Pool help please!

May 14, 2018
21
Muncie IN
Hello

I am new to posting so bear with me. I just bought a house with an 18x36 in ground pool that hasnt been used or covered in two years. As a single mother with two children im trying this alone since we have no pool companies anywhere near us that have maintenance.

First off i have a Hayward s240 sand filter and before i even got to the pool itself i had to replace 90 percent of the setup outside. Just put new sand and laterals in and now focusing on the pool!

I have been scraping leaves and mud off the bottom with a large net for 2 weeks and now getting nothing but mud and pine needles. I put 4lbs of shock and a gallon of muratic acid in yesterday and have ran the filter about 10hrs so far. The water is still green but almost grey and has foam on top. Still cannot see the bottom. I need to know if im doing the right thing with just shock and if so how much? Do i need algecide? Do i need more acid? Should i use pool first aid in the liter jugs? I really am clueless! PLEASE ANYONE WITH ADVISE WOULD BE SO GREATFUL! Hanging by a thread here. Thank you
 
Hey HB, welcome to the forum. Hat's off to you for all the hard work so far. :salut: You've been busy. Now it's time to get accurate - water testing. That's #1 right now. If you don't have a TF-100 ot Taylor K-2006C test kit (link below) that needs to be priority #1. We need to see test results from you using one of those kits. I have the TF-100 and can tell you it's fantastic, but that's what we need to show you what to do. Stay far away from the pool store or any products they sell. Regular bleach is your pools friend right now, but it has to be in the right amount.

So step #1 - get one of those test kits and post a full set of results for us. It will save you time and money later.
#2 - Continue to clean, sweep, etc. Get as much junk out as you can manually.
#3 - Backwash to waste as needed and keep an eye on your psi gauge so it doesn't get too high
#4 - Add about one gallon of regular bleach to the water each day. That won't clear everything up, but it should help slow down the mess until your kit arrives and can perform a true SLAM Process. Make sure it's regular bleach with no additives - not splashless, no scents, no polymers.

Take time to read the vital links below in my signature, and don't forget to update your sig as well. :wink: We'll look for your test results and help you get that water clear. :)
 
Ok, first, breathe! No, you don’t need any of that stuff! Do you have a good test kit (no strips!) If not, order a TF-100 from tftestkits.net.

Next, take a look at Pool School, link on top of this page. This will explain everything you need to know about clearing up that pool and keeping it clear without spending a fortune on potions.

Right now, until you have your test kit, keep scooping out muck, and add nothing more than plain liquid chlorine, also known as bleach. You don’t want the fancy scented, splashless, or enhanced products, just plain bleach. Wait a moment and we’ll tell you how much.

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There you go... Texas Splash in for the win!
 
Take pictures. We love seeing pics, there's no denying that. More importantly though, is that during the SLAM process you may feel like you've reached a plateau. Referencing a photo history will show you progress. (and if progress truly stops, we can see it in pictures and help you troubleshoot)

So, WELCOME, and congrats on the new house/pool!
 
THANK YOU to the people who answered. Ok so here are the levels as of this morning via test strips because testing kit you mentioned wont be here til Friday

FC-nothing still completely white but yesterday at light pink 1ppm
PH-7.8
Alk-120

Also yesterday we hooked up the old vacuum equipment that was left until our new leaf bag vacuum head gets here later today and within 3 min the 2nd skimmer was completely full of pine needles and muck...but we had it on waste which goes out the back where the backwash does and didnt see a bunch of anything just water.

If anyone can tell me how to post pics on here that would help also I'm sure. Please keep the responses coming as i will be keeping you updated regularly...thanks again!!!!
 
For now, just continue to remove as much physical debris as you can. Don't worry about testing with the test strips. They simple aren't reliable. But you can add about 1/2 gallon of regular bleach to the water each day. Make sure it's plan/regular with NO additives (i.e. splashless, scented, or polymers). Just 1/2 gallon each day and continue to clean and once the kit arrives, post a full set of numbers and we'll go from there.

For pics, look at the tool bar just above where you type in a post. Look for that small window/square with the tiny black dots at each corner. That should allow you to upload a picture.

Have a great day.
 
That's an interesting mess you have there. :) No worries, it looks bad now but we can help you through it. Just don't add anything else other than the bleach as I noted above and do as much sweeping/brushing as you can. Chemically, we'll wait for the test kit.
 
Also yesterday we hooked up the old vacuum equipment that was left until our new leaf bag vacuum head gets here later today and within 3 min the 2nd skimmer was completely full of pine needles and muck...but we had it on waste which goes out the back where the backwash does and didn't see a bunch of anything just water.

If anyone can tell me how to post pics on here that would help also I'm sure. Please keep the responses coming as i will be keeping you updated regularly...thanks again!!!!
You are doing great! (from one mom to another)

While you wait for your test kit, and in-between adding bleach and cleaning out muck, definitely hop into Pool School - Getting Started

And if you can add these pool & equipment details to your signature, that would be very helpful for everyone offering advice & support!
 
Also just an fyi and making sure the equipment seems ok. Our Hayward S240 filter seems to maintain pressure at about 18psi. Before we changed the multi valve and sand it was around 7psi. The highest it has gotten is 22psi and pump basket was filled and after backwash it went back down to 18. Im hoping thats ok. Big fear is that filter isnt doing its job. Didnt see any broken laterals
 

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Also just an fyi and making sure the equipment seems ok. Our Hayward S240 filter seems to maintain pressure at about 18psi. Before we changed the multi valve and sand it was around 7psi. The highest it has gotten is 22psi and pump basket was filled and after backwash it went back down to 18. Im hoping thats ok. Big fear is that filter isnt doing its job. Didnt see any broken laterals

That sounds okay, I think a weekend deep cleaning would do wonders as well =) make sure the sand isn't packed in and able to filter =)
 
0523180643a.jpg.

Ok everyone i put two bottles of liquid chlorine in last evening before bed. This is in the shallow corner. It is not gritty in my fingers or slimy. Just a foam...

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0523180643.jpg

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0523180643.jpg

Shallow end corner after 8 hrs overnight
 
The SLAM will likely lighten those stains. If not, there are some other tricks; clear pool is more important right now. Also, that ladder should be removed, it might be full of grossness and will slow the SLAM. Same with any lights, once you can see them to get them out :)

Just to confirm, you have scooped and scooped until you are getting very little debris off the bottom, yes?
 
I still have about an 1/8 of the net that fills but im doing this blind so its hard to tell whats left. Im gonna keep scooping and vacuuming this weekend

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OK EVERYONE!

Pool test kit just arrived so ill have the levels to you guys as soon as i get home this evening...praying that its not too bad! :(
 
I still have about an 1/8 of the net that fills but im doing this blind so its hard to tell whats left. Im gonna keep scooping and vacuuming this weekend
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OK EVERYONE!
Pool test kit just arrived so ill have the levels to you guys as soon as i get home this evening...praying that its not too bad! :(

Great update! *waiting* =)
 
OK EVERYONE TEST READINGS AND VERY CONFUSED. Used Taylor fas dpd complete kit and here we go

FC- stayes clear and never turned pink.

PH- stayed yellow and would not turn even close to lowest 7.0 Orange

Alk- between 7.8 and 8.0

CH- 2.4ppm. Took 12 drops

Cya- poured mixture to the top past 30 mark and could still see faintly black dot on bottom of glass tube and couldn't fill any further.

I'm confused about these readings so please tell me where to go from here. I obviously have no chlorine. Thank you to all who can help!
 
OK EVERYONE TEST READINGS AND VERY CONFUSED. Used Taylor fas dpd complete kit and here we go

FC- stayes clear and never turned pink.

PH- stayed yellow and would not turn even close to lowest 7.0 Orange

Alk- between 7.8 and 8.0

CH- 2.4ppm. Took 12 drops

Cya- poured mixture to the top past 30 mark and could still see faintly black dot on bottom of glass tube and couldn't fill any further.

I'm confused about these readings so please tell me where to go from here. I obviously have no chlorine. Thank you to all who can help!

Use [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] to add enough liquid chlorine for FC

Increase your pH with aeration (if available) or Borates

TA or alkalinity isn't 7.8 reading... I dont think

Pool School has article on complete testing procedures

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Pool School - Extended Test Kit Directions
 
Hey HB! :wave: Testing is new to you, so let's recap a couple items that are most important:
First, the CYA Testing:
Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Taylor recommends standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body. Use the mixing bottle to combine/gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Then, while holding the skinny tube with the black dot at waist level, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. If it helps, pour a little, look away, then look back and pour some more. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. After the first test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate the CYA reading. If you are still questioning your own results, have a friend or two do the same test 2-3 times. Share your results only after everyone is done to see if you came up with the same average results.

If the CYA is below 30 (black dot never disappeared), then you need to increase with stabilizer.
Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
Once you have that CYA, go to the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] and find the corresponding FC level and increase it right away with regular bleach.

After you added the bleach, start on the pH getting it back to at least orange. PH can be raised in three ways: borax, soda ash, and aeration. Borax is usually the best choice. Borax raises the PH and also raises the TA level just a little. Borax is best added by pre-dissolving it in a bucket of water and then pouring that slowly in front of a return.

Focus on those for now and we'll worry about the others next.
 

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