never give up

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herron333

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May 25, 2018
19
Flat Rock, IL
new to the forums very frustrated. third year with the pool, last year pool not clearing but glass media in filter not working, switched to sand and worked well; this year pool hasn't been clear since opening; I have followed recommendations from 3 pool dealers 4 different times with no success; pool is creamy greenish blue color only able to see about 1 foot depth; FC levels are always at or near zero; I have balanced other chemicals and shocked at least 4 times with essentially zero change; I have drained 3 feet and replaced twice; I have a Taylor DPD test kit K-2005 that I am learning to use; pool dealer has checked filter and felt it was ok; any help or suggestions appreciated

so the water test from the above mentioned kit is:

FC 0
TC 1
CC 1
ph 7
TA 220
CH 340
CYA 80

started the slam and have checked at 1 and 3 hours. It seems water is turning green. Is that normal???
 
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Re: never give up

new to the forums very frustrated. third year with the pool, last year pool not clearing but glass media in filter not working, switched to sand and worked well; this year pool hasn't been clear since opening; I have followed recommendations from 3 pool dealers 4 different times with no success; pool is creamy greenish blue color only able to see about 1 foot depth; FC levels are always at or near zero; I have balanced other chemicals and shocked at least 4 times with essentially zero change; I have drained 3 feet and replaced twice; I have a Taylor DPD test kit K-2005 that I am learning to use; pool dealer has checked filter and felt it was ok; any help or suggestions appreciated

so the water test from the above mentioned kit is:

FC 0
TC 1
CC 1
ph 7
TA 220
CH 340
CYA 80

all year it seems no matter what we do or how much chlorine we put in at once the FC is zero very quickly, like within hours or less; pool is still milky white/green and very cloudy
 
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Re: never give up

If your water is cloudy you need to do a SLAM Process.

To do that, you need a FAS-DPD test to add to your K2005. That kit can test to 50 ppm FC. You can order that test kit from TFTestkits.net.

At a CYA of 80, your SLAM level FC would be 32 ppm. That is quite high and difficult to maintain for a SLAM.

You would be best to consider a 50% water drain and refill with fresh water. You do need to consider water table height in your area to see if you can safely drain that much at once.

Consider that. Get back to us with your plan forward.

Take care.
 
Re: never give up

I drained down a foot or two. we have a well and I don't like to put more than that in at once. we have done that before to lower CYA and it works. I will try the SLAM but I'm still concerned because I've put 20 gallons of liquid chlorine in at once and it didn't last any time at all and pool never cleared at all
 
Re: never give up

A SLAM Process is a process. You added chlorine once and it did not work. It wouldn't. You will need to maintain the SLAM level FC, testing and adding chlorine several times each day, for a week or more to clean up the pool.
 
Re: never give up

It's not a one time addition of a load of chlorine. It's a process that needs to be maintained. You add chlorine to get to 32ppm FC since you don't want to drain again. Once it drops down to lets say 24 in a couple hours, you need to bring it back up to 32ppm again. SLAM is shock level and maintain. You are not maintaining the shock level. Once you do, you will see improvements. Your sand filter will need time to filter the algae. In this time you will need to brush the pool and vacuum all the dead algae being killed until you are clear.
 
Re: never give up

Hello Herron.... Like others have said... SLAM is a process. With a CYA of 80, you'll need to maintain a shock FC level of 32ppm... and Maintain your shock level. You mentioned that you don't see a change, but note that chlorine (FC) will decrease rapidly as algae is being killed off (algae will eat the FC up). This is the reason why, at the start of the SLAM process, it is imperative that you make sure to test for FC every couple of hours and maintain the shock level of 32ppm by adding the correct amount of chlorine (PoolMath) when necessary. Once algae is being killed off, the chlorine will not deplete as fast as it used to and you’ll not need to test so often. You'll also see a change in your pool ... gradually. It takes a bit of patience during the SLAM process, but you can do it for sure.

herron333 said:
I drained down a foot or two. we have a well and I don't like to put more than that in at once. we have done that before to lower CYA and it works. I will try the SLAM but I'm still concerned because I've put 20 gallons of liquid chlorine in at once and it didn't last any time at all and pool never cleared at all
Click to expand...
 

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Re: never give up

Your test kit is missing the FAS-DPD tester which gives you FC readings over 5ppm. Your current K-2005 can not.

Order that missing test from TFTestkits.net and it will turn your kit into something that can cut the mustard!

Understand that you want to raise your FC up at a specific level and *keep* it there as much as possible while your filter works to clear the dead and dying algae away. It takes a while as the algae are reproducing any time your FC level drops.. you have to stun it and then slay it!

Maddie :flower:
 
Re: never give up

I’m not sure if I need to reply or update my thread so I did both. I just started slam and checked at 1 and 3 hours and just added more chlorine at 3 hours. Water seems to be turning green. Is that normal? Any help is appreciated
 
The main reason for green is algae. Or iron in the water. You mentioned you fill with a well. Does your well water have iron? Have you dealt with iron before in your pool?
 
I am not a metals expert. Do you have iron in your well water? I would assume you get the well water tested. That test should show if there is iron in the water. Other telltale signs are red streaks in sinks, toilets, etc.

I will ask our metals person to look at the thread
 
Hi Herron. The best way now to handle the presumed iron is to WAIT until the SLAM Process is over, you have passed the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test, allowed the FC to drop to normal sanitization levels — per [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] AND THEN add the sequestrant. We’ve found Metal Magic and Jacks Magic to be most reliable, but if the product you bought is a phosphonic based sequestrant (label might say HEDP or diphosphon8c Acid) it will do.

The green tint immediately after adding chlorine is usually an indication of high iron levels that have come out of solution due to the elevation of the chlorine levels.

The reason you don’t want to add sequestrant now is that the high chlorine will consume all the sequestrant, or break it down really fast. In general, you wan5 to avoid slamming for at least a few weeks after adding metal sequestrant...preferably Never, which is possible once you’re fully on the TFP method ;)

But I did want to ask...did you lower your cya level before slamming? That is in my opinion advisable.

As for the green water, you can still get it to CLEAR green water while you’re finishing the slam and passing the oclt.

Then address the iron.

I’m on well with about 2 ppm iron...helps if I fill from the softener and run through a second filter when I fill. You might consider doing the same.
 
Thanks for the input. I went ahead and added the Pool Magnet. Sometimes I get too eager I guess. Anyway, I added it. Free chlorine is still at shock level and the brown particulate seems to settle some. Not really enough to vacuum yet other than with the Dolphin. I can’t see enough to see what I’m vacuuming. Hopefully the sequestrant won’t mess things up. Thanks again.

- - - Updated - - -

And I did lower CYA to 50
 

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