Using the Pool Math Calculator

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nymickey

Well-known member
May 22, 2013
46
Marietta, GA
Pool Size
15000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Turbo Cell (T-CELL-5)
Greetings and Salutations !!!

Full disclosure upfront !!!! I bought a Taylor K-2006 Test Kit a couple of years back but just got lazy and started relying on Leslie's.
Unfortunately, everything they recommend hasn't worked, so like the Prodigal Son, I have returned home to my TFP family.

My water is pretty cloudy ... not really green.

So here is what I got and I am open to any and all advice.

Free Chlorine = 2 (It took 10 drops of R-0871 to turn the sample from pink to colorless so 10 X .2 = 2ppm)
But then I added 5 drops of R-0003 to determine Combined Chlorine and it NEVER turned pink for me so I'm not sure what that means.

pH = 8 (could it even be higher because it was a dark pink)

TA = 90 (It took 9 drops of R-0009 to turn the sample from green to red so 9 X 10 = 90ppm)

Calcium Hardness = 260 (It took 26 drops of R-0012 to turn the sample from red to blue so 26 X 10 = 260ppm) NOTE: not to get anal, but it was more like a pink to blue conversion rather than a true red to blue conversion. Is that a problem?

CYA = 100 (I really only put a little of the mixture into the tube and the black dot disappeared. Could it be even more than 100? Again, not to be anal about this, but when they say the black dot is gone, does it have to be TOTALLY gone because if I looked hard enough I could see a slight indication of it but someone else would probably consider it not visible.

So ... I entered my results into the Pool Math Calculator Table and if I understand it correctly, I need to:
Add 62 oz of 6 weight % bleach
Add 140z of Muriatic Acid - Leslie's always tells me NOT to use MA as it is dangerous for a fiberglass pool
Add Add 35 oz by weight of baking soda
Add Add 222 oz by weight or 177 oz by volume of calcium chloride - not sure what this means but I do have Calcium Hardness Increaser Plus on hand.

Do my test results seem logical?
Should I add everything the Pool Math Calculator indicates? if so, what is the timing sequence?
Lastly, should I do SLAM?

Thanks Everyone !!!
 
You need to get your CYA under control first and that may mean emptying some water.

If you are truly 100 plus on CYA, you need to x5 your chlorine level to 10 at least.

Not turning back to pink means you have no CCs, which is a good thing.

Sorry - You are using the Taylor K-2006 kit so I changed some of my response.
 
If your CYA is 100+ then you will need to remove and replace at least some of the water in the pool. Start now by retesting your CYA but mix your pool test water 50/50 with tap water then double your results. Let us know what you learn and we can go from there.
 
Like the two above me I am going to say you need to get the CYA under control before you move forward. Here is how to test your CYA when it is as high as yours might be:

Add pool water to bottom of sticker.
Add tap water to top of sticker.
Shake.
Pour out half so mixture is to bottom of sticker.
Add reagent to top of sticker.
Shake.
Test outside with back to sun and tube at waist level.
Pour back and forth a few times to see if you get the same result.
Double the result.

When you are doing the test you should only GLANCE to see the dot. Like you saw, if you look for it you will see it. Just GLANCE in then look away and GLANCE again. If you see the dot add water to the next line. We go line by line instead of pouring until you can't see the dot. Just go line by line.

The cloudiness you are seeing means you are about to go back green and we do not want that. With your CYA so high you will have to use a LOT of chlorine to get it back to clear. If it as high as I think it is it will almost be too high to clear your pool.

Let us know what your CYA is when you do the above halving of the water.

Kim:kim:
 
Thanks everyone !!!
New reagents are on the way.
It MAY just be the reagents because I went to Leslie's ( I know ... STUPID !!! ) and they measured it as 60.
One question if I may ... based on my specifics that can be seen in my signature, what are the ideal numbers for me?
My pool brochure (Leisure Pools) has one set, the sticker on my SWCG has another set and that DREADED Leslie's chart has yet another !!!
 
You'll find that many of the pool dealerships, pool stores, and manufactures still seem to refer to some outdated recommended levels. I was having one such discussion with a major manufacturer last week. In any case, the link Kim showed you, and the other links you see below in my sig, will take care of 98% of your needs. Just stick to those. A couple pointers since we both have FB pools:
- You'll see on the Chlorine/CYA Chart that TFP recommends a much higher CYA level (70) for SWG pools. The reason for that is to help your SWG work more efficiently and preserve the FC generated by that SWG when the pump is on. As you can tell from that chart, the only potential downside to having a higher CYA is "IF" you ever get algae :wink:, then it requires more bleach during the SLAM process. But once the algae is clear, that shouldn't be a problem again.
- Our FB pools don't have calcium in them like a plaster pool does, so if your CH dips a little low it's okay. But our FB pools can develop calcium scale if the CH gets too high, so if you ever see the CH level growing & growing and have a concern, let us know.
- Once you get your refills, post a new set of test results and we'll go through them together.

Oh, one last thing ........ :grin:
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