Salt cell questions, sand filter 3 ?s

I would get the salt right first and then see if the salinity is correct on both polarities.

Get a k-1766 salt test because it is the best test.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

I suspect that, based on the age and different salinity readings on different polarities, that you will probably need a new cell but let's confirm first.

So should I buy shock?

Or liquid chlorine ?

I added a 40 pound bag today
 
SWCG's switch polarities to clean the scale off the cell plates. Timing of the switch is inherent to the manufacturer.
 
One side of the plates produces chlorine gas and one side produces hydrogen gas. The side that produces hydrogen gas tends to build up scale due to high pH near the plates.

The side that produces chlorine gas has low pH and tends to dissolve calcium carbonate scale.

By switching polarity, the plates stay cleaner.

It's also important to know that the salinity reading in diagnostics takes a few seconds to stabilize. It starts high and slowly stabilizes over about 10 seconds.
 
This is what it shows when checking for polarity setting etc

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Level looking a little better

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But then once it tell me info it does this

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When the salinity is at 2,700 ppm a low salt warning is displayed. At 2,400 ppm, the system shuts off due to low salinity.

If the cell is going bad, the salinity will read lower than actual.

So, your salinity might be low or the cell might be bad or a combination of both.

Right now, you need to be really sure about the actual salinity and get it to 3200 ppm before trying the system again.

If you had a new cell or knew that your cell was good, then you could usually trust the system reading.

However, the cell is old and should not be trusted for an accurate salinity reading until it can be confirmed to be accurate by an independent test kit, such as the k-1766.
 
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