Is my pump motor power supply 1 or 2 phase?

[JamesW]

If a 220v motor is wired to 110, it will run at half speed.

The speed of a motor is determined by the frequency and number of poles and the slip.

A 2 pole motor runs at 3,600 rpm unloaded and about 3450 under load. The difference is caused by "slip".

A 4 pole motor runs at 1,800 rpm unloaded and about 1,725 loaded.

If the voltage is too low, slip will increase and cause the motor to run more slowly but it's not accurate to say that at half voltage the speed is half.

In this case, I think that it's just bad bearings from a leaky seal. The pump might have run dry but it might be due to a cheap seal. Cheap seals do not last very long. When replacing a pump seal, it pays to get the good quality ones.

I think that the pump is probably wired properly. It looks like it's wired for 230 and is getting 230.

The booster pump timer should be tied into the pump timer. If the booster can be turned on with the main pump off, then it's wired incorrectly.

 

[mas985]

If the voltage is low, I think that it will run. I will try it when I get a chance.

Both over voltage and under voltage increases the current in an induction motor. Running at half voltage will more than double the current (drop in efficiency) which will likely exceed the rating of the motor. I wouldn't do this unless you don't care much about the motor or you have a separated unloaded motor. If loaded, the breaker will likely trip but if it doesn't the motor will quickly overheat and trip the thermal limiter. If it doesn't have one, the motor will most certainly burn up if it is loaded (i.e. pumping water). Also, under load it may stall and not even start because starting torque goes down by a lot.

 

[msdunkel]

The speed of a motor is determined by the frequency and number of poles and the slip.

A 2 pole motor runs at 3,600 rpm unloaded and about 3450 under load. The difference is caused by "slip".

A 4 pole motor runs at 1,800 rpm unloaded and about 1,725 loaded.

If the voltage is too low, slip will increase and cause the motor to run more slowly but it's not accurate to say that at half voltage the speed is half.

In this case, I think that it's just bad bearings from a leaky seal. The pump might have run dry but it might be due to a cheap seal. Cheap seals do not last very long. When replacing a pump seal, it pays to get the good quality ones.

I think that the pump is probably wired properly. It looks like it's wired for 230 and is getting 230.

The booster pump timer should be tied into the pump timer. If the booster can be turned on with the main pump off, then it's wired incorrectly.

I appreciate all the responses, I am confident there are no wiring or electrical problems with my last pump motor, just a leak which trashed the motor. BTW, my boost pump is wired as you stated -- if the main pump is not on the boost pump won't run either.

 

[JamesW]

Deleted.

 

[tstex]

Not pointing fingers, but proper maintenance and knowledge of your pool operability certainly reiterates the saying:

"You can pay me now [a little[ or you can pay me [a lot] later...The value this site provides, however, is identifying and fixing your problems as well as how to maintain your pool once you've achieved an optimal operating status.

The OP had a few good sayings, esp "the pool company is teaching me to learn about my pool quickly". But let me tell you, there's a lot of Dr's where I live and I heard the ole proverbial comment that of a Dr complaining to a plumber about his charges. Dr said, "$500 for that plumbing fix, I don't even charge that much for 20 min's work". Plumber, "yea, I didn't charge that much when I was a Dr either".

Merry Christmas,
tstex

 

[msdunkel]

update: both pumps replaced without too much headache. I went with flexible 3/4" hose on the booster pump as recommended by Heyward, and it appears the 3/4" pvc I originally had installed is a mm smaller than 3/4", or the adapter I purchased to mate the flexible with the existing pvc is a mm larger than 3/4", because even after properly priming/gluing and then adding a couple layers of flexseal I've still got an annoying drip where I did the plumbing. The drip is tiny and won't have any negative effect on my pumps or pool, but it is annoying the stuff out of me so I'll probably try and replumb at some point in the future.

 

[JamesW]

Do you have a picture?

 

[msdunkel]

Do you have a picture?

This was the recommended kit: Amazon.com: Hayward 6060HKIT Hose Replacement Kit for Hayward Booster Pump: Garden Outdoor

The flanged end is forced into the flexible tube leaving a female threaded end to connect to my existing PVC. I purchased a male threaded/female 3/4" coupler to match up to my existing 3/4" pvc. The leak is not at the threads, it is where the 3/4" female coupler joins with the 3/4" PVC. When I did the dry fit it was very loose -- as in almost no friction at all. I hoped that using enough primer and glue would do the trick but after letting the glue dry I had a pretty major leak. I've since put about 6 coats of flexseal over the junction and the leak is now an annoying drip. It was never my intention to use flexseal but I'm lazy and don't want to take it all apart and start over. Of course if I'd done that in the 1st place it would've taken less time and money than my repeated trips out back with the can of flexseal and another disposable foam brush to apply it!

Here are pics of the plumbing: (PS, I hit some kid of quota, couldn't post both pics)

 

[cfherrman]

If the drip is small enough, you can try to give it some time to seal it self

 

[tstex]

If the drip is small enough, you can try to give it some time to seal it self

I'm not sure if this is the correct approach, but if you have a lot of Calcium in your water, you might get this.

For me, when I do projects, I over measure, draw out, spec out and then do it again, primarily both plumbing and electrical. these trades are way less forgiving than carpentry or similar. This is the only way I can be fully prepared. Good luck, tstex