Replacing Pipes...What Should I Use?

[NullQwerty]

Very cool! Thanks! I hadn't thought of noise level so I'm glad you mentioned it! I'll go with option 2.

And Dave...thanks for the tip on the 2.5". Good point!

Now I'm just researching making connections with PolyPipe and seeing if it looks like something I shouldn't attempt for risk of future failure. If so, then I'll go rigid.

 

[NullQwerty]

Alright...rigid it is. Poly sounds like a pain and possibly risky to have leaking joints in the future. I also just read that it too can be eaten termites:

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Can_termites_ ... ming_pools

Termites can and do attack (eat) poly pipe used in pools. Before a homeowner uses poly pipe, it is suggested that they contact the poly pipe manufacturer since studies and the factory specs clearly establish it. I have seen termites repeatedly damage self installed poly pipe on an in ground pool. If poly pipe is used, it is absolutely mandatory that the surrounding soil be be treated for termites.

 

[waste]

Null, sounds like you're going the correct way

If you need ANY! help with this, please post here and we'll help

 

[Riles_J]

Mark,

I am following this thread as well, as I am going to be in this same boat in the near future. This is probably a silly question, but what do you mean by "pad"? Does that mean reducers are put on the 2" before they go into the pump? The information you provided is great I was just a little confused by that column.

Thanks,

Riles

 

[gator.bigfoot]

If your concerned about replacing the pipe in the future or protecting the pipe you could run your choice of pipe inside another one. For instance if your choose the poly pipe, you could run it inside of a 4" flex drain pipe typically used for draining foundations. This pipe is super cheap and can withstand an incredable amount of pressure. This would protect your pipe inside. Also, it will allow you to change the pipe in the future if ever the case arises that without digging up and destroying your entire decking. Run and planned properly it will give you access to all your connections in the future. I know I will be doing this if ever I need to replace mine, since I don't ever want to tear it up more than once. I will also be installing "man holes" by all the connections. This way I can always get at it if ever the need arises, and if in the future new technology changes the way we handle pump circulation. Just a thought.

Cheers,

Walter

 

[mas985]

Mark,

I am following this thread as well, as I am going to be in this same boat in the near future. This is probably a silly question, but what do you mean by "pad"? Does that mean reducers are put on the 2" before they go into the pump? The information you provided is great I was just a little confused by that column.

Thanks,

Riles

"Pad" is for equipment pad where the pump, filter, valves, etc. are located.

 

[jspec]

Great read! Thanks for the information even if its 3 years old! I Replaced 1/2 my pool lines with 1.5" black poly. The poly that was there was 40 years old and basically would split if you tried to splice into it. I have to replace the other 1/2 of the pool and was thinking of using flex pvc as the poly is very hard to work with. Schedule 40 is for direct burial so why would flex pvc be so weak?