Pump Shuts Off After 10 Seconds

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L

LakiRed

0
Aug 24, 2017
31
Tucson
So I replaced my old motor with a used one that a member here was getting rid of (Super II 1.5 HP). It's an older unit that had been sitting out for at least a few months. A touch of WD40 got it spinning fine and the gasket and o-rings all looked serviceable. I have it installed now, but when I turn it on it growls a little loud at first and runs for about 10 or so seconds before shutting off. I'm guessing this is its internal thermal protector? It does feel hot to the touch afterward. During that 10 seconds it is blowing through the filter, at least. No breakers are tripping. Any troubleshooting tips, or is this motor dead? Thanks!
 
Replace just the motor if the wet end is good.

A two speed motor replacement might be economical.

Take care.
 
Hi LakiRed,

If you are wanting to replace the motor with the same single speed motor then you will need to double check the Service Factor (SF) from your motor label. If your SF is 1.0 then you will need this UST1152 1.5 HP Up Rated Replacement Motor if your SF is 1.5 then you will need this ST1152 1.5 HP Full Rated Replacement Motor. Regardless if you have an Up Rate or Full Rate Motor you will also need this Hayward Super II Seal Kit when you do your motor replacement. Finally here is a Video on How to Replace a Pool Pump Motor which you may find helpful when you tackle this job.
 
If you do replace the motor, I would go with a two speed. It will cost a bit more upfront but will pay for itself and more in the long run.
 
Thanks for the helpful replies! My original issue had been with my Super II chassis. I was given a replacement Super II unit from someone here on the forums, but the motor for that didn't work (as posted here in this thread) and my old pump didn't fit that chassis. The SF on the broken motor (that does fit the currently installed chassis) is 1.33 (Model: K48M2N123 / SP-1615-Z1-BEE, the listed frame is 56J). I'm entirely new to all of this pool pump hardware business, so if anyone has suggestions on what would be the most economical (short and/or long term) replacement, and where to get it, I'd be very appreciative.
 

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See Post #8.

Check with InyoPools for the most economical method of replacing electric motor.

Take care.
 
Hi LakiRed,

You have 3 options for replacement and it all really comes down to how much you want to spend up front vs. the ongoing operational costs.

The least expensive up front cost would be staying with your current ST1152 Single Speed Motor ($247)

The next option is a 1.5 HP Dual Speed Motor with Digital Control ($392) the Dual Speed Motor gives you the ability to run the pump on a low HP which costs a fraction of the cost of the high HP but you still have the option of the high HP for vacuuming, backwashing, running water features, etc..

The final option is a 1.65 HP Variable Speed Replacement Motor ($399) The Variable Speed Motor allows you to dial into the exact RPM you would like to run the motor anywhere between 600 RPM to 3450 RPM, once again you can run this motor on a low speed for general filtration and this will save you a ton on operational costs as this is the HP the motor will run on 80% of the time, but you still have the ability to dial the HP up to run water features or vacuum. The variable speed does require that you have a yellow dial timer or a control system to operate the motor. In general I would estimate you would save at least 50% on your operational costs with a variable speed motor.

We put together a Video On Installing a Variable Speed Motor which you may find helpful as well. I personally have a variable speed motor on my pool and that would be my suggestion as I really like it.
 
patrick3229 said:
The variable speed does require that you have a yellow dial timer or a control system to operate the motor.
Click to expand...
It does? You shouldn't need a timer with that motor it has one built in. You just set the third speed to 0 RPM for the time off.
 
Thanks for everyone's advice. Unfortunately, as with everything with this project so far, I've hit another hitch. So before I can even get a new motor I need to get the impeller off my old one... and it won't budge. I've removed the impeller off my old Super II pump a few times with no trouble. Just remove the back, loosen the capacitor, secure it with a 12 wrench and twist. This one however won't budge. Just as I was breaking out the channel locks I decided to look it up, and the first advice I got for stubborn impellers was not to use channel locks, haha. Instead, the video had me remove the four through bolts and tap the motor's shell off. But it won't tap off. The through bolts are all out, and tapping it (well, hammering it) loosens it enough for the body to spin, but it's stuck. Am I missing something here? Brute force it? Buy a new one? Thanks again.
 
A strap wrench is usually the best way to remove an impeller. If you can get to the shaft in the rear, there is no reason to remove the motor housing.
 

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