Opening Pool - Very High Free Chlorine

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JPMorgan

JPMorgan

Gold Supporter
May 22, 2018
691
Elmhurst, IL
Pool Size
60000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I am new to the site and appreciate all the great information on this site.

I overdid it on shock when opening this year and my FC has been reading in the high teens for a few days, currently about 16.
pH 7.5; TA 130 (with Poolmaster test kit).
CYA 30 (from pool store before I shocked with bleach). Several days later another store said it was 11. Test strip indicates closer to 11 than 30.
CH 250 (with Aquacheck Test Strip)

Pool is still cloudy. Have been running the filter almost constantly for 3 days and can just barely see the bottom. I do have some DE, but have not used it.

Should I ignore the CYA for now until the FC level comes down, then retest the CYA? Seems like it is going to take a few days for FC to drop. Pool gets sunlight all day, but it has not been that hot or sunny in this area lately. Should I take any active steps to bring down the FC level?

Thanks for your help.
 
Hello JP and welcome to the forum! :wave: Well, here's a phrase you will see & hear on TFP all the time …… test your own water properly. :blah::blah: Not at the pool store (which is often wrong), or with guess strips (which are almost always wrong), but with either a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C. That simple start-up cost will save you more time, energy, frustration, and probably $$ than anything else. Right now anything else is a guess like throwing a dart in the wind.

Since you probably opened recently, you'll need to do what we call a SLAM Process. You need one of those kits to do the SLAM, but it works very well. Accuracy is the name of the game. Until then, don't add anything to the water except perhaps 1 gallon of regular bleach each evening. No scented, splashless, or polymers added. When you get your test kit, post a full set of results (which will be much more reliable) and we can really help you get that water clear again. Make sure to review and save the Vital Links in my sig as well. You'll use them often. Hope that helps. We'll be watching for more updates.
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
 
Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it. I will get the Taylor test kit asap and post my test results. Just to be clear I did test the chlorine with a FAS-DPD test kit and the FC is very high (16). I don't want to add more liquid chlorine now with a high FC reading, right? While I didn't follow the TFP SLAM method when opening (didn't know about this site until a few days ago), I did dump a whole bunch of chlorine in the pool already and it is holding FC with no CC.

I have been messing a bit with pH and TA, but I realize now that is a mistake until I get better readings on those with the Taylor Kit. I think they are close to where they need to be, but I will get the new kit and test to be sure. No more testing at the pool store!
 
Is K2006C basically the same as TF-100? It looks like the K2006C has more of each reagent so will be able to do a few more of each test. it is more expensive though, but can get through Amazon for about $100 in a day.
Amazon doesn't sell the TF-100 directly.
 
The K2006(C) has the same volume bottles for all the reagents pretty much. And everyone who has ever done their first set of tests with the K2006(C) quickly realizes that they're going to run out of some of these reagent very soon and have left overs of other by the end of summer which means just throwing that stuff out. The TF100(XL) fixes this by supplying roughly the amount reagents a residential pool owner needs by supplying those reagents in various sizes of bottles. less waste and lower chance of having to buy extra reagents during summer with the TF100
 
Thanks for the recommendations. Will go with the TF-100. Would like to get one tomorrow and get testing (rather than ordering online). Any suggestions on where to get this kit? Leslie's is the nearest pool store and they don't seem to carry this particular kit.
 
Any suggestions on where to get this kit?
Click to expand...
Unfortunately, it's not a product found locally. You'll want to order from TFTeskits.com. Order now and you should have it fairly quickly. They can confirm an estimated delivery date I believe. If you can swing it, I would also get the magnetic speedstir. You'll understand why once you have it. :stirpot:
 
Would the K2006C be a good substitute if I want to pick up a test kit tomorrow? I'm sure it will be a day or two before I receive the TF-100 ordered online. Will be sure to order the TF-100 early next year!
 

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Thanks. One more question..... is Poolmaster Reagent #2 (Phenol Red) the same as the reagent to test for pH in the Taylor test kit? Just bought some of the Poolmaster Phenol Red and wondering if I can use it with my new test kit.
 
Just bought some of the Poolmaster Phenol Red and wondering if I can use it with my new test kit.
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I'm not familiar enough with the Poolmaster kit to know which version of phenol red it comes with. But you can see on THIS THREAD, the R-0004 is for the larger 40ml tube that comes with the K2005/2006 tests, so it's a lot more concentrated than the R-0014 that is used in the smaller OTO comparator view (i.e. K-1000 series). Maybe that will help.
 
Thanks. I'm just going to return the Poolmaster stuff and stick with the Taylor reagents.
I took readings with my Poolmaster Kit and the FAS-DPD Chlorine test kit again this morning. Headed to the pool store in about an hour to pick up a Taylor kit. It will be interesting to see the difference when I retest a little later. Right now I have:
FC 8.5 (it has come down from 16 yesterday) This should be accurate.
pH 7.4
TA 120
CH 250 (this is a guess with a test strip)
CYA 10 (this is also a guess with a test strip)

I will get the test done at the pool store just for comparison, but won't purchase or add any chemicals until I check back in. I will do all the tests with the Taylor kit and post my results.
Right now pool is still cloudy. Been running constantly for 4 days. Saw that the pressure has come up a little bit overnight, so may need to do a backwash. Usually clears in 4-5 days, but seems like it is taking longer this year.
 
Thank you. I looked at the chart and it looks like the higher the CYA the higher the FC needs to be. If I'm in the ballpark with a CYA reading of 10, then FC level of 8.5 is a bit high. I will get an accurate reading on all tests and post it soon. I'm guessing that I need to bring up the CYA, but there may be other things going on. Not sure why the pool is remaining so cloudy this year. Will check back in soon with complete readings. Going to get my new test kit now!
 
Yes, definitely do the CYA test with your Taylor kit and use those numbers. Guess strips and pool stores often get that test wrong.
CYA Testing:
Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Use the mixing bottle to gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Recommend standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body at waist level. Then, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. To help the eyes and prevent staring at the dot, some people find it better to pour & view in stages. Pour some solution into the viewing tube, look away, then look back again for the dot. Repeat as necessary until you feel the dot is gone. After the first CYA test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, gently shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate your own CYA reading.
Click to expand...

You'll definitely want a minimum CYA of 30, otherwise the sun will oxidize your FC right away.
Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
Click to expand...
 
Okay..... I am armed with my new test kit (Taylor K2005), as well as pool store test results. Went with the K2005 because I already have a FAS-DPD Chlorine Test Kit and it was $20 cheaper.
Results of all tests are as follows (my test results first followed by Leslie's test results (they use the same test kit):
FC 8 8
CC 0 .2
pH 7.2 7.4
TA 110 110
CH 270 270
CYA 40 30
TDS 850

So.... we are pretty close on most tests. I will retest CYA again as this was my first time and I did it before reading the instructions posted above.

Pool remains cloudy and is taking a lot of time to clear up so I also bought some Clear Aid from the store. They said it is their best clarifier, but that I need to let the FC drop to at least 5, then add the proper dose and let filter run for 48 hours.

Per Chlorine/ CYA Chart (based on range of 30-40 CYA), target FC is 4 (on the low side) and 7 (on the high side) and I am at 8 today.

Plan: Let FC continue to drop today. Retest CYA today using method above. If FC at 5 or under tonight or tomorrow morning, add the ClearAid and see if that helps.
Start regular chlorination with liquid chlorine using PoolMath to determine proper dose. I also have some Trichlor tablets, so if I need to bump up CYA I may start using the tablets for awhile and keep checking the CYA until it gets to right level. Is 40 good for CYA?

I can also start aerating to bring up the pH a bit. I did add some DE to filter last night and psi has risen by about 4 (starting 34; now 38). Should I backwash before adding Clarifier?

Please let me know if this is a good plan for clearing up my cloudy pool or if I should be doing other things. Any comments are greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
Now that you have your own testing results and know you need to SLAM, increase the FC to "16". That's the correct SLAM/Shock level based on the [FC/CYA]CYA[/FC/CYA] for your CYA of 40. As for the ClearAid, I'd return it. No need for that product. Your Triton should provide all the filtration you need. I wouldn't increase the CYA anymore at this point since you want to save bleach by SLAMming at a lower CYA level. Also, a SLAM requires a lower pH (7.2-7.4) so don't try to raise that either. Stick close to the SLAM Process page right now and it will guide you. Focus on maintaining that SLAM/Shock level for now.

Lastly, don't forget to update your signature with the new test kit. Since you essentially have a K-2006 (2005 + FAS-DPD), just say K-2006. :)
 
Thanks again, TS. Just questioning the need to SLAM now. I have already been there (though didn't really know what I was doing at the time). Started last weekend and dumped in a lot of Calcium Hypochlorite (what I have used in the past). Didn't get a good FC reading after a while, so dumped in a bunch of Dichlor that I had..... still didn't do the trick. Finally, went to the store and got 12 gals of liquid chlorine (12.5%). Put 4 gals in and started to get decent FC reading, but was not maintaining, so about an hour after adding 4 gals, I added another 5 gals. That seemed to do the trick. FC shot way up and has been there for days.... in the 20s and high teens. Yesterday, (after about 2 days) I was still testing in the high teens and today it is down to about 8. No CC present. Do I really need to dump in a bunch more chlorine and raise it up to 16 again? I think the pool has been shocked sufficiently, although as I said, it wasn't a very methodical process, but I eventually got there. Seems like I would be repeating what I just completed.
 

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