My pump motor is screaming

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pfitz4

pfitz4

Bronze Supporter
Feb 26, 2018
85
North Alabama
At the end of the day yesterday, the motor was making a constant loud high-pitched screaming noise. I'm assuming the bearings are going out. What are my options here? Is this something I should call the pool shop to repair? Here are photos of my setup. As you can see the motor has some corrosion around it.

Pool was built in 2004. I believe the motor was replaced 5-7 years ago, but I'm not certain. We bought the house 3 years ago.

Pool repairs have already crept deep into the pockets this year...had to replace vinyl liner, new salt cell, and will be replacing safety cover at the end of season. :eek:

View attachment 75649
 
I would look into finding an electric motor repair shop in town ... They would be cheaper than the pool store, or the other option (new pump)
 
Arizonarob said:
I know you have already dug deep for other repairs, but I would look seriously at replacing that pump with a VS pump. It will pay for itself in 1 to 2 years with the savings in electricity.
Just my 2 cents.
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Thank you! I will look into it. Do you have any specific recommendations? Honestly not sure where to start...

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RonsPlc said:
I would look into finding an electric motor repair shop in town ... They would be cheaper than the pool store, or the other option (new pump)
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Good idea. Would this involve buying a replacement motor and having the shop install it? Or taking the old motor to them to repair?
 
If replacing just the motor - you can also look into a 2 speed motor. While running on low speed (1725 rpm vs 3450 rpm) it uses approximately 1/4 the watts of running on high speed. So even if you run 9n pow spped for twice as long as presently running on high speed, you can save up to 50% on electricity costs to run the pump.

Motor repair shops here mostly have the customer bring the motor in. If you aren't comfortable disconnecting/reconnecting electrical, you may wish to find a local handyman, electrian, pool shop, etc to do that for you.

Replacing the entire motor/pump combination (ie, changing to a variable speed pump) will also require some PVC work to connect the new pump.
 
Fitz,

First thing is to ask if you're comfortable and experienced with 220v wiring. If you're not comfortable get qualified help or skip to item 3. If you are then here are your options from cheapest to most expensive:

  1. Disconnect/remove the motor then twist the pump shaft to make sure you don't have something caught in the impeller. If so disassemble it, remove obstruction and reassemble.
  2. If no noise on the pump end disassemble the motor and replace the bearing. Note you may twist off the 4 long bolts holding the case together. If this happens take it to a motor shop and let them finish it. Or just take it to the motor shop to start with. This cost is usually 1/3 cost of a new motor.
  3. Call 3 pool repair services, give them the specs on your motor and ask for a turnkey replace price plus references in your area.
  4. Do you reference checks then select the best combination of reference quality and price.

Anytime you separate the pump and motor it is a VERY good idea to replace the seal that is in the pump end. Failure of this seal probably caused your bearing failure. Also, remove the long bolts on the rebuilt motor carefully and lubricate the threads with anti-seize. Do each one, one-at-a-time and never with power connected. This will allow you to disassemble the motor easily in the future so you can easily replace the bearing. The motor should last for 2-4 bearings. The tread corrosion is due to dissimilar metal corrosion (thread is usually steel and housing it threads into is aluminum or magnesium)

I hope this helps.

Chris
 
proavia said:
If replacing just the motor - you can also look into a 2 speed motor. While running on low speed (1725 rpm vs 3450 rpm) it uses approximately 1/4 the watts of running on high speed. So even if you run 9n pow spped for twice as long as presently running on high speed, you can save up to 50% on electricity costs to run the pump.
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Thank you for this good advice. Would a 2 speed motor work with the existing pump, and/or require new timer and other electronics?


setsailsoon said:
Call 3 pool repair services, give them the specs on your motor and ask for a turnkey replace price plus references in your area. Chris
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Chris - great advice and information. Thank you for the thorough reply. When you mention a turnkey replace price - are you talking about replacing the motor or the entire pump? Or let the pool repair company advise?
 
pfitz4 said:
Chris - great advice and information. Thank you for the thorough reply. When you mention a turnkey replace price - are you talking about replacing the motor or the entire pump? Or let the pool repair company advise?
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Fitz, I was talking about the motor only. It's usually much cheaper and if the pump's in good condition the pump should last for several motors. Most of the time they can replace with a rebuilt motor at a much cheaper price than new and this price is about the same as having them rebuild it themselves. Most will not do this anyway they will use an electric shop to rebuild it. Just be sure to replace the seal. If you decide to replace the motor a 2-speed is a good choice to be considered. The perfect pump for you depends on several factors. There's not usually a blanket statement. It depends on your power price, pressure demand, and very importantly your budget.

Good luck and I hope you get through this year with no more cost adders!

Chris
 
A 2speed motor will work with the existing wet end. You need to match the frame size. I believe you would use the same horsepower motor - the hp when running on high speed.

The 2speed motor can be switched from high to low manually with a toggle switch. If you want to get fancy, you can automate changing from high to low with an additional timer. What are you using to turn the pump on/off now. If its an Intermatic T104, you'd use an Intermatic T106 to change speeds.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/T106-T104-600.jpg
 
proavia said:
A 2speed motor will work with the existing wet end. You need to match the frame size. I believe you would use the same horsepower motor - the hp when running on high speed.

The 2speed motor can be switched from high to low manually with a toggle switch. If you want to get fancy, you can automate changing from high to low with an additional timer. What are you using to turn the pump on/off now. If its an Intermatic T104, you'd use an Intermatic T106 to change speeds.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/T106-T104-600.jpg
Click to expand...

Thanks for clarifying. I should have mentioned this, if you go with the 2 speed it requires a pump change also.

Chris
 

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Pool company quoted $450 to replace the motor, mechanical seal, and gasket seal. Motor would be a direct replacement for the 1.5 hp motor we have now.

Their ballpark estimate for installed variable speed pump is $1400. Hayward Super Pump VS.

Thoughts? Do I go short-term fix for $450 (replace motor), or long term solution for $1400 (new VS pump)? How much more energy efficient is the VS option?
 
I don’t have a suggestion which way to go, but just wanted to suggestthat if you decide to replace it to check with your electricity utility as some offer a rebate.

For example, my utility offers a $300 rebate to replace an old pool pump with a new efficient variable speed model.
 
Here's my experience with replacing the motor on a Hayward SuperPump:

When we opened the pool at our new home this summer, the existing 2HP Hayward pump (SP2615X20) had a seized motor and we expected to have to replace it. To our surprise, the installer who set up the new filter and SWG was able to un-seize the motor with a little work and save us the cost of buying a new one. Unfortunately, after a few weeks, the motor started screaming loud while running extremely hot. I tried cleaning the impeller but it did not seem to be an issue of debris--it was the bearings that were shot.


My neighbor recommended a local motor repairman who rebuilds pump motors in his garage shop. I called him up and he offered to swap out the motor for a working one for $100. Took me a little bit of time to get everything disconnected (after shutting off the power, of course) but I was able to unbolt the entire motor and bring it over to the repair shop. This guy reminded me of my grandpa--the kind of person who never throws anything away and will fix just about anything as a matter of principle. He had a huge collection of pump motors and parts ready to go, including an exact match for the circa-2009 2HP Hayward I needed.

So many pump motors...
TvTCTej.jpg


Impressive impeller collection:
UiUTjj8.jpg


The repairman took the time to disassemble my busted motor to show me exactly why these things fail. He commented on the crummy design of the long bolts that inevitably break when removing them to access the bearings. There was clearly corrosion inside the motor case, and applying bench power we could hear it grinding heavily: "Your neighbors must love you," he commented sarcastically.

The rebuilt motor had new bearings, anti-seize on all the bolts, and washers on the screws for the power leads. He powered it on briefly and we could hear the difference immediately--it hummed along with no grinding. To help ensure a longer life, he recommended sealing up the exhaust holes on the motor case when closing the pool for the winter. Apparently bugs and spiders get in there and just lead to more gunk and corrosion.

I paid my hundred bucks (he threw in a replacement skimmer basket as well,) brought home the rebuilt motor, and hooked it back up. Took some time to get the heavy gauge power cables screwed into the terminals cleanly, but I got it eventually and closed everything back up cleanly. I filled the basket with water, closed up the cover, and turned the power back on at the breaker. And once again I have a working pump that won't annoy the neighbors!
 
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