Tempeatue sensor failinng

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setsailsoon

setsailsoon

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TFP Guide
Oct 25, 2015
5,189
Palm City/FL
Pool Size
25000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Folks,

My pool is a 2013 build. My automation and equipment are Jandy and the temperature sensor has failed twice so I'm getting about 2 years on the sensor. Works pretty well up to the very end then temp readings go up from normal to about normal plus 10 deg F then + 20 deg F then it fails with no reading. Is this normal for these sensors? It's very easy to fix and not too bad on cost (about $20 for generic 10K thermister, $40 for name brand) but I'd sure like to get a more reliable unit. The generic version seems to have lasted exactly the same amount of time as the name brand.

Thanks.

Chris
 
This is not pool experience, but in the commercial greenhouse business we had thousands of thermistors in many different climates and configurations for sensing air, water, soil and soil surface, motor and other equipment temps. We put a lot of effort into various different quality heat-shrinks, epoxies, shrouds, wells, etc. and still 2 years or so was about normal. Fully shielded from the sun, and in air, we would occasionally get longer, even up to 4 or 5 years sometimes. Anything with moisture was 2 to 3 years on average. And they always failed exactly as you say, by starting to read warm with a gradual rise. Anywhere critical we put two side by side and let the control system tell us when one was drifting out of line with the other. There were higher priced alternatives, but nothing that cost less in the long run than swapping them out.
 
Whether you purchase the name brand or generic, it's the same product from the same place, China. I think it's one of those products designed to fail on a regular basis.
 
Wow! That's pretty consistent, from Australia to FL about the same experience. Thanks so much for the interesting feedback. Looks like I'll just continue to keep one of the Chinese type on hand as a standby and rig up a junction box close to the probe location so replacement is easier.

Best regards,

Chris
 
Yeah you can cut the wire anywhere and splice the new one in instead of threading it all the way back to the panel. Use the silicone filled type of splicers for the connections to make it water tight.
 
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