DIY Solar Heater Build

May 8, 2017
18
Columbus, GA
Hey All, I know this forum likes build threads -- so here's mine!

My pool is just about 90% shade, so it's not very warm despite being in GA. For instance, I'm only 82deg. At this temperature the kiddos start turning a little blue. Through CL, I scored 6 4x12 FAFCO solar panels and a bunch of 2in pipe. I have since order the GL235 kit, a few anchors for the panels themselves and several more 2in pipes, 90's, 45's, etc.

Here's my pad before:


Had to move the SWG, so that I could fit a check valve and room for the T's to go to the heater.



Starting my pipe runs, unfortunately for me the "sun spot" is around 60 feet across my roof.



I will add more as weather/work schedule allows me to work on it!
 
Saw your title and thought ... "Here we go again with the irrigation pipe"

Happily surprised that this is a real DIY solar install :goodjob:

FYI, the Pentair solar controller is a great deal that includes the valve and actuator.
 
Real? So if someone covers his/her roof with irrigation tube and pumps water close to boiling temperature into his/her pool, it is not "real" DIY... Odd.
Correct. Because heating a few gallons of water up to near boiling is not an efficient solar heater. And if you used enough tubes to have comparable sun exposure, then you would have spent a lot more $ than just buying the solar matts.

And here I thought it was going to be 1 solar thread where this discussion would not take place :hammer:

Please start your own thread if you would like to further discuss this ... or just search for the 100s of threads that have already.
 
I have been using this thread as reference: Solar Controller and Above Ground Pool

I'm trying to accomplish the same thing, use a relay to make the pump going to High Speed Mode while there is a call for heat. I went ahead and got the same RIB2401SBC Relay that was referenced by Issac-1; I like the idea of having a switch that's not at the pump.

Using Bama Rambler and the schematics off the RIB, I came up with this wiring diagram. Any of you smart people double check it for me? I want N/C to be low speed and N/O to be highspeed. So that the Relay will switch to High Speed when "triggered" Hopefully I got that right.



Thanks! I've just done the T's, but I'll put some pictures up tomorrow when it's light out again.
 
Finished all the wet work.



I tested the plumbing and ran into some problems :(. Two of the panels have leaks, they are used so it's not entirely unexpected. They are FAFCO's, so I know the plug kits. Are there any suitable alternatives, like roof sealant, fix a leak, or flex seal? I had a cracked joint that snapped when I touched it. So the 90deg by the VRV is trashed. Going to replace it with a T and a reducer for the VRV instead of a T and a 90 -- so close, yet so far away. (especially if I have to order a plug kit)

Electrical is next!

As always, any advice is welcomed as I venture my way through this.
 

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Yes, cut the tube, dip a screw in some caulk and screw it into the tube. I don't think Flexseal can hold up to pressure and maybe not to the expansion and contraction of the panels either. They move quite a bit.
 
Taking a look at the drawing, there are a few things that need changing. Here's a drawing that I came up with that should work to do what you want it to do using the RIB relay.

GL235 - RIB2401SBC.jpg

Let me know if you have any questions.

Using Bama Rambler and the schematics off the RIB, I came up with this wiring diagram. Any of you smart people double check it for me? I want N/C to be low speed and N/O to be highspeed. So that the Relay will switch to High Speed when "triggered" Hopefully I got that right.



Thanks! I've just done the T's, but I'll put some pictures up tomorrow when it's light out again.
 
Thanks Dave! Here's some pictures of the electrical.



All the switches work, and when I put it in manual test the actuator and pump speed do what they are supposed to. I just need it to warm up a little (stop raining) to see it all work automagically. I had it running semi-manually this weekend and was consistently getting a 5deg difference between the pool temperature and the return -- as measured by my SWG. That seems about what is expected. So over the weekend I gained almost 10deg (it was pretty cloudy). 77ish to 86. I think I will have to think with the actuator positions to see if drainage is happening properly -- maybe I'll undo the roof unions to see if any water comes out.

I do need to do some cable management, especially with the conduits -- but functionality it appears working.
 
It works great! I like that I can shut off the pump from the deck now, it's positioned just over the side of the rail. Or if I need to change the speed manually, just a couple flips of the switch -- way easier to get to than behind the pump.

With all the rain, the pool got cold enough to need heat, so the fully automation side of it has been validated.
 
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