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Thread: New forum member with question

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    New forum member with question

    Hello all, What a great site with so muc information. I'm reading up on the BBB method and definitely will look at converting to this method. But what brought me here in the first place?

    Had a problem earlier in the summer with green water. I kept the chemicals correct, kept the sides and bottom clean, but had a green color to the water. After several attempts and suggestions from the local pool store owner, we determined high phosphates and got rid of those with PhosFree. I hadn't tested for phosphates prior to this, wasn't aware of them until now.

    After 2 weeks of great pool water, it suddenly turned the same green color again. I have now been fighting this for weeks since and nothing seems to help. Every time I take a water sample in they tell me all the tests are "on the money". Out of desperation I've added several treatments of "Metal Free" thinking I had some type of metals problem. But still no good. I've been a pool owner for many years and never had a problem like this before. I welcome any and all advice.

    Pools size = Oval 18x32 48" above ground
    300 Lb sand filter

    Todays numbers
    Total Hardness - 300 ppm
    TC - 3 ppm
    FC - 3 ppm
    PH - 7.6
    TA - 120 ppm
    CA - 50 ppm
    Phophates - 0
    Total Disolved Solids - 0
    Copper test - Also 0

    Water.........................GREEN
    18 x 32 Oval - Above Ground - Vinyl
    300 lb sand filter
    1.5 hp motor/pump

  2. Back To Top    #2
    Mod Squad JohnT's Avatar
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    Re: New forum member with question

    Welcome to TFP.

    Without knowing your CYA level, I can't be sure, but your chlorine is almost certainly too low. The numbers most people go by don't apply to stabilized chlorine pools, and you often need levels substatially higher. Post your CYA level and we can recommend a shock level that will clear the pool.

    Read the Pool School article on defeating algae pool-school/defeating_algae for more information.

    No conversion is required to use our methods. Just quit buying the overpriced stuff at the pool store and start buying the identical chemicals at a much lower price at the grocery store.

    You were scammed on the phosphate deal.
    TFP Moderator
    20K Gallon 20X36 Vinyl Inground
    Hayward S244T Sand Filter with 1HP Whisperflo Pump. Liquidator C-201 and Solar Heat

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Re: New forum member with question

    I thought I had posted it. I used CA instead of CYA. I assume you mean Cyanauric Acid. Mine is 50 PPM.

    I am reading the article you referenced now. And I found the pool calculator. What great tools. If I am using it ocrrectly I think it is telling me I need to shock at a level of 16 ppm. Sound correct?

    I'm going to read the article again as I am not sure over what time period these shock levels need to be maintained. Maybe I missed it.
    18 x 32 Oval - Above Ground - Vinyl
    300 lb sand filter
    1.5 hp motor/pump

  4. Back To Top    #4
    Mod Squad JohnT's Avatar
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    Re: New forum member with question

    Quote Originally Posted by LWillis
    I thought I had posted it. I used CA instead of CYA. I assume you mean Cyanauric Acid. Mine is 50 PPM.

    I am reading the article you referenced now. And I found the pool calculator. What great tools. If I am using it ocrrectly I think it is telling me I need to shock at a level of 16 ppm. Sound correct?

    I'm going to read the article again as I am not sure over what time period these shock levels need to be maintained. Maybe I missed it.
    Somewhere in the 16-20 range is where you want to be for shocking. You want to stay around 6ppm for chlorine most of the time, and never let it drop below 4ppm at a CYA of 50ppm.

    The key point for shocking to eliminate algae is to check the chlorine very frequently. every few hours at first, then several times a day when the chlorine starts to hold. Consistent high chlorine levels are the fastest way to clearing the pool.
    TFP Moderator
    20K Gallon 20X36 Vinyl Inground
    Hayward S244T Sand Filter with 1HP Whisperflo Pump. Liquidator C-201 and Solar Heat

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    Re: New forum member with question

    I've ordered my high range chlorine test kit and will start the recommended chlorination of the pool as soon as it arrives. I will let you know if successful. Thanks again.
    18 x 32 Oval - Above Ground - Vinyl
    300 lb sand filter
    1.5 hp motor/pump

  6. Back To Top    #6

    Re: New forum member with question

    I've started the chlorine treatment as outlined on this forum. FC level is up to18 ppm and holding. Has been that way overnight. That is the recommeded shock value, but do I need to go higher? Is there a level that is "too much". I'm sure I don't have mustard algae as I don't have any slime on the walls or bottm of the pool. But I'm wondering if I should increase to the mustard algae shock levels??

    Currently

    Hardness - 125 ppm
    TA - 120 ppm
    TC- 19 ppm
    FC- 18 ppm
    CC - 1 ppm
    PH 7.4
    CYA 50 ppm
    Phopshates 0
    TDS 0
    18 x 32 Oval - Above Ground - Vinyl
    300 lb sand filter
    1.5 hp motor/pump

  7. Back To Top    #7

    How long does FC leves need to be at shock level

    Merged threads to maintain history. Butterfly

    I've started the chlorine treatment as outlined on this forum. FC level is up to 18 ppm shock level and holding. Has been that way overnight (past 24 hours). That is the recommeded shock value, but do I need to go higher? Is there a level that is "too much". I'm sure I don't have mustard algae as I don't have any slime on the walls or bottm of the pool. But I'm wondering if I should increase to the mustard algae shock levels??

    Currently

    Hardness - 125 ppm
    TA - 120 ppm
    TC- 19 ppm
    FC- 18 ppm
    CC - 1 ppm
    PH 7.3
    CYA 50 ppm
    Phopshates 0
    TDS 0
    18 x 32 Oval - Above Ground - Vinyl
    300 lb sand filter
    1.5 hp motor/pump

  8. Back To Top    #8
    Bob_Funk's Avatar
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    Re: How long does FC leves need to be at shock level

    Have you read pool school-how to shock your pool & overnight free chlorine loss test?

    Why are you shocking? Is your pool green, cloudy, or some other reason?

    What kind of pool surface do you have? You should put your pool info in your signature.

    Also how are you testing your water, strips, drop test, pool store?
    I consider myself very lucky I found this site before the pool store found me-pool owner since Nov 2008- Stunningly clear 17,000 gal fiberglass pool, thanks to this site, installed in 1982-24" 3.1sq. ft sta-rite sand filter, 1 hp - 2 speed wisperflo pump-WFDS-4

  9. Back To Top    #9
    TizMe's Avatar
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    Covington, Georgia
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    Re: How long does FC leves need to be at shock level

    What makes you think you need to shock your pool? What does your water look like? Is it clear, cloudy, green ?
    Les
    Don't have a pool right now. Just sharing what I have learned over the years!
    Helpful Links:
    Pool School,Pool Calculator,Cl/CYA Shock Chart,TF Test Kit
    Doing BBB and loving it!

  10. Back To Top    #10

    Re: How long does FC leves need to be at shock level

    Sorry,
    Will repost the original problem.

    Had a problem earlier in the summer with green water. I kept the chemicals correct, kept the sides and bottom clean, but had a green color to the water. After several attempts and suggestions from the local pool store owner, we determined high phosphates and got rid of those with PhosFree. I hadn't tested for phosphates prior to this, wasn't aware of them until now. Water cleraed up perfectly and was clear for 2 weeks.

    After 2 weeks of great pool water, it suddenly turned the same green color again. I have now been fighting this for weeks since and nothing seems to help. Every time I take a water sample in they tell me all the tests are "on the money". Out of desperation I've added several treatments of "Metal Free" thinking I had some type of metals problem. But still no good. I've been a pool owner for many years and never had a problem like this before. I welcome any and all advice.

    Pools size = Oval 18x32 48" above ground
    300 Lb sand filter

    I ordered the drop reagent chlorine test, bought plenty of liquid chlorine per the "how to clear up a green pool" in the pool school on this site.

    I've started the chlorine treatment yesterday as outlined on this forum. FC level is up to 18 ppm shock level and holding. Has been that way overnight (past 24 hours). I keep checking and adding chlorine. That is the recommeded shock value, but do I need to go higher? The water is still green and has not changed yet. Is there a chlorine level that is "too much". I'm sure I don't have mustard algae as I don't have any slime on the walls or bottm of the pool. But I'm wondering if I should increase the FC up to the mustard algae shock levels??

    Currently

    Hardness - 125 ppm
    TA - 120 ppm
    TC- 19 ppm
    FC- 18 ppm
    CC - 1 ppm
    PH 7.3
    CYA 50 ppm
    Phopshates 0
    TDS 0
    18 x 32 Oval - Above Ground - Vinyl
    300 lb sand filter
    1.5 hp motor/pump

  11. Back To Top    #11

    Join Date
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    Re: How long does FC leves need to be at shock level

    This thread looks like it was meant to be a continuation of http://www.troublefreepool.com/new-f...on-t16789.html.
    --paulr
    BBB "Intermediate Swimmer"
    IG plaster pool 18.5K gal, Hayward Pro-Grid DE filter, 3/4 HP Hydramax II; Polaris 380, 3/4 HP booster
    AG spa 325 gal, probably Sundance of some kind
    Water testing instructions on one page

  12. Back To Top    #12

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    Re: How long does FC leves need to be at shock level

    You can lower the FC levels when.....
    1. Your pool water is sparkling
    2. Your CC's are .5ppm or less
    3. You can hold your FC overnight without losing more than 1ppm.


    I see no reason to elevate the level of FC.
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

  13. Back To Top    #13

    Re: New forum member with question

    Are you getting good circulation and brushing often?
    23,000 gallon in ground pool with rock waterfall and spillover spa, Aqualink control system, Polaris 380 cleaner, Purex Triton Clean&Clear Plus cartridge filter. Located in The Woodlands, Texas.

    Pool owner since Nov 2008, Trouble Free since April 2009. Happy to help when I can.

  14. Back To Top    #14

    Re: New forum member with question

    Yes... brushing each day. Keeping FC >18 PPM.

    Going on day 2 and water is not clearing yet.

    Thanks for help. ANy experience on how long this can take?
    18 x 32 Oval - Above Ground - Vinyl
    300 lb sand filter
    1.5 hp motor/pump

  15. Back To Top    #15

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    Re: New forum member with question

    ANy experience on how long this can take?
    4-5 days is not at all uncommon. Much longer if you allow the FC to frequently drop below shock value.

    Elevating your FC levels (say up around 24) may Possibly accelerate the process but it causes you to burn up considerably more bleach. (with probably little added benefit)

    Keep your FC where it is, and be patient. This will be the least expensive of all the stuff you've thrown in the pool and this will work......if you give it time and are consistent with your bleach dosages.
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

  16. Back To Top    #16

    Re: New forum member with question

    Now on day 3. FC stays consistently above 20 ppm. I don't have to add any liquid chlorine as the tablet chlorinator is injecting enough to keep up with the deman. Combined chlorine is consistentlt 1 ppm or less. I'll give it a couple more days and see what happens.

    Water color still remains green in color.

    FC = currently 22 ppm
    CC = <1 ppm
    ph = 7.2
    CYA = 50 ppm
    18 x 32 Oval - Above Ground - Vinyl
    300 lb sand filter
    1.5 hp motor/pump

  17. Back To Top    #17
    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: New forum member with question

    You will increase your CYA level by using the the tablet chlorinator. The higher the CYA level the higher the shock level = more chlorine needed (refer to the CYA chart). The tablets are acidic and they lower PH/TA. YOu really should be shocking with straight bleach/liquid chlorine.
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

  18. Back To Top    #18

    Re: New forum member with question

    Quote Originally Posted by frustratedpoolmom
    You will increase your CYA level by using the the tablet chlorinator. The higher the CYA level the higher the shock level = more chlorine needed (refer to the CYA chart). The tablets are acidic and they lower PH/TA. YOu really should be shocking with straight bleach/liquid chlorine.
    I've used the tablet chlorinator for years. I know that it slowly raises the CYA but I keep this monitored. And I do a pretty good water change when lowering the water for the winter.

    I have used the liquid chlorine to do the initial shock. The FC level has stabilized at 22ppm and I'm not having to add any more liquid chlorine at this point. I could shut off the tablet chlorinator and go to all liquid at this point, but thought it would be more stable to hold the shock levels this way. I'm now going on 4 days at +20 ppm and the water is still green and has not changed any. I cannot see the bottom of the pool. Shouldn't the water be gradually clearing up at this point?
    18 x 32 Oval - Above Ground - Vinyl
    300 lb sand filter
    1.5 hp motor/pump

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