borjis
LifeTime Supporter
can you post a photo of where it connects on the motor?
That actually sounds like a bonding connection, not ground.
That actually sounds like a bonding connection, not ground.
can you post a photo of where it connects on the motor?
That actually sounds like a bonding connection, not ground.
That metal pipe "appears" to be your water bond.
Strange they used twisted wiring and not solid copper 8 gauge wired
that is called for in bonding.
At the very least you should shut off the power and clean the connections
to shiny/new looking for solid contact.
If that is the third picture from the bottom you are talking about then that is not a proper grounding technique
Here is a clamp that should cover your needs, it covers pipe sizes 1-1/4 to 2". There are other sizes available if that is not a correct presumption
Blackburn Bronze Ground Clamp 1 1/4 - 2 in.-J2BB-B1-5 - The Home Depot
clamp it to the pipe and then attach the ground wire to it.
BTW all those connections look dodgy and definitely needs cleanup/retermination at a minimum...
Are grounding bars available to buy at places like Home Depot or similar? I tried cleaning this one with a wire wheel, but I have no screws to fit it as the old ones broke off inside...
That metal pipe "appears" to be your water bond.
Strange they used twisted wiring and not solid copper 8 gauge wired
that is called for in bonding.
At the very least you should shut off the power and clean the connections
to shiny/new looking for solid contact.
Yes, the bond wire needs to be an 8 ga solid bare copper wire.
Are grounding bars available to buy at places like Home Depot or similar? I tried cleaning this one with a wire wheel, but I have no screws to fit it as the old ones broke off inside...
What type of wire is 8 gauge? Is it the same as the wiring from the house that feeds the hot tub..but just a single strand?
One thing of note, I believe in Canada #6 AWG solid copper bond wire is required where as the US requires #8 AWG. I am not 100% sure on that but it's worth looking into. I've never preformed electrical work in Canada but I am licensed in NJ and I hear this topic come up at NFPA meetings from time to time.
As has already been said, if you're feeling a shock when touching the water and the earth you have a major issue that should warrant calling a professional for inspection and repair. If the GFCI is not tripping either it is defective, wired incorrectly or the leakage current is less than 6 mA. It's also a potential indication that there is no bonding ring or grid installed around/below the spa. You can get a plug in style GFCI tester which would allow you to verify the GFCI receptacle itself. None of that would pass an electrical inspection around my parts.
Keep in mind the stray current may be from outside the hot tub hence the reason for the bonding ring or grid below the tub so the earth is at the same potential as the water and other pool equipment. This can be the result of broken or undersized grounding conductors in the electric grid and from harmonics created by switching power supplies. If you don't have a bonding ring, you might want to consider installing one to deal with stray voltage.
At a minimum I would replace any of that stranded wire in the grounding and bonding path with solid wire. The reason for this is because stranded wire will corrode away completely from the inside out and the jacket on stranded wire makes the issue worse. Solid copper ground bars would be preferred but tin plated copper is also acceptable. Make sure any clamps or connectors you use are listed for the purpose, generally I'd stay with CU/AL listed as they're pretty well good for joining any metals.