DE Filter Leakage Suspected.

[RASelkirk]

Hi All,

I recently had my Hayward 3620 apart to replace the elements after 12 years because I was seeing what looked like filter material in the pool. The old elements were not ripped, but I did find the nut that holds it all together was rotted off. This (may have) allowed the filter bundle to be displaced upward enough during use to let some of the DE leak past the 8 stub connections. Now that it's all back together and running, I'm still seeing some light beige "dust" on the floor and in low-circ spots. I did a rough inspection on all the plastic and didn't see any cracks. I'm not even sure it's DE I'm seeing but wouldn't have a clue what else it could be, and it's only been the past 6 or 8 months. Any other ideas?

Russ

 

[Jimrahbe]

Russ,

This summer I too had the nuts rot/rust off of two different DE filters.

If not DE, then I would have to suspect algae.. What are your test numbers?

Thanks,

Jim R,

 

[RASelkirk]

Numbers are OK, TH=100, TC=10, FC=10, PH=7.2, TA=80, CY=0. They are off a smidge, the water is down to 52°. I've never had visible algae since going to DE about 12 yrs ago so I may have to pull this down again and look at the guts a bit more closely...

Russ

 

[Jimrahbe]

Russ,

I know it is not what you asked about, but I suggest that when the Spring gets here you adjust your CYA to about 70. Doing this will allow you to run your SWCG at a lot lower percentage of output.

Just curious... What percent your normal run in the summer and how many hours a day do you run your pump?

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[RASelkirk]

Jim,

Currently running 6 hrs at 40% (just over minimum turnover), I normally run 10 hrs at 60% and am able to maintain 5 ppms FC when the water is over 90°. One funky thing about the salt, it takes a huuuuge amount of CYA to maintain any kind of visible (on strip) level. OTOH, when I take a sample in to my pool shop, they always show 15 to 20 ppm's when my strip test shows zero. I've about given up on trying to "show" CY on my tests, I don't even worry about it now. I've dumped as much as 20# at a time to barely show 50 ppm's and it's gone in a couple weeks...

Russ

 

[cfherrman]

Test strips and pool store testing.........

 

[RASelkirk]

Test strips and pool store testing.........

OK, I'll bite. Tell me what this means...

Russ

 

[mknauss]

Neither are accurate.

Get your own proper test kit so you can maintain a clean and sanitary pool.

 

[Jimrahbe]

OK, I'll bite. Tell me what this means...

Russ

Russ,

I think that cf, was just making fun because you have been a member since 2015 and still use Pool Store tests and test strips. If there is anything this site is known for, besides being the best pool website in existence, it is the we are pretty firm in our negative opinion of those two testing methods.

We call test strips... Guess strips because that is about how accurate they are. We are not a fan of Pool Store testing as it is more often wrong than not. If you take your pool water to three different pool stores, you are most likely to get three different results.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[cfherrman]

OK, I'll bite. Tell me what this means...

Russ

Other guys just about have it right, except the mobile site does not show location or join date.

If you want to know exactly what's in your pool, such as CYA, you need a Taylor test kit either to 100 or 2006c. If your CYA keep disappearing you have some serious problems such as ammonia or a pool leak, or it's just that test strips don't work and pool stores don't either.

 

[RASelkirk]

Ah, OK. Guess I'm still learning. I'll assume you're speaking of the "liquid" test kits. I've used them before and haven't see much difference, other than they're more labor intensive and the reagents need to be replaced every year. I've been lucky in that my little pool doesn't require much effort to maintain...

Russ