC method of converting should work for you. The pool university method seems overly arduous and using tabs will only make the process longer because it adds CYA (stabilizer), meaning your SLAM target will be higher than it needs to be. The two methods do not appear compatible.

Did you use BQ with CDX (That may prolong the process, depending on last dose and timing)? When was your last dosing? Have you ordered a test kit yet? the TF-100 is a no-brainer for conversions. Can you create a signature, including your pool's Specs? Depending on size, you'll need enough liquid chlorine to maintain a requisite Free Chlorine reading. The best value in the Northeast (12.5%, 128 oz. gallons for $2.99+ tax) is Ocean State Job Lot. The pool that I converted was about 21,000 gallons and took about 47 gallons of LC, over about 10 days (4 day of "heavy lifting.").

 

[cbeatrice]

THe TFPC method of converting should work for you. The pool university method seems overly arduous and using tabs will only make the process longer because it adds CYA (stabilizer), meaning your SLAM target will be higher than it needs to be. The two methods do not appear compatible.

Did you use BQ with CDX (That may prolong the process, depending on last dose and timing)? When was your last dosing? Have you ordered a test kit yet? the TF-100 is a no-brainer for conversions. Can you create a signature, including your pool's Specs? Depending on size, you'll need enough liquid chlorine to maintain a requisite Free Chlorine reading. The best value in the Northeast (12.5%, 128 oz. gallons for $2.99+ tax) is Ocean State Job Lot. The pool that I converted was about 21,000 gallons and took about 47 gallons of LC, over about 10 days (4 day of "heavy lifting.").

I did not use CDX ( thankfully ). Last dose of BQ was last Fall. the water has turned from green to blue but I haven't achieved a 1ppm FAC reading as yet ( interesting ). I do have a test kit. Pool size is 24' above ground, round, vinyl liner, 48" depth, 11,800 gallons. This morning's test results:

FAC= 0
TAC = 0
CH = 140
CYA = 30
TA = 40
pH = 7.4


Good advice on the bleach, plenty of Ocean state job lots around here ( Northeast ). I am at a crossroads right now where I need to decide whether to continue the original "slow" method which so far seems to be working...or going to the other extreme using the TFPC method. It is funny that both of them could work. I don't see how. They are completely opposite approaches.

Dying to hear from someone who used the swim university method.

 

[Husky25]

Chances are if they are on this site and active in the forums, they probably used the TFP method. As I said earlier, The alternative seems time consuming (granted, I did nothing for a full two days except test and dose my water) and possibly more expensive. For example if your CYA gets much high, you may need to target a higher SLaM level, which means more LC.

TFP Moderators and other advice-providers make no bones about aiming to get your pool cleared as quick, easy, and inexpensive as they can.

 

[Donldson]

I think you misunderstood Tim's assertion that Swim University's process could work. He was commenting that he is not familiar with their method nor has ever heard of anyone trying it, therefore he does not want to state conclusively that their process does not work. I would guess that he does not believe it is a very good system and will likely lead to ongoing problems maintaining chlorine effectively due to not removing every bit of baqua from the water. I know that is what I think. We also know how much CYA blunts the effectiveness of chlorine, which in a chlorine pool is a very useful way to keep it comfortable but when trying to oxidize the baqua it slows the process incredibly. Generally someone with a readable 30 CYA level would even be told to dump half or more of their water because the CYA will slow the conversion and possibly cause lasting problems.

Their process doesn't really look like a good one to me, but like Tim I cannot say that it will not work. Only that I don't believe it will work efficiently in removing all of the baqua from your water. Our process is designed to get all of the baqua out of the water as quickly as reasonably possible and having a clean and clear slate to begin following TFPC. All I can say is that we have threads dating back a decade showing our process working.

Regardless of the path you take, I wish you luck with your conversion and hope it works. Welcome to TFP and I hope you find us a useful source of information now and in the future!

 

[tim5055]

I think you misunderstood Tim's assertion that Swim University's process could work. He was commenting that he is not familiar with their method nor has ever heard of anyone trying it, therefore he does not want to state conclusively that their process does not work. I would guess that he does not believe it is a very good system and will likely lead to ongoing problems maintaining chlorine effectively due to not removing every bit of baqua from the water. I know that is what I think.

You are correct in your guess/assumption.

 

[cbeatrice]

I think you misunderstood Tim's assertion that Swim University's process could work. He was commenting that he is not familiar with their method nor has ever heard of anyone trying it, therefore he does not want to state conclusively that their process does not work. I would guess that he does not believe it is a very good system and will likely lead to ongoing problems maintaining chlorine effectively due to not removing every bit of baqua from the water. I know that is what I think. We also know how much CYA blunts the effectiveness of chlorine, which in a chlorine pool is a very useful way to keep it comfortable but when trying to oxidize the baqua it slows the process incredibly. Generally someone with a readable 30 CYA level would even be told to dump half or more of their water because the CYA will slow the conversion and possibly cause lasting problems.

Their process doesn't really look like a good one to me, but like Tim I cannot say that it will not work. Only that I don't believe it will work efficiently in removing all of the baqua from your water. Our process is designed to get all of the baqua out of the water as quickly as reasonably possible and having a clean and clear slate to begin following TFPC. All I can say is that we have threads dating back a decade showing our process working.

Regardless of the path you take, I wish you luck with your conversion and hope it works. Welcome to TFP and I hope you find us a useful source of information now and in the future!

Thank you very much for clarifying. I appreciate that and what you say makes perfect sense. I will try the TFP method.

 

[cbeatrice]

Thank you very much for clarifying. I appreciate that and what you say makes perfect sense. I will try the TFP method.

Update: Success!!! Thank you to those who responded-- you were a HUGE help, pool is perfectly balanced and CRYSTAL clear. GOOD BYE BAQUACIL!!!