IC40 in cold weather

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When you get the 20%, pressing More again should toggle back and forth between Life and Temperature.

When you first press More, what does the Cold Water Light show? It should be blank, green, blinking red or solid red.
 
It took me a while, but here is a video of using the More button.
https://www.screencast.com/t/SMNMjFJ5SN
You will need to let this buffer up some. If it stops in the middle just click pause, then play again.

The quick presses did not give me a temperature reading, but maybe was setting production %? (I always do that through screenlogic.) Pressing the Less button got me back to 20%.

So how new are the units with temp. readout?
 
That is why I shared the video, because at times it can be any of the options except green. Initially after pressing the button it is blank while other lights are flashing. Then there is a second of solid red and then flashing red. So it depends on the definition of "When you first press More". :)
 
Another call to Pentair. They said iClor is only one that reports temperature to user. Intellichlor is what I have (IC40). They said Intellichlor has always had temperature sensor but never reports it to user. So I assume JamesW was talking about iClor.

A quick google of iClor vs. Intellichlor did not give any comparisons.
 
I mean the intellichlor. In any case, the salinity is not reading correctly and I would suggest a warranty claim or just swap out the sensor yourself or get a 10k thermistor and put it in the pipe and wire that to the thermistor wires or raise the salinity until the cell works.

I think that your salinity will be much more accurate with a new thermistor.

The Pentair, Hayward and Jandy/Zodiac 10k temperature sensors are all similar. You can use any one of those or a generic.

The flow switch contains two parts. A flow switch and a temperature sensor. If you replace the part, you have two sets of wires. One set goes to the temperature sensor and the other set of wires goes to the flow switch.

The temperature sensor is the only bad part. So, you can just use a different sensor and wire it in without removing the old flow switch.

This will probably void the warranty so don't do it if that matters to you.

HAYWARD GLX-PC-12-KIT GOLDLINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR - 15 FT

https://pentairpool.com/~/media/websites/pool/downloads/sanitizers/manuals/intellichlor_flow_switch_replacement_kit_installation_guide_english.pdf

You can test the temperature sensor by cutting the green and white wires to measure the resistance of the thermistor. It should match a 10k thermistor chart. For example, at 77F, the resistance should be 10,000 ohms (10k ohms).
 
A final update to this thread. My IC40 ultimately stopped reporting any salinity, i.e. 0. At that point the local Pentair rep sent service out to replace it. They did not even check the flow switch, just replaced the entire unit. He said he had replaced more units this spring than in the last 5 years combined, so there must have been a bad batch. Even replacing the flow switch sometimes did not fix it, so they don't even check it.

Bill.
 
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