Hayward H400ED2 - SF Code

AnAltruist

0
Bronze Supporter
Jul 6, 2016
46
Near Toledo, Ohio
Hi everyone,

We haven't tried using the heater since we inherited the pool with the house we just purchased. There was never a guarantee the heater worked, just the rest of the equipment. It's a Hayward H400ED2 electric ignition from 2004.

When I tried turning it on, it gave an SF error. I had an HVAC friend come over and he verified continuity in each of the switches in the schematic. If we bypassed the switches while water was running with the pump full power, the igniters did fire for a few seconds but eventually it turned itself off again with an HS code. At least I think it was that and not HF. Should have written this last week. We could have torn it apart more but after the failure when bypassing the switches we halted for the night.

Aside from general cleaning, is there anything else obvious to do before thinking it's time to replace the control board? I did see that the H400ED2s were part of a recall but this unit is circa 2004 and it was the earlier years that were recalled due to control board failures.

I've read a few historical posts on the subject but didn't find one close enough to not post a new thread.

Thanks for everyone's help. Other than a bit cold, the pool is still clear and balanced second year in. I love when people ask if I use something other than chlorine in the pool because the water feels soft and doesn't smell like chemicals.
 
SF is usually the temp sensor issue like JamesW pointed out.

Just to be clear, are we talking about the high/low limit sensors (which I had mentioned we tested and confirmed to have continuity) or a separate sensor? Not the thermostat, right?

The manual states:

"Electronic heaters are manufactured with an integrated thermostat and ignition control that operates the heater. The replacement part is available as an assembly only. To replace control panel assembly:
1. Turn pump, main gas valve and electricity off.
2. Unplug wires from rear circuit board.
3. Remove four screws retaining the plastic bezel to the sheet metal.
4. Pull entire assembly through the front panel.
5. Replace control panel assembly and reverse above procedures.

This sounds like replacing the control board assembly. #32 in this diagram.
Hayward H-Series Heater - (ED2 Style) Replacement Part Schematic

Thanks for any clarification.
 
Thanks everyone for your help on this. I finally was able to install the replacement thermistor yesterday and everything fired up perfectly. No SF code. I had a temperature readout and no other errors.

The water is around 76 degrees and I looked forward to setting it to 80-82. Imagine my disappointment when I realized that the down button works but NOT THE UP BUTTON. So it's stuck on 78.

The button looks completely faded from the sun. Now it sounds like I need this keypad assembly to complete my quest. It's still better than a $400 control panel assembly but I'm definitely getting a piece of solid plastic to shade the buttons.

A side note for anyone reading this thread, I ordered the FDXLTER1930 FD version of the thermistor. It was only $25 instead of $65-70. For the H400ED2, I was able to tighten it all the way without worrying about the extra length. Several reviewers mentioned that this version worked for them.
 
The water is around 76 degrees and I looked forward to setting it to 80-82. Imagine my disappointment when I realized that the down button works but NOT THE UP BUTTON. So it's stuck on 78.

The button looks completely faded from the sun. Now it sounds like I need this keypad assembly to complete my quest. It's still better than a $400 control panel assembly but I'm definitely getting a piece of solid plastic to shade the buttons.

Replace your keypad with this. Follow the instructions that come with it to twist the cable. As long as the control board is good.

Hayward Compatible HF HFD Pool Heater Bezel Assembly Keypad By INSYNC | eBay
 
This is like owning a boat! Everything was working when I replaced the thermistor. However the old keypad’s up button didn’t work. I ordered the keypad mentioned (thanks!) and very carefully installed it. I did remember the twist.

Now all the buttons work. Hooray! But wait.. now when it tries to ignite I hear the poof, it stays lit for a second then stops. It does this three times and gives me an IF code. I took the bottom half off to see what was going on and there are definitely flames. I didn’t stand very close (wise move).

When it was stuck on 78 before I left it on for a long time to move the temp up from 75 to 78. It did work before replacing the keypad.

Unfortunately the old keypad is in no condition to be retried after I removed it.
 
OK the IF code means it is not sensing flame. It could be the ignitor which is also the flame sensor on this unit. Shut the power off to the unit and see if you can remove the ignitor from by the burner area and carefully clean it with some steel wool and then re-install it. Do not move/bend the metal prong as they are gaped like a spark plug and moving it can cause different problems. If that works, great. If not, well then you would need to inspect where the ignitor connects to the system board. Make sure the black connector is solidly connected to the board. Sometimes the solder joints break and you can move it easily. Sometimes a re-solder fixes it, but sometimes not. If it is solidly soldered in place, then I would suspect the ignitor is bad and you need to replace it.

*There are a few occasions where the system board is bad and it needs to be replaced instead of the ignitor. Ignitor is cheap to replace first.
 

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OK the IF code means it is not sensing flame. It could be the ignitor which is also the flame sensor on this unit. Shut the power off to the unit and see if you can remove the ignitor from by the burner area and carefully clean it with some steel wool and then re-install it.

Just another testament to how great this community is. Reporting back that this was exactly the problem. It took much longer than it should have due to a stripped and rusted nut but when I eventually removed it there was a definite need of cleaning. For all I know the sudden use after years of dormancy caused the rapid buildup. Several strokes of steel wool later and everything is working great.

Rapidly increased the pool temp to 84 and happily swam near the end of September. Granted it has been high 80s here. Probably one more weekend left of use then time to prepare for closure.

Thank you!
 
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