I am stuck here. I installed a new Hayward T 15 cell and a new PCB (GLX-PCB-RITE - Rev 1.59). the old PCB was 1.58 Rev. My question is... I am having a problem with the chlorine output, I would normally run the SWG at 12 to 15% all last year, but since I have installed the new cell and PCB I am running 40/50% just to keep free chlorine at 3 to 4ppm. Water readings are pretty normal, PH 7.4, FC 3 to 4, alk 80, ch 375, cya 80 water temp avg 82-84 deg, water is clear. I have taken a water sample to my local Bioguard dealer and the numbers are pretty close, anyone have any thoughts as to what I may be missing?
SWG & PCB Question
- Thread starter c ment pond
- Start date
Thanks, should have included in first post. Salt 3000, temp 80, cell volts 25.9, cell current 6.28, AL 2, t 15
At 80 CYA, you should be way higher than 3 or 4 FC.
80 x .8 = 6.4 + 2 for daily loss = 8ish.
Use bleach to get it rolling and the SWG to maintain.
80 x .8 = 6.4 + 2 for daily loss = 8ish.
Use bleach to get it rolling and the SWG to maintain.
I will give that a try, I guess it needs a kick in the behind. Thanks for your your input.
Your SWG is working correctly and producing the amount of chlorine that it is rated for.
You need to SLAM.
You need to SLAM.
I don't have an alge bloom and cc readings is o.o, do you think something else is going on that would need a SLAM?
Try an OCLT.
For 80 CYA, your fc should be 6 to 8.
You have been keeping the fc too low.
For 80 CYA, your fc should be 6 to 8.
You have been keeping the fc too low.
I currently have the pool covered as the temp is dropping into the low fifties tonight, I am assuming I need to do the OCLT with the pool uncovered?
Thank You James, I will test and shut off the swg tonight if fc reading is in proper range for the test. I will let you know what happens in the morning.
So I did the OCLT test over night, FC reading was 3.5 when I shut down the swg, tested this morning and reading was FC 2.5. I took a water sample this morning just to verify my results and their reading was 0.5 different, FC 2.0. Now the real puzzle to me was their salt reading at 2200, my swg says -3100, I have checked all the settings and have the Aqua Link setting at AL 2 for Mineral Springs, I checked with Hayward and they said settings between 0 and 3 would work as well, if in fact I am that low the swg doesn't reconize it and it is producing chlorine, I have the original display panel and as far as I know all the indicator lights work.
I have had a similar problem in the past. You do have a bloom, the SWG is just keeping it barely under control. Do a SLAM. The give away is your over night FC loss. It should be close to zero. This actually appears to be a common problem. Back when I was having the issues with my pool, I talked with the owner of my local pool store. He claimed that most of the pools he knows of do the same. He thought it was normal. I however know that it was not normal and finally resolved the issue. I have found on my pool I have to run FC in the upper part or slightly above the values recommended here. I also use poly type algaecide.
I am doing the SLAM now. Been a crazy day, trying to also figure out why their is such a big difference with the swg salt reading and the Bioguard Alex test which was 2100, the swg was reading 3100, I talked with the people at Hayward support but I never got a clear answer and they wanted me to just do another test, which I did, and the numbers where still the same, they also recommended bringing the salt up to 3500 using the test strips, I did add salt today and will see what the reading is tomorrow morning, will see what that does for my chlorine output as well.
Thanks for your reply
Thanks for your reply
James, just wanted to get back to you all let you know problems are diminishing and right now I am running at 18% output, FC is stabilized and my specific gravity is 3300. Thank you for all your help
