If you just have a 15 foot round pool with just the strait single legs you could just us a 4x6 or 6x6 block. I use 2x4 pressure treated cut to 6 inches under my legs with no issues
15' Above Ground Pool site level - Please Help
- Thread starter Chett
- Start date
If this is a hard wall pool, then no pressure treated wood. PT can still decay or split. I would use 6x6 or 8x8 pavers at east 2" thick. The bulk of the area under the pool liner should be as flat as reasonable as it will just be holding up the liner. Keep in mind that low areas or wavy areas can trap dirt and be difficult to vacuum and keep clean. It'll also be kinds annoying under foot for me anyway.
In my opinion the most important part to get level is the spots under the legs. not the spaces between the legs, but at the paver tops themselves. This is what will hold up the pool and make it look like a good neat install. I would never be satisfied with 3/4" out of level. My eye will see the water level against the pattern and I'd never be pleased with it. You should adjust the paver height to 1/4" in height against each other. I know this greatly exceeds the minimum standards, but this isn't a pool that you will or can take down / put up regularly. I consider these to be basically permanent. You may find it is easier to use a water level and not a standard carpenters level. This allows great accuracy over any distance. You can buy some or make one for less than $20 in about 30 minutes. Have a look at this thread
In my opinion the most important part to get level is the spots under the legs. not the spaces between the legs, but at the paver tops themselves. This is what will hold up the pool and make it look like a good neat install. I would never be satisfied with 3/4" out of level. My eye will see the water level against the pattern and I'd never be pleased with it. You should adjust the paver height to 1/4" in height against each other. I know this greatly exceeds the minimum standards, but this isn't a pool that you will or can take down / put up regularly. I consider these to be basically permanent. You may find it is easier to use a water level and not a standard carpenters level. This allows great accuracy over any distance. You can buy some or make one for less than $20 in about 30 minutes. Have a look at this thread
Or just do yourself a favor and go rent a laser level for the day for probably $20. That's what I use and have mine leveled in about 20 min every year. If someone would quit Stealing my wood when I take it down I'd probably be done in 10
[FONT="]My questions are :[/FONT]
[FONT="]1. The bottom rail will not sit perfectly flat on the dirt because of small nooks and crannies and it is very hard like granite. What are my options in this case? Do I make a bed of small river gravel underneath along the circumference of the pool so that the rail can sit evenly?
Which leads to this question :
The plates where the rails come together are plastic and they are about an eighth of an inch thick. Logic dictates if i even out the blocks with the surface of the diet then the rails will be floating above the dirt with an eighth of an inch gap so it appears that the blocks have to be sunk an eighth of an inch further down. It’s this correct? I have a contempra pool 15′. I called the company where I purchased it and they stated it can float above the dirt between the blocks. I though that answer to be incorrect.. Also one final question. If the boffins rails are all label but the base is off by 2 degrees at the lowest point is this acceptable? Any help appreciated.[/FONT]
[FONT="]1. The bottom rail will not sit perfectly flat on the dirt because of small nooks and crannies and it is very hard like granite. What are my options in this case? Do I make a bed of small river gravel underneath along the circumference of the pool so that the rail can sit evenly?
Which leads to this question :
The plates where the rails come together are plastic and they are about an eighth of an inch thick. Logic dictates if i even out the blocks with the surface of the diet then the rails will be floating above the dirt with an eighth of an inch gap so it appears that the blocks have to be sunk an eighth of an inch further down. It’s this correct? I have a contempra pool 15′. I called the company where I purchased it and they stated it can float above the dirt between the blocks. I though that answer to be incorrect.. Also one final question. If the boffins rails are all label but the base is off by 2 degrees at the lowest point is this acceptable? Any help appreciated.[/FONT]