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Thread: Converting to BBB

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    Converting to BBB

    I am converting from pool store chemicals and advice to the BBB method. I have been lurking and learning for a few weeks, but I haven't seen this question. I want to start with BBB now. Is it okay to start BBB in the middle of the season? I have bleach, Borax, and baking soda on hand, and I'm about to test and plug my numbers into the pool calculator, but I wanted to make sure it is okay to go full steam ahead.

    I'll post my numbers shortly.

    TIA.
    18x36 IG vinyl; 24000 gallons; Hayward SwimClear cartridge filter; EcoTech VS pump

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    reebok's Avatar
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    Re: Converting to BBB

    any time is a good time to use BBB :) sooner the better
    16x32 21,000 gallon in-ground exposed aggregate, 1.5hp pump, 120 sqft catridge filter, birdcage, solar panels, aquavac tigershark qc robot.

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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: Converting to BBB

    Keep in mind that BBB is a cute catchy phrase but not a "one size fits all" method.

    I have added nothing to my pool except bleach in over 2 years. So your pool, depending on your test results, may not need 2 out of the 3 B's. It may need MA, and CYA....

    You can start using BBB any time, it's simply using bleach as your chlorine source, instead of traditional pool store tablets or granulated chlorine.

    It's using Borax and Baking Soda instead of "PH UP".

    Its about not putting anything uneccessary in your pool, like algaecide, floc, phosphate removers, clarifiers, etc.

    It's simple, and it works.
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
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    Re: Converting to BBB

    Here are the numbers and a little history:

    TC 2
    FC 2
    pH 7.6
    TA 150
    CH 230
    CYA 80

    After opening this season and getting a clear pool, I took in my sample and had a CYA of 150. Over a few weeks of water dumps and vacuuming to waste when I vacuumed, it has come down to 80. I've been trying to avoid CYA at all costs for a month or so. I started using cal-hypo shock and quit using tablets in order to get the CYA down. But my pool has been cloudy for about three or four weeks, ever since I started using the cal-hypo. It gradually clears from top to bottom, but never gets fully clear before I add cal-hypo. I've been considering the change to BBB for a few weeks, but the cloudiness was the last straw, so to speak.

    We have owned the house for 11 months, so I'm learning as I go, but I'm a geek and DIYer at heart and the thought of daily monitoring and adjusting is very appealing to me, in addition to the cost benefits and satisfaction of understanding what is going on in the pool and knowing how to respond.
    18x36 IG vinyl; 24000 gallons; Hayward SwimClear cartridge filter; EcoTech VS pump

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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: Converting to BBB

    Then Bleach is for you!

    How are you testing the water?

    Is your FC holding overnight?
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
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    Re: Converting to BBB

    I just got a Taylor K-2005 kit this week, and I've used it a couple of times. I haven't tested the overnight levels.
    18x36 IG vinyl; 24000 gallons; Hayward SwimClear cartridge filter; EcoTech VS pump

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    Re: Converting to BBB

    Well, you need to confirm if the organics are dead, and to do this you need to perform an overnight FC loss test. For that, you need the FAS-DPD chlorine test. It is not part of the K-2005, and the main reason we recommend the K-2006.

    You should get the test separately for about $25 that will supplement your kit.

    If your FC is holding, it may just take time for the cloudy water to clear up. However, since your FC is so low, you should shock your pool tonight if you have any bleach on hand....

    Refer to the CYA chart - see your "min" level for FC, your "target" and your "shock" level.... your chlorine is way too low to clear up your pool....
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

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    Re: Converting to BBB

    From your post, it seems like you are saying the pool clouds up after you add Cal-hypo then slowly clears until you add Cal-hypo again. Is that correct?
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
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    Re: Converting to BBB

    I didn't catch the difference between the K2005 and K2006. I'll pick up the extra test soon.

    The pool calc says I only need bleach right now.

    Should I take it to shock level or go to the upper end of recommended? I was thinking about taking the FC up to 11 tonight.
    18x36 IG vinyl; 24000 gallons; Hayward SwimClear cartridge filter; EcoTech VS pump

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    Re: Converting to BBB

    Quote Originally Posted by duraleigh
    From your post, it seems like you are saying the pool clouds up after you add Cal-hypo then slowly clears until you add Cal-hypo again. Is that correct?

    Yes. It clears from top to bottom gradually, but never clears completely before I have to shock again. Or it gets almost completely clear right before I need to shock.
    18x36 IG vinyl; 24000 gallons; Hayward SwimClear cartridge filter; EcoTech VS pump

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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: Converting to BBB

    Since you have cloudy water, and your FC is already way too low considering your high CYA level, you should shock tonight if you can.

    Get the FAS-DPD sooner rather than later, if you want this to end sooner rather than later.
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

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    Re: Converting to BBB

    Shock with bleach and see what happens. I think your pool will stay clear.

    If I'm reading your posts right, the Cal hypo is causing the cloudiness....combined with your high TA and possibly high pH in the past.

    A combination of fairly high CH (you have it, barely), fairly high TA (you have it) and fairly high pH (you are close on that, I suspect it may have been higher from time to time) will cause temporary cloudiness in your water.

    You may also have organics in your pool in addition. By shocking with bleach, you should kill the organics and, if the water is clear during shock, identify the source of your cloudiness as cal-hypo.

    Read the article in Pool School on how to shock your pool. It is a processs...not a one-time application of chlorine.
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Re: Converting to BBB

    Thank you so much for the excellent (and QUICK) feedback!

    I will begin shocking tonight.
    18x36 IG vinyl; 24000 gallons; Hayward SwimClear cartridge filter; EcoTech VS pump

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    Re: Converting to BBB

    Quote Originally Posted by frustratedpoolmom
    Well, you need to confirm if the organics are dead, and to do this you need to perform an overnight FC loss test. For that, you need the FAS-DPD chlorine test. It is not part of the K-2005, and the main reason we recommend the K-2006.

    You should get the test separately for about $25 that will supplement your kit.

    If your FC is holding, it may just take time for the cloudy water to clear up. However, since your FC is so low, you should shock your pool tonight if you have any bleach on hand....

    Refer to the CYA chart - see your "min" level for FC, your "target" and your "shock" level.... your chlorine is way too low to clear up your pool....

    Do I just need the FAS-DPD Titrating Reagent to add to my kit or do I need to buy DPD Deluxe Test Kit?
    18x36 IG vinyl; 24000 gallons; Hayward SwimClear cartridge filter; EcoTech VS pump

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    Re: Converting to BBB

    You need the fas-dpd test. Look at www.tftestkits.net for it. Its around $25. If you have the cylinder, you could get the powder and reagent only, but I believe that the cylinder will get black over time so it's recommended to use the cylinder only for this test.
    16x32 21,000 gallon in-ground exposed aggregate, 1.5hp pump, 120 sqft catridge filter, birdcage, solar panels, aquavac tigershark qc robot.

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    Re: Converting to BBB

    Quote Originally Posted by reebok
    You need the fas-dpd test. Look at http://www.tftestkits.net for it. Its around $25. If you have the cylinder, you could get the powder and reagent only, but I believe that the cylinder will get black over time so it's recommended to use the cylinder only for this test.
    I think you've got the FAS-DPD and the K-1766 Salt test mixed up. The cylinder for the salt test will get black over time due to the silver chloride precipitating out, if you don't clean it after every use.
    24' x 52" AGP - approx 13,500 gallons
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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: Converting to BBB

    My chlorine cylinder used for the FAS-DPD test does get a dark grey/black residue if I don't wipe it out with paper towels in between uses.

    FAS-DPD Test
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

  18. Back To Top    #18
    reebok's Avatar
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    Re: Converting to BBB

    I haven't noticed any issue with mine yet, but I got that info from duraleigh's post here:
    my-readings-t13340.html
    16x32 21,000 gallon in-ground exposed aggregate, 1.5hp pump, 120 sqft catridge filter, birdcage, solar panels, aquavac tigershark qc robot.

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    Re: Converting to BBB

    Thanks for all the help. I got the FAS-DPD test from duraleigh and have been mitoring my water daily. The water has cleared, and I'm holding my FC at 10 until I can get my CYA down by dumping more water.

    BBB is awesome!

    Thanks again!
    18x36 IG vinyl; 24000 gallons; Hayward SwimClear cartridge filter; EcoTech VS pump

  20. Back To Top    #20
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    Re: Converting to BBB

    Quote Originally Posted by MikeInTN
    Quote Originally Posted by reebok
    You need the fas-dpd test. Look at http://www.tftestkits.net for it. Its around $25. If you have the cylinder, you could get the powder and reagent only, but I believe that the cylinder will get black over time so it's recommended to use the cylinder only for this test.
    I think you've got the FAS-DPD and the K-1766 Salt test mixed up. The cylinder for the salt test will get black over time due to the silver chloride precipitating out, if you don't clean it after every use.
    Nope, DPD will cause a brown to black staining on the cylinder over time. It is actually in the family of aniline dye bases (oxidation dyes) based on paraphenylenediamine that will darken on exposure to oxygen, which is why the powder turns dark over time, much like leaving a bottle of hair dye open for a period of time (or, for anyone that has ever kept a B&W darkroom, the stains that would appear in the developer tray--film developers are also aniline dye bases based on paraphenylenediamine. DPD is N, N-diethyl-paraphenylenediamine for your info.)

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