Not new to taking care of pools...even removing severe algae, with that said I got caught in the chlorine non-swg pool issues everyone was having last year and still have water quality issues. After 4 months of treating, SLAM method, I had clear water and 2 days later it was back to green, turns out I had a severe case of mustard algae. Managed to kill the mustard algae (chlorine shock w/copper lowes xtra blue) and still had a filthy pool that has taken several months to get as clear as it is. Not sure where to post to get the most help on the forum I guess I should mention the allergy to chlorine (severe rashes) so I do tend to keep the chlorine levels a bit lower than most and had a family member that had a stroke so a swg is no longer an option unless it's a low level of salt.
Hello from nola
- Thread starter bonze82
- Start date
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,290
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
Welcome to TFP! Good to have you here 
You can read more about Trouble Free Pool Care here: TFPC for Beginners
We use a very low level of active chlorine, with plenty of free chlorine held in a buffer created by stabilizer (aka CYA, conditioner, or cyanuric acid). The reserve held in the buffer ensures it's always available to convert to active chlorine. Most rashes we hear of are related to incorrect pH. Haven't heard of any relationship between strokes and salt water pools.
You can read more about Trouble Free Pool Care here: TFPC for Beginners
We use a very low level of active chlorine, with plenty of free chlorine held in a buffer created by stabilizer (aka CYA, conditioner, or cyanuric acid). The reserve held in the buffer ensures it's always available to convert to active chlorine. Most rashes we hear of are related to incorrect pH. Haven't heard of any relationship between strokes and salt water pools.
Flying Tivo
TFP Guide
- Jan 24, 2017
- 2,969
- Pool Size
- 7500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
What test kit are you using to control your chemistry? please post some result so we can help you better.
Felipe
Felipe
Sorry for the long delay I'm seriously considering converting this pool to salt found out that with the different pool chemicals and the poor quality pool guy's in the area that the pool owner hired to "clean" the pool that things got much much worse. Had my water tested some time ago ( digital kit) and the cya was 186ppm, let the winter rains dilute it down to around 60ppm and I started using liquid chlorine 10% and had the pool algae free and cloudy using the slam method. A couple of days later with the chlorine still above 3 it's back to green. Current test results are from a local pool place using a digital test kit.
cya 10
fc is 0
cc is .5
ta is 150
ph is 8.2
ca is 375
I know the plaster is old and exposed gunite is a problem. The pool leaks quite a bit now and i suspect the plumbing is part to blame, water heater is leaking.
I'm considering replacing the water heater but for now bypassing. Also found out that there is not near enough sand in the sand filter, the first pool guy "changed" the sand I suspect he drained some from the filter and never put sand back in it.
The pool place recommended adding 10 pounds of granulated shock and a mustard eliminator and a half gallon of acid I'm weary of the mustard eliminator.
Should I go with a new filter (cartridge) or should I replace the sand with zeolite. Also should I go with salt or stick to liquid chlorine once I get the pool clear again.
About to order the recommended test kit, does anyone have a recommendation for a digital kit instead.
cya 10
fc is 0
cc is .5
ta is 150
ph is 8.2
ca is 375
I know the plaster is old and exposed gunite is a problem. The pool leaks quite a bit now and i suspect the plumbing is part to blame, water heater is leaking.
I'm considering replacing the water heater but for now bypassing. Also found out that there is not near enough sand in the sand filter, the first pool guy "changed" the sand I suspect he drained some from the filter and never put sand back in it.
The pool place recommended adding 10 pounds of granulated shock and a mustard eliminator and a half gallon of acid I'm weary of the mustard eliminator.
Should I go with a new filter (cartridge) or should I replace the sand with zeolite. Also should I go with salt or stick to liquid chlorine once I get the pool clear again.
About to order the recommended test kit, does anyone have a recommendation for a digital kit instead.
Bonze82, unless you know how to use digital equipment and the frequent re-calibration it requires, I'd avoid it. And the fact that a pool store uses one is rarely to never an assurance of good results. We know that about 90% of pool store test results are suspect.
Also you state you are "allergic" to chlorine. How do you bathe? All public water departments have chlorine in the water and technically at higher levels than we advise since they don't also contain the "buffer" CYA. More likely you're skin is sensitive to chloramines (the contaminates so to speak) and poor pH management.
Did you remove all the lights and ladders from your pool when you were attempting to clear your algae? Unless you did you may have missed huge reservoirs of green sludge just sitting there leaking into the pool.
You've added a lot of copper to your pool it sounds like. That introduces a whole slew of stain problems and green hair. Is there any way you can drain and refill this pool to get rid of the metals?
Maddie
Also you state you are "allergic" to chlorine. How do you bathe? All public water departments have chlorine in the water and technically at higher levels than we advise since they don't also contain the "buffer" CYA. More likely you're skin is sensitive to chloramines (the contaminates so to speak) and poor pH management.
Did you remove all the lights and ladders from your pool when you were attempting to clear your algae? Unless you did you may have missed huge reservoirs of green sludge just sitting there leaking into the pool.
You've added a lot of copper to your pool it sounds like. That introduces a whole slew of stain problems and green hair. Is there any way you can drain and refill this pool to get rid of the metals?
Maddie
I had them test for metals none present and haven't used pristine blue in quite some time. There are no ladders or lights in the pool and the cleaner has been removed. Unfortunantly there is no way to drain and refill the pool due to very poor drainage in the area, draining will flood part of my yard and the neighbors yard not supposed to backwash anymore either hence the cartridge filter idea.
There's definitely some confusing stuff going here. Just fyi, it generally helps to include a time stamp, even a rough one, for any water tests.
I'm definitely interested in this 4 month SLAM you did. That's extremely long, normally doesn't ever take more than a week. What FC level did you go up to during the SLAM? What was your CYA at the time of the SLAM? How frequent did you check FC during the SLAM?
I'm definitely interested in this 4 month SLAM you did. That's extremely long, normally doesn't ever take more than a week. What FC level did you go up to during the SLAM? What was your CYA at the time of the SLAM? How frequent did you check FC during the SLAM?
Back again, demegrad I had the chlorine level above 10 for over 4 months before the pool finally turned cloudy and the chlorine was still above 4 when it turned green again (like it is now) was cloudy but not green this morning with a chlorine level of 15 and is now green again and the chlorine level is still above 5 according to the cheap walmart kit which i think is close to accurate the pool place uses the lamotte dpc-52 test kit and i hope their kit is more accurate then leslies used (same as my more expensive kit hth 6 in one out of reagents for chlorine and ph). Test results and chemicals added as best as i can remember:
3/7/18
cl 0
ph 8.2
ta 150
ch 375
cya 10
added 18 oz ph down dry acid
added 6 pounds trichlor
added 6 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine
added 3 gallons of liquid chlorine 10% daily
3/13: green
cl .19
ph 7.13
ch 400
ta 100
cya 33
added 3 gallons of liquid chlorine 10% at night every night
added a pound of trichlor on 3/19 around 10pm still green
3/20: cloudy
cl .15
ph 6.92
ta 125
ch 500
cya 12
added 6 pounds of trichlor
noticed it's cloudy in the 10am and by 2pm is back green for the last week.
Any advice is welcomed including a new kit similar to the lamotte kit they use at the pool store it's getting harder for me to match colors hence the digital kits.
3/7/18
cl 0
ph 8.2
ta 150
ch 375
cya 10
added 18 oz ph down dry acid
added 6 pounds trichlor
added 6 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine
added 3 gallons of liquid chlorine 10% daily
3/13: green
cl .19
ph 7.13
ch 400
ta 100
cya 33
added 3 gallons of liquid chlorine 10% at night every night
added a pound of trichlor on 3/19 around 10pm still green
3/20: cloudy
cl .15
ph 6.92
ta 125
ch 500
cya 12
added 6 pounds of trichlor
noticed it's cloudy in the 10am and by 2pm is back green for the last week.
Any advice is welcomed including a new kit similar to the lamotte kit they use at the pool store it's getting harder for me to match colors hence the digital kits.
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,290
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
Good posting!
At the very least read TFPC for beginners, linked in my signature below.
At the very least read TFPC for beginners, linked in my signature below.
Ok read both articles again to make sure I read them correctly. I should probably go ahead and get a new (recommended) test kit as I don't know the cc just the tc...I know yall hate the digital kits however as stated earlier I have issues color matching these days any that can be recommended. Also I found out the old pool guy emptied half or more of the sand out of the filter and then quit filter has about half the sand if not less. I am about to clean the debris from the equipment pad and will dismantle everything and clean the pad off as this is likely the best oppertunity to do any major work to the equipment is there anything that I can do to prevent the problems I'm having now in the future will also be a great time to change the sand.
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,290
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
If the sand is low (it should be maybe 10" down from the neck) then you can just top it up. Sand doesn't get old. It might need a deep clean Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter
You can find an electronic pH pen for 10 to 20 bucks but also buy a couple of different standard solutions around pH 7 to 8. The other tests aren't hard to distinguish, so the pen and TF100 will get it done for you.
You can find an electronic pH pen for 10 to 20 bucks but also buy a couple of different standard solutions around pH 7 to 8. The other tests aren't hard to distinguish, so the pen and TF100 will get it done for you.
I'm tempted to get zeolite if not a cartridge. started to remove the dirt residing above the pad to get the trash away from the pump and found water...will have lots of time after the third to do that work. Any advice on removing without loosing the sand from the filter or should I bail on the idea of moving the filter for a thorough cleaning of the pad and surrounding area.
All of this will happen once I know the pool is balanced algea free and can survive a few days without the pump of course.
All of this will happen once I know the pool is balanced algea free and can survive a few days without the pump of course.
You ought to be able to hose down the equipment pad without moving the filter. Maybe a bucket of bleach water and a good stiff push broom?
Zeolite doesn't get a lot of raves here. Sand is proven, cheaper and easy to clean. Your call.
You can open up the sand filter and scoop out the sand into a wheel barrow and wash it up, then gently return it so that you don't damage the innerds of the filter. Add some as needed and voila! You'll be in business with a good sand filter. Also, just for the record, a *slightly* dirty sand filter works better than a scrupulously clean on.
Maddie
Zeolite doesn't get a lot of raves here. Sand is proven, cheaper and easy to clean. Your call.
You can open up the sand filter and scoop out the sand into a wheel barrow and wash it up, then gently return it so that you don't damage the innerds of the filter. Add some as needed and voila! You'll be in business with a good sand filter. Also, just for the record, a *slightly* dirty sand filter works better than a scrupulously clean on.
Maddie
Sand only please. Most people that have the other stuff end up going back with sand. When you go to put it back in after doing Maddie's idea of the wheelbarrow cleaning (I will be doing that this weekend to mine) make sure to cover the stand pipe with a cup or such so NO sand goes down it. Also use your hands to place the sand until the laterals are covered THEN add some water to be extra sure to protect the laterals when you go to add the rest of the sand.
Kim
Kim
Cool thanks for the wheel barrow idea would have never thought about it. Was informed by the pool store to use sodium bromide any thoughts and is there a way to get it out after it's done I'd rather use algaecide/copper.
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,290
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
What he said with a couple of !!!! Pretty please do not use them.
Here is a link to our recommended chemicals: Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Chlorine/bleach is our main heavy duty worker for the pool. If you really feel the need to use an algaecide we recommend Polyquat algaecides.
Kim
OMG I never in my wildest dreams would have ever thought a pool guy cold be this stupid. This guy was hired by my relative to get the pool clean and used cal-hypo and trisodium pucks. He used enough cal-hypo to raise the calcium over 800ppm from 400ppm and had 6 and a half 3 inch pucks in the skimmer to treat the water it's so hot it's bleaching the reagents clear. I diluted the water down 10:1 with distilled water and got the chlorine to show 80ppm and diluted the pool water 20:1 to stop the ch reagent bleaching and stopped counting after reaching 800ppm 40 drops for the ch.
test results 3/28
cl 10+
ph 7.76
ta 100
cya 82
ch 400
test results 3/28
cl 10+
ph 7.76
ta 100
cya 82
ch 400
And THIS ^^^^^ is why we have our own good test kits and follow the guide lines here on TFP.