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Thread: pool light and swtich issue

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Houston, TX
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    pool light and swtich issue

    Hello to all,

    I'm visiting my brother in P. AZ, and he has an issue w his pool light not working.

    Enclosed are pics of the make/model of light and the switch.

    Here's what I know:

    -When you press the switch, it does not stay in either position, it cannot lock in either on or off
    -Light has never worked, has had house for 4 yrs [not noted on orig inspection]
    -The switch has 4 wires:
    *the red wire is terminated into wire nut [not used]
    *the white is tied into 2 neutrals on top
    *the blue wire is attached to the black wire on top - the black wire is from the conduit feeding the switch
    *the black wire is tied to a red wire going down the conduit w the switches.

    This was all wired by the previous owner that was supposed to have been an electrician [cannot contact him].

    I don't have access to volt/ohm meter, but trying to seek advice from you guys to determine what could be the problem?

    Since the switch seems to be bad [it will not stay locked in either on or off, like it's lost it's locking ability], I'm thinking to replace the switch. If so, does anyone have a recommendation on a make/model and how the wiring on the proposed switch should be attached to current wiring? let me know if you have any questions or need add's pics?

    Thank you and pls advise,
    tstex
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  2. Back To Top    #2

    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Re: pool light and swtich issue

    With a 3-way switch, I was thinking there had to be something else otherwise the switch would have been a single pole...here what he has inside house...anyone seen one of these before?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    InGround 15K gal, 18'x30' 3.5' to 5.5' depth w/ 9'x9' spillover Spa, Pebblesheen w/ Travertine, Hayward 3 HP VSP, Hayward C4030 Cartridge, Hayward 1.5 HP for 2 Scupper columns, ProLogic, PL-PS-8 Panel, Hayward H400FD 400K BTU Heater, 3 ColorLogic LED, Spa Blower, TF-100 w S-Stick, QC Tiger Shark, Autofill If you enjoyed your TFP experience, please consider donating to Support TFP!

  3. Back To Top    #3

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    Re: pool light and swtich issue

    It’s an old school X10 system. If you pry the cover off the switch you will see two dials. One is the house code A - P the next will be a unit code 1 - 16. The remote is used to turn the associated switch on/off.
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  4. Back To Top    #4

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    Re: pool light and swtich issue

    X-10 is an older technology that use existing home wiring ie your 120 volt primary wires as a remote control for devices.

    It sends a low voltage signal to trigger another x-10 device. So 1 X-10 remote and 1 or many x-10 receivers.

    In your case I would ditch the x-10 and just use a standard 120 on/off switch or a spring timer switch were you can set a time 30 to 60 minutes for the lights to stay on.

    So the wiring should be (leave the whites together) and then attach the black to the switch -0- or power in and power out.

    Just turn the breaker off and swap out the switch with a $3.00 simple switch - then if needed replace the bulb. Just make sure the niche is underwater when you test it.

    b
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