Newby in need of advice balancing

[Cornhuskerfan]

This is our first season with our new pool build. Pool service contract is up and we are tackling this on our own .

Around 5 days ago, although the pool was clear and healthy looking, the meter was showing salt at 2800ppm. Since this was the lowest reading after our contractor left, I figured it needed a bag of salt. So I threw in a 40lb bag of Sun Gems...

Now.....

Water is turning green but seems to be fairly clear. Only thing I've done today is started running the pump for 12 hours and boosted the chlorinator to 6% hoping to increase the chlorine level...

Here are today's test results..

FC~ 0
CC~0.2
ph~7.6
TA~100ppm
CH~400
CYA~80 (greater than 80 actually, dot really never disappeared)
Salt~3300ppm

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you,

Jeff & Marie

 

[Cornhuskerfan]

It's our first day on this site, big learning process . Found the pool math calculator, which instructed us to add 86oz of bleach, so we went with that.

Hope we're on the right track.

 

[Richard320]

If the pool is turning green and you show no Chlorine, you probably have algae starting.

86 ounces of bleach is good for a clear pool. If it is algae, that bleach will be gone almost as fast as it hits the water.

What you need is a SLAM Process -- Shock Level And Maintain. That means lotsa bleach and lotsa brushing so you kill the algae faster than it can reproduce. If you get on it fast, before the water gets murky, you'll get rid of it a lot faster and a lot cheaper.

You may want to start by replacing some water to lower CYA. You can figure out just how high your CYA is by using the dilution method Note 8 here. Yes, you'll lose some of that salt you just put in, but the savings in bleach will likely exceed the cost of more salt.

 

[proavia]

Hi - welcome to TFP

I see in your signature you list a Taylor 2004b testkit. As far as I can tell, a Taylor 2004b is a booklet that comes with some Taylor testkits. Please update your signature with the correct testkit number.

Also, please explain you note after your CYA reading of ~80... was the dot still visible at 80? 90? 70?
Using a "~" when listing your test results leads many of us to think you mean the result is "approximately", "near" or "about" whatever you listed. Using a "-" instead is a better way to space it out.

Richard has you pointed in the correct direction. You will probably need to SLAM Process
As you may have already read elsewhere on the site, a SWG is great for maintaining a FC level when the pool is clear and algae free - but not so good at raising the FC level when it's low or has visible algae. Using bleach is the best way to raise FC quickly.

 

[Cornhuskerfan]

proavia, I've updated my test kit info, you were correct. The CYA testing tube doesn't have a reading past 80 and yes the dot was still visible. I use the ~ key because as literal as I am every test seems approximate to me.

Thank you both for your wisdom. As soon as this storm passes I will begin the SLAM process right away.

Regarding the SWG, will running it at a certain percentage help in this SLAM process while the pump is running 24 hrs?

 

[triptyx]

If the dot was still visible, you have a CYA level that is higher than 80. Could be 90, could be 120. This is an important number for your SLAM - you need a "good" CYA reading to maintain the appropriate shock level.

You could start by trying the "Dilution" test to get a rough idea (dilution really reduces the accuracy of an already inaccurate test). Mix tap water and pool water 50/50 in a cup, then use that cup as your water sample. Multiply the resulting CYA test results by 2 and let us know what you get.

 

[proavia]

Does the CYA test in the K2006 work differently than the TF-100? I didn't think it did.....

In the TF-100, if the dot is still visible at 80 it means I have LESS the 80 CYA. So I fill the tube more - to 70 - and look again. If dot still visible I fill more - to 60 - and check again... etc, etc. CYA level in the TF-100 kit is when the dot disappears - if it's still visible, I need to add more solution (50/50 mix of pool water/R-0013) to arrive at a lower number for CYA. The more you fill the tube, the LOWER the CYA level (until the dot dispappears).

 

[Cornhuskerfan]

Does the CYA test in the K2006 work differently than the TF-100? I didn't think it did.....

In the TF-100, if the dot is still visible at 80 it means I have LESS the 80 CYA. So I fill the tube more - to 70 - and look again. If dot still visible I fill more - to 60 - and check again... etc, etc. CYA level in the TF-100 kit is when the dot disappears - if it's still visible, I need to add more solution (50/50 mix of pool water/R-0013) to arrive at a lower number for CYA. The more you fill the tube, the LOWER the CYA level (until the dot dispappears).

I'm sure it works exactly the same as yours. We are idiots. The top number on the testing tube is 30, we thought it was 80... Therefore our CYA is less than 30, where it is I don't know.

 

[Cornhuskerfan]

I gave up and went to Leslie's, just to verify my numbers and the pool is getting greener by the day. What an experience that was and I am determined to get to be a professional at this so I don't have to do business with them in the future.

Anyhow, keeping in mind that we've had 3 inches of rain since my testing 2 day's ago, these are the results from the spaz at Leslie's..

FC - 0
TC- 0
Salt- 2800
CH- 200
CA- 0
TA- 80
ph- 7.6
Copper- 0
Iron- 0
Phosphates- 250

He sold me $80 worth of materials, 3lbs of shock and 8lbs of conditioner. I guess we all learn valuable lessons.

Off to brush the algae.

 

[Cornhuskerfan]

As I'm reading the SLAM information, it states to add bleach to attain a certain shock level? What are these 1lb bags of shock supposed to be doing? Another question, it states that if CYA is 60 to shock the FC to 24, what if the CYA is 0?

Here are the latest test results after brushing, vacuuming, and adding 3 1lb bags of shock and in the process of adding conditioner via sock.

FC- 12
CC- 0
ph- 7.0
TA- 90
CH- 330
CYA- ? (still less than 30)

I can't seem to get the FC to at least 24 after all the above.

Any help, thank you!

 

[Richard320]

If CYA is zero, shock level is 10 FC.

You tell me what are these 1lb bags of shock supposed to be doing. Is it Cal-hypo, dichlor, trichlor, lithium hypochlorite, or monopersulfate? All those products are sold under the generic term "shock." So tell us, what are you adding to the pool besides chlorine? CYA, Calcium, MPS? You're adding something besides just chlorine - even bleach leaves salt behind. Do you need these extra additives? Do you even know what they are? This is why we recommend plain bleach.

If FC is 12 now, you're okay. Once CYA starts reading 30 , the shock level is 12 FC. And it goes up from there. I wouldn't recommend taking CYA any higher than 30 until after the SLAM is finished.

 

[Cornhuskerfan]

If CYA is zero, shock level is 10 FC.

You tell me what are these 1lb bags of shock supposed to be doing. Is it Cal-hypo, dichlor, trichlor, lithium hypochlorite, or monopersulfate? All those products are sold under the generic term "shock." So tell us, what are you adding to the pool besides chlorine? CYA, Calcium, MPS? You're adding something besides just chlorine - even bleach leaves salt behind. Do you need these extra additives? Do you even know what they are? This is why we recommend plain bleach.

If FC is 12 now, you're okay. Once CYA starts reading 30 , the shock level is 12 FC. And it goes up from there. I wouldn't recommend taking CYA any higher than 30 until after the SLAM is finished.

I suppose it's killing bacteria and algae. 73% Hypochlorite, 27% Other. The only other thing I've added and continuing to add is conditioner, 99% Cyanuric Acid. If I'm adding anything else, which I suppose I am, I have no idea. That's why I'm here. To learn.

Regarding adding the CYA, the store clerk want's me to eventually have this 8lb bucket in there over time (3 days). I'm guessing you don't like that idea?

 

[Alex_H]

I suppose it's killing bacteria and algae. 73% Hypochlorite, 27% Other. The only other thing I've added and continuing to add is conditioner, 99% Cyanuric Acid. If I'm adding anything else, which I suppose I am, I have no idea. That's why I'm here. To learn.

Regarding adding the CYA, the store clerk want's me to eventually have this 8lb bucket in there over time (3 days). I'm guessing you don't like that idea?

Plenty of people here will have lots of advice for you on the particulars, but one think I noted:

Your pool is turning green (algae forming)
Your SWG is at 6%
Your FC is 0

You have no chlorine and you are only running your SWG at 6%?

If your CYA is 0, your chlorine is going to burn off constantly. It sounds like you have no idea how to read your tests (not judging, I would just keep reminding people of that or they'll treat it as precise). Read on SLAM, do a SLAM, people here will advice you on how to do a SLAM (it works).

But when Free Chlorine goes to zero the algae starts. With a SWG, you should never be at 0. Part of SLAM: run your pump 24 hours a day. I suggest letting your SWG run high enough to produce enough chlorine, and just add more if it can't keep up, but no reason to have your chlorinator off when your pool has no chlorine and your pool is green.

 

[aussieta]

the hypochlorite i am guessing will be calhypo which will be adding calcium
as you are already at 400ch i would not want any more
with the cya the 8lb bucket will bring you up to around 60cya
i would aim for half the bucket now and the other half after your water is tfp clear

 

[Cornhuskerfan]

Plenty of people here will have lots of advice for you on the particulars, but one think I noted:

Your pool is turning green (algae forming)
Your SWG is at 6%
Your FC is 0

You have no chlorine and you are only running your SWG at 6%?

If your CYA is 0, your chlorine is going to burn off constantly. It sounds like you have no idea how to read your tests (not judging, I would just keep reminding people of that or they'll treat it as precise). Read on SLAM, do a SLAM, people here will advice you on how to do a SLAM (it works).

But when Free Chlorine goes to zero the algae starts. With a SWG, you should never be at 0. Part of SLAM: run your pump 24 hours a day. I suggest letting your SWG run high enough to produce enough chlorine, and just add more if it can't keep up, but no reason to have your chlorinator off when your pool has no chlorine and your pool is green.

Prior to taking over the pool, the SWG was running at 4% and the balance was perfect. When you say "just add more" I'm assuming increase the percentage? How high would you recommend I go on that percentage? Super Chlorinate?

 

[aussieta]

i run my swg at eighty percent for 7 hours during swim season
and 4 hours at fifty percent during winter (we never get snow where i am)
if you know what cell you have you can calculate a starting point quite accurately

 

[Cornhuskerfan]

i run my swg at eighty percent for 7 hours during swim season
and 4 hours at fifty percent during winter (we never get snow where i am)
if you know what cell you have you can calculate a starting point quite accurately

Thanks for the info aussieta. I'll look into what cell I have, all I know is it's a Blue Haven product not much other information on the outside of it.

 

[Cornhuskerfan]

Plenty of people here will have lots of advice for you on the particulars, but one think I noted:

Your pool is turning green (algae forming)
Your SWG is at 6%
Your FC is 0

You have no chlorine and you are only running your SWG at 6%?

If your CYA is 0, your chlorine is going to burn off constantly. It sounds like you have no idea how to read your tests (not judging, I would just keep reminding people of that or they'll treat it as precise). Read on SLAM, do a SLAM, people here will advice you on how to do a SLAM (it works).

But when Free Chlorine goes to zero the algae starts. With a SWG, you should never be at 0. Part of SLAM: run your pump 24 hours a day. I suggest letting your SWG run high enough to produce enough chlorine, and just add more if it can't keep up, but no reason to have your chlorinator off when your pool has no chlorine and your pool is green.

Alex H, I understand what you're saying and thank you as well. I'm getting a handle on things I think, but to be frank, this has been like absorbing information through a fire hose for someone who doesn't have a basic chemistry background. Do I know how to test? Yes. Do I know how to read tests? Not the best.

Regarding the SLAM, I read up on it and watched the video but frankly got overwhelmed. Went to the pool store instead which isn't the popular thing to do around here. But it's where I'm at so I might as well try and make it work. The chlorinator is running a 6% because that's where the pool guy had it when he left a month ago and things were fine. I've jacked it up and will check the numbers again tomorrow.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Keep your head up Cornhusker. I'm new at this too, as was everyone else on the board. Everyone that has responded is just trying to help you through this. A couple of the main principles behind tfpc are avoiding advice from pool stores and taking charge of your own testing and water chemistry. It's not necessarily that pool store advice is bad, it just does not play well with the trouble free pool care methods. Keep in mind, no one here is trying to sell you anything.

Best of luck,

Mike

 

[Cornhuskerfan]

Keep your head up Cornhusker. I'm new at this too, as was everyone else on the board. Everyone that has responded is just trying to help you through this. A couple of the main principles behind tfpc are avoiding advice from pool stores and taking charge of your own testing and water chemistry. It's not necessarily that pool store advice is bad, it just does not play well with the trouble free pool care methods. Keep in mind, no one here is trying to sell you anything.

Best of luck,

Mike

Thanks for the encouragement Mike.