Diverter Replacement Project

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Modawg2k

Modawg2k

0
May 4, 2013
347
Phoenix, AZ
So I cracked my diverter earlier today trying to repair my valve. Here's a pic of my diverter. I have a few questions

1. Am I able to buy any brand name's diverter as long as the measurements are the same? Or does it have to be the same brand? Any idea on the brand of this? Most of my products are Pentair.
2. What size diverter am I looking for? The elbows say 2" so I'm guessing the diverter is 1.5"?
3. There's no way around having to replace a bunch of the connectors correct? Looks like I'll be getting elbows, slip covers on all 3 sides.... I barely have any room to work with on each side.

 
The 3way valve I broke I replaced with this one. I like it.
Amazon.com : Pentair 263037 3-Way PVC 1-1/2 inch (2 inch slip outside) Pool And Spa Diverter Valve : Swimming Pool Filter Valves : Garden Outdoor

jandy and hayword mack good stuff also I mix and match some stuff because of price points.

To help the next time one brakes use these of the ones at your local hardware store. This way you dont have to keep cutting the pipes till there flush to the ground. It helps in the long run.

https://www.amazon.com/Hayward-SP14982S-2-Inch-Socket-Female/dp/B0038ER6W0/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1519525047&sr=8-22&keywords=hayward+pvc+union
 
callahan3 said:
The 3way valve I broke I replaced with this one. I like it.
Amazon.com : Pentair 263037 3-Way PVC 1-1/2 inch (2 inch slip outside) Pool And Spa Diverter Valve : Swimming Pool Filter Valves : Garden Outdoor

jandy and hayword mack good stuff also I mix and match some stuff because of price points.

To help the next time one brakes use these of the ones at your local hardware store. This way you dont have to keep cutting the pipes till there flush to the ground. It helps in the long run.

https://www.amazon.com/Hayward-SP14982S-2-Inch-Socket-Female/dp/B0038ER6W0/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1519525047&sr=8-22&keywords=hayward+pvc+union
Click to expand...

Thanks, I actually just ordered the Pentair unit that you linked to just before reading your message. And it's a good idea with the union fittings. I have those on my Intellichlor, which I just replaced and it's an easy plug and play situation.

For cutting so many pipes, is something recommended more than just a hand saw? I'm not looking forward to the cutting part, especially if there are tiny parts that need cut.
 
callahan3 said:
I use a reciprocating saw on cutting the valve out an rough cutting the pipe but hand saw on final cuts it’s smother and safe on short cuts. Good luck
Click to expand...

Thanks, I went ahead and purchased a Dewalt reciprocating saw on amazon also. I've long needed a saw so I bit the bullet with some holiday gift cards.

Some of these connecting pipes that I'll have to cut might be like 3 or 4" in long. What's the best way to cut them with a hand saw. Should I be getting some sort of clamps?
 
I’ve had good luck cutting a slit in the elbows parallel to the pipes then heating them with a heat gun and peeling them off. You have to clean up the ends of the pipes with sandpaper afterwards but it works pretty well. Cut the valve out of the way 1st to make things easier.
 
I want to add unions to help in the future. Do I have the ability to add them on my cleaning side? As you can see, I don't have much room and the elbow goes straight on the diverter so if I add a union, I'm guessing my Cleaning pipe would have to angle out a bit give some extra space for the union. Any issues anyone can see with doing that?

 
Modawg2k said:
I want to add unions to help in the future. Do I have the ability to add them on my cleaning side? As you can see, I don't have much room and the elbow goes straight on the diverter so if I add a union, I'm guessing my Cleaning pipe would have to angle out a bit give some extra space for the union. Any issues anyone can see with doing that?

Click to expand...

Watching this thread because you are going to have the same issue on that side labeled "water feature" that I have...lack of room. Looks like you have plenty of room on the Cleaning System side for unions and the line in from the front has room but you will have to add it before the 90.
 
Here’s a few pics from further away and on the other side. I do plan on re-plumbing the entire side that feeds from the Intellichlor since I have the unions from my recent Intellichlor purchase.
Also pay no attention to that crappy backwash set up. I will be redoing it soon also

e527213367f29718bc36e856c5a2262c.jpg
b515b26ae5d10cfbb6296a3745eaaba9.jpg
4236d5277ae2104c688785c583cfe304.jpg
 

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Funny you should say that. I actually took the general contractor for my backyard (Who subcontracted out the pool build) to the registrar of contractors and won a settlement because of everything that was jacked up including the pool build.
 
The repair on the water feature side actually will be easier than I thought. I forgot that I actually remove the flapper in the two way valve because having the flapper in there caused my water feature to retain water after it was off. So really I can cut this out altogether and not worry about saving that valve
c0efd0c9026ed1d635292f1f759c899e.jpg
 
kadavis said:
The valve is a Pentair Compool 2-1/2" x 2" 3 port. The elbow labeled cleaning system is 2-1/2" I can't tell but the pipe going down also looks to be 2-1/2"
Click to expand...

Dang you are right, I didn't catch that. Can I still swap out for the Pentair 263037 3-Way PVC 1-1/2 inch (2 inch slip outside) (http://a.co/6NHbG87)? I obviously have to adjust for that size adjustment on the cleaning side because you are right about that pipe probably being 2-1/2" vs the others being 2".
 

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