Help with Hayward Ecostar SP3400VSP: Motor Won't Start

jdav57

0
Jul 6, 2017
9
Seminole, FL
Pool Size
17400
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello,

I am new to this forum, I have been browsing around trying to make sure I don't break any rules on posting this here, so if I have please let me know and I will delete this post.

I have a Hayward Ecostar Variable Speed Pump (SP3400VSP). I did not purchase it for my pool, it was here when I purchased the house. The pump had been running fine (from what I could tell) up until a few days ago.

I recently let my pool get some algae in it and have been fighting to get it back to normal, so I had been running the pump quite frequently. I just noticed the other day that my pool wasn't running in the daytime which was weird because it is on a schedule and should have been running at the time. I went and checked to make sure the pump was on (and my Power Company hadn't shut power to the pump, since they installed an EngeryWise controller on the power so they can remote shut it off it they need to. I did this for a small savings on my power bill). After playing around with the pump for a few minutes I was able to verify that the controller to set the timers/speeds/etc. had power and was working. I then checked to make sure that the motor wasn't seized by turning the shaft with an allen key, as instructed in the troubleshooting section of the manual (https://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/EcoStar.pdf).

I have an uncle who is somewhat familiar with machines (works on assembly line type machines I believe) come and take a look at it. He removed the electrical cover plate (http://www.haywardflowcontrol.com/pdf/manuals/EcoStarDiagnostics.pdf) and checked the voltage coming out of the circuit board and going into the motor (page 4 of the previously linked PDF manual). There is no voltage coming out of the wires and going into the motor.

My question, which may be a long shot anyway, is has anyone ever experienced a problem similar to this? And, should that circuit board be the problem, is that something that can be replaced in the pump? Or would I have to purchase an entirely new pump?

I have a call with a pool service company to come check it out in the coming days, but at this point I'm trying to educate myself and explore my options.

Thank you!
John
 
Were there any error codes on the display.
There were no error codes that I could find. I did scroll through the errors that were logged and the most recent one in the log was from PFC low voltage from 12 power cycles ago. When cycling through the Diagnostics on the device, I did see that everything was zeroed out. Even the serial number for the pump is displayed as 0. At the very end of the diagnostic information it says, "Comm bus offline". But this is the first time I have seen that message. In my Googling for that particular problem I came across this PDF (https://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/2015-EcoStar-Troubleshooting-Guidev4.pdf). Perhaps I will dig around in it to see if somehow a wire got disconnected. I do see that on page 32 they suggest if the wire is connected and it still reads that to replace the drive. I'm unsure what the drive would be that needs to be replaced.

I assume you checked the power coming into the motor and is this a standalone or do you have automation controlling
And I'm sorry, but I don't know the difference between a stand alone or automation controlling. The pump is connected to a timer looking contraption that has visible gears and hours of the day listed on a circular device that can be spun. I have never messed with that prior to today and it was always in the on position. From that device, the power runs to the breaker, which has not been tripped (and it wasn't tripped when I went to check it earlier and has never been tripped since I've owned the home). I did verify that power is coming from the breaker and reaching the pump itself, checked it using a voltage checker and by being able to use the LCD control panel that is on the pump. That LCD panel on the pump is powered on and it tries to start the pump like normal. It will say it's priming the pump and then try to run it's normal cycles, only the motor never actually moves once it says it is running.
 
Well, the good thing is your breakers are not tripping !!!!!

Next, how old is the pump? Is it still under warranty? Take a pic of the serial #, then call Hayward to get the install date.

If you just bought the house, and thus inherited the pool, then do you have home shield warranty? I can tell you that either a controller [which they are known to go bad] or a motor is going to cost $350-$500. plus labor. if the pump is more than 2 yrs old, I would invest in a new 2-speed pump bc if you fix this one, something else could break in the next 30 days and you are out another $300-$400.

How many gallons is the pool and how far is the pump from the pool?

What size PVC do you have at the equipment pad...maybe some pictures would help.

Finally, your pool is going to become real green if the circulation system is off for too long. Is the pool CL or Salt? If former, go buy some 8.25% reg bleach and a cheap $99 submersible pump and get that water treated and moving...

Good luck, tstex
 
Well, the good thing is your breakers are not tripping !!!!!
A good thing is better than nothing at this point! :)

Next, how old is the pump? Is it still under warranty? Take a pic of the serial #, then call Hayward to get the install date.
I am in contact with someone at Hayward (sent an email and got a response from them today) and I have provided them with that information. I don't think it's under warranty any longer though.

If you just bought the house, and thus inherited the pool, then do you have home shield warranty? I can tell you that either a controller [which they are known to go bad] or a motor is going to cost $350-$500. plus labor. if the pump is more than 2 yrs old, I would invest in a new 2-speed pump bc if you fix this one, something else could break in the next 30 days and you are out another $300-$400.
I did not purchase any kind of home shield warranty and my wife is not familiar with it either. So I'm going to have to say it seems like I don't have it. That is extremely helpful advice, thank you very much! :)

How many gallons is the pool and how far is the pump from the pool?
The pool is around 20,000 gallons (if I did my calculations correctly). It's an odd shape, it starts about 3' - 3.5' and the deep end is about 6' - 6.5' with a pretty quick drop off to the deep end. Here's a picture of my pool. It has been a few days and it has already started to get cloudy. I also just realized I was causing it to be cloudy because of the chlorine tabs I was using so thanks to this. I will do a better job to prevent that once I have everything figured out. The pump is about 10' - 15' away from the corner of the pool. In the image above, it's at the right hand corner of the shed that is visible. Here's a close up of the pump.

What size PVC do you have at the equipment pad...maybe some pictures would help.
I measured it at 2 1/2" diameter going into the pump. The picture above shows all of the visible PVC pipes around the pump.

Finally, your pool is going to become real green if the circulation system is off for too long. Is the pool CL or Salt? If former, go buy some 8.25% reg bleach and a cheap $99 submersible pump and get that water treated and moving...
Thank you so much for that suggestion. I honestly had no idea that was a thing and just figured my pool would get gross and I would have to fight it to get it back into swimming condition once I got the pump figured out. I am going to go get one tomorrow morning.
 
Were there any error codes on the display. I assume you checked the power coming into the motor and is this a standalone or do you have automation controlling

If there is no panel [other than a breaker or two] that has controls or a key pad, then all your programming for the pump is coming off the pump control board, not a panel.

Has the pool company come out yet? if so, what was there prognosis?

When they arrive, make sure you are there and ask them as many questions as you can. Also, did you just do a search and find them or did you get a recommendation? Look the pool company up and check out their reviews. Sometimes people will list the persons name. this can be some of the best preventative medicine you can administer. You just want to work w someone that is honesty, trustworthy and does the right thing.

If they recommend you need to replace the entire pump, then unless they are giving you a fair discount to take the old pump w them, I would be careful. You need to know specifically what is wrong w it and what it takes to repair it and all the costs. There's just a lot of people out there.

Finally, you seem to have found the links to the pump. Get a pictorial/labeled diagram of the pump w parts and all, so when a tech comes out, you will be familiar w the names of the pump. It's probably going to be the controller or the motor, neither cheap. you've already check the impeller is moving...both the motor and controller can individually be replaced, but they are both expensive.

Let us know what the tech says is the problem...
 
If there is no panel [other than a breaker or two] that has controls or a key pad, then all your programming for the pump is coming off the pump control board, not a panel.
Okay, I that makes sense. The previous home owner only showed me the controls on the pump board. So I think that's all I have.

Has the pool company come out yet? if so, what was there prognosis? When they arrive, make sure you are there and ask them as many questions as you can. Also, did you just do a search and find them or did you get a recommendation? Look the pool company up and check out their reviews. Sometimes people will list the persons name. this can be some of the best preventative medicine you can administer. You just want to work w someone that is honesty, trustworthy and does the right thing.
Not yet, Monday will be the earliest they can. I did a search for them but they had decent reviews for my area. I called around to a few places, and one of them I dealt with when I had some leaking pipes, but they weren't able to come out for almost a week and a half. And seriously, thank you so much for the advice. I am so grateful for the interaction with this forum already. It's been so helpful. :)

If they recommend you need to replace the entire pump, then unless they are giving you a fair discount to take the old pump w them, I would be careful. You need to know specifically what is wrong w it and what it takes to repair it and all the costs. There's just a lot of people out there.
Once again, thank you so much. As a first time homeowner, it is good to be informed of these things so I don't have to find out the hard way.

Finally, you seem to have found the links to the pump. Get a pictorial/labeled diagram of the pump w parts and all, so when a tech comes out, you will be familiar w the names of the pump. It's probably going to be the controller or the motor, neither cheap. you've already check the impeller is moving...both the motor and controller can individually be replaced, but they are both expensive.

Let us know what the tech says is the problem...
I will do! I'll post back on Monday or Tuesday after they come out to update what the problem was.

Thank you again for taking the time to reply to my posts. I'm extremely thankful! This place is the best. I'm so glad Google had this as a search result for me!
 
I shorted my controller out. It had damage right under LCD screen and water leaked in and shorted it out. I have the 3200 model. I looked on OfferUp and Craigslist and found another controller and plugged in. I bought the whole pump with seized motor for $40 bucks.
 
I shorted my controller out. It had damage right under LCD screen and water leaked in and shorted it out. I have the 3200 model. I looked on OfferUp and Craigslist and found another controller and plugged in. I bought the whole pump with seized motor for $40 bucks.
My goodness, I didn't think of that. Great idea, I am looking around on those types of sites now. Thanks for the tip! :)
 
An update...

I was able to contact Hayward and speak with someone on the phone (spent almost 2 and 1/2 hours on hold!). I explained everything and they have offered to repair the parts that are bad in the pump for me. It is out of warranty. However, Hayward was kind enough to offer to repair the parts. I had a pool service company (who is an authorized retailer for Hayward) come out and check out the pump. Now I am waiting to hear back from the company after they speak with Hayward about repairing the pump.

I'm still not 100% sure what is bad in the pump and I will find that out shortly.

But from the looks of it, I think it is going to be repaired by Hayward and I will have to pay for labor by the pool service company.

I will update again when I know more.

Once again, thanks to everyone for the help! :)
 

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Hey I apologize in the delay in response. Been replacing a roof on my shed and work has been super busy.

The pool service company came out on Tuesday and ended up replacing almost the entire pump. The only part that wasn't replaced is the part that has the basket in it. Hayward paid for the replacement parts and I had to pay for the pool service company's time for labor.

1.jpg2.jpg

So as it is now, my pump is working again and I now have a battle on my hands to get the pool clear again. But thanks to this website and some of the articles on here it shouldn't be too hard.

Thanks again for all the help and suggestions!

John
 
Good luck w the green - seems like they replaced the controller and motor, basically all of the electrical, programming and water moving parts and left just the filter/strainer body. Just doesn't seem right to have to replace all the main parts on such a relatively new pump in the scheme of things. At least your parts were not billable. Hopefully the labor wasn't too bad - those pool guys wk fast so probably an hr to 1.5 hrs labor max - good luck
 
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