Help with levels...

[Oly]

Don't want to be "that guy" but you will be spending much more than $18 in chlorine costs in only a few days if you don't get your pool water chemistry dialed in soon.

 

[jeffchap]

Don't want to be "that guy" but you will be spending much more than $18 in chlorine costs in only a few days if you don't get your pool water chemistry dialed in soon.

This.

 

[airbur]

Appreciate all the feedback. I'll pick up a kit shortly.

 

[mknauss]

With your size pool you could manage this as a 'Temporary' pool. Thus, if you get algae, the water becomes cloudy, etc, you dump it and start over.
Pool School - Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools

You would have to run it at lower CYA levels than what is normally recommended for SWCG water chemistry as you would not have the test kit (assuming you stay with what you have) to measure FC above 4.

It can be done. You would have to plan to dump and refill at least 2 or 3 times per summer, and of course dump at the end of the swim season.

Take care.

 

[airbur]

TF-100 kit is on the way.

 

[domct203]

TF-100 kit is on the way.

Awesome!

When the kit comes in, post the following for your pool:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

Then post the following for your makeup/fill water.
pH
TA
CH

Here are some comprehensive test instructions:
Pool School - Extended Test Kit Directions

 

[airbur]

Is it ok to run the heater at the same time the SWG is running? Or should the SWG only run when the heater is off?

 

[mknauss]

You can run them simultaneously. No problem.

 

[airbur]

Kit arrived. My first shot at all the tests:

Pool Water:
PH - 7.7
FC - 5
CC - 0
CH - 350
TA - 150
SALT - 2980
CYA - 70

Fill Water:
TA - 150
CH - 150
Salt - 0

I still need to do TA on the fill water but it appears from my CH level I need to dump around 80% of the pool water and start over.

Dang test strips put me in this horrible place.

 

[kcindc]

Kit arrived. My first shot at all the tests:

Pool Water:
PH - 7.7
FC - 5
CC - 0
CH - 350
TA - 150
SALT - 2980
CYA - 70

Fill Water:
PH - 150
CH - 150
Salt - 0

I still need to do TA on the fill water but it appears from my CH level I need to dump around 80% of the pool water and start over.

F-ing test strips put me in this horrible place.

CH isn't important for your type of pool. You don't need to dump any water. Your numbers look very good. Pool School - Recommended Levels


Your TA is a little high, but that can be easily fixed an isn't an urgent issue. High TA will mean that your PH will rise faster, especially with a SWG. Here is an article explaining how to lower your TA: Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity

Your FC is "on target" for your CYA level: Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

 

[domct203]

Kit arrived. My first shot at all the tests:

Pool Water:
PH - 7.7
FC - 5
CC - 0
CH - 350
TA - 150
SALT - 2980
CYA - 70

Fill Water:
PH - 150
CH - 150
Salt - 0

I still need to do TA on the fill water but it appears from my CH level I need to dump around 80% of the pool water and start over.

F-ing test strips put me in this horrible place.

Your CH is fine, no need to drain. While your CYA is a bit on the high end, it is manageable.

What is the fill water pH, it is certainly not 150.

 

[airbur]

Wont a high CH gunk up my heater/pump etc? The new Intex SWG had buildup already on the electrodes that I had to remove with vinegar...after only 10 or so hours of use.

Is the build up caused by something else?

TA is 150 on the fill water.

 

[kcindc]

The key to keeping the SWG clean is to manage your CSI. Right now your CSI is 0.44 any amount higher than 0.6 is a problem. If you work on lowering your PH and TA, you should be in good shape overall. Usually this biggest factor that can swing CSI quickly into the too high levels is PH. With a SWG and high TA, your PH will rise fast. As stated in my earlier post, work on getting your TA down and keep you PH under 7.8 but don't let it get lower than 7.2.

 

[domct203]

Assuming a water temp of 80F, your CSI is .25, while on the positive side it is still not very high to the point of instant scale buildup.

If you only lower your TA to 80ppm, and keep your pH around 7.4, your CSI drops to -.24.

 

[airbur]

Are AquaCheck Salt Test Strips junk also? My Intex SWCG is throwing a continuous high-salt error but the strips show the water at 2980 which should be fine. Is the Taylor drop test better?

 

[jagger2005]

The drop test is probably somewhat better than the aquacheck strips...but not enough to switch. Probably the only strips recommended by TFP.

Update:
I misread post and assumed low salt. So I killed my original suggestion.

Are the test strips purchased this summer?

 

[airbur]

Taylor Salt Test arrived.

FC: 5.5
PH: 7.5
TA: 130
CH: 125
CYA: 70
Salt: 3000
CSI: -0.39
Temp: 87F

SWCG is still finicky.....sometimes working fine, other times saying high salt (with only rain water being ADDed which should dilute) so not sure what's going on.

 

[kcindc]

Salinity will not change if rain water is replacing water that has been evaporated. When pool water evaporates, it leaves behind salt, calcium and CYA.

Most SWG will still produce chlorine when the salt level is high. Pull up your SWG manual and check to see what salt levels it recommends.

Also, you can check your FC levels over time to make sure it is still producing chlorine.

 

[airbur]

Thanks. 3000 is the perfect # according to the SWCG manual. And I know when it's on/off/producing as it shows high and low salt alerts. When on high or low salt statuses, no chlorine production is happening. To maintain FC I have been adding bleach.

 

[kcindc]

If it is not producing chlorine, I suggest returning the unit to Amazon (if that is where you bought it). I see a few Amazon reviews and at least one TFP poster stating that they had the same problem, false high salt when the salt was perfect.

Before you return, can you catch some water coming right out of the return to see what FC is coming out of the SWG when it running and shows the high salt error. Compare FC to a sample from the opposite end of the pool.