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Thread: got my test kit - adjusting sequence question

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    SF Bay Area (Lamorinda), CA
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    122

    got my test kit - adjusting sequence question

    Just received my K-2006 and tested it out. The past week my water has been looking pretty okay but I've also been 'guesstimating' bleach additions every couple days and brushing the sides down (generating puffs of yellowish-brown dust that I assume are those nefarious mustard algae) so the water is still mostly clear and blue.

    The results:
    FC 0.2 PPM
    CC 0.6PPM
    pH 7.0
    TA 140
    Calcium Hardness 240
    CYA 100+?? (I guess this is why I've had to keep adding chlorine... yes I was using tablets before I joined the forum)

    I just added about 3 lb. soda ash to adjust the pH - can I add the chlorine simultaneously or do I need to allow time for the soda ash to mix in first?
    1950's-era 17K gallon formerly fiberglass, newly replastered IG rectangle (~15x30'),
    Hayward S244S Sand Filter with Franklin Electric 0.75 HP motor and WhisperFlo WFE-3 pump
    Clear ThermaTex bubble cover
    Manual vacuum

  2. Back To Top    #2
    Butterfly's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    South Carolina
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    10,045

    Re: got my test kit - adjusting sequence question

    Hi PCMom and welcome

    Allow 30 mins. for the chems to mix before adding the chlorine.

    Also, it would be much better if you used borax to raise your pH as it has little effect on your TA.

    Your CYA is too high, but I think you know that. I suggest a series of drains/refills to get it down to at least 70.
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

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  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Re: got my test kit - adjusting sequence question

    Thanks Butterfly, it's been almost 2 hours since I added the soda ash. thanx for the borax tip too.

    yeah, the drain/refill is a bummer since we're on water rationing here... I'll probably get out the submersible pump so we can at least use the draining water on the garden (assuming that level of CYA isn't a problem for shrubs and lawns)
    1950's-era 17K gallon formerly fiberglass, newly replastered IG rectangle (~15x30'),
    Hayward S244S Sand Filter with Franklin Electric 0.75 HP motor and WhisperFlo WFE-3 pump
    Clear ThermaTex bubble cover
    Manual vacuum

  4. Back To Top    #4
    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    SWSuburban Chicago, IL
    Posts
    11,963

    Re: got my test kit - adjusting sequence question

    It won't hurt anything....What does the rationing mean - are you limited to how much you can drain at a time?
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Cupertino, CA
    Posts
    1,966

    Re: got my test kit - adjusting sequence question

    It's not the draining that's a problem; it's the refilling.

    Regarding the CYA test, you can dilute your sample 50/50 with tap water, then double the reading. This will tell you whether >100 means 120 or 180.
    --paulr
    BBB "Intermediate Swimmer"
    IG plaster pool 18.5K gal, Hayward Pro-Grid DE filter, 3/4 HP Hydramax II; Polaris 380, 3/4 HP booster
    AG spa 325 gal, probably Sundance of some kind
    Water testing instructions on one page

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