iAqualink thinks it is in Service Mode

[pgershon]

This is an occasional problem I have had for the last three seasons that I have yet to identify. I have a 100% WIRED system - no WIFI. My iAquaLink (version 1) will frequently think it is in service mode after the panel has been in service. Its as if there is a delay with the iAqualink recognizing that the Jandy is back in Auto. To date, no one has explained why this might happen, but it happens a lot. So I am asking the wider audience, any ideas? It is a Jandy dual pump controller with Rev R. And to repeat myself, not using WIFI so this NOT a WIFI issue.

 

[Jimrahbe]

pg,

I'm not up on Jandy, but your idea that it might be some delay sounds worth looking into..

What do you normally use the Service mode for?

Thanks for posting, let's hope one of our Jandy guy's can chime in,

Jim R.

 

[superray]

When you experience this delay does unplugging the wired connector at the router and plugging back in do anything to reestablish connection? Do you have UPnp enabled on your router?
I have a Jandy Aqualink RS with a wired Autelis PDA interface and it's rock solid but that's not your setup. Is the iAqualink set to a static or dynamic IP?
I might be off base here, but I know that I had to put my home automation (Mi Casa Verde) onto a different VLAN because my Onkyo amp was not playing nicely with its network broadcasts and my home automation would listen and lock up.
As soon as I set my router to VLAN and separated the two, the issues went away. Maybe there is something else on your LAN that is causing this to happen?

Just some ideas to try and isolate the issue....

 

[pgershon]

Thanks for the thoughts. After seeing it offline yesterday for about 4 hours, I went to the panel, put it in a and out of service mode, and all was fine. I do have an Autelis in the hookup as well, and it worked despite the issues with the iAqualink. Also, the iAqualink would show the setting on the pool despite it thinking "service mode". It knew heater on, salt level, etc. Making changes to the router did not seem to help. It may be that the iAqualink is missing the message that the panel left service mode. I would need someone who is more familiar with how the iAqualink functions to chime in. As best I can tell, the issue is not communication with the iAqualink, but just that the iAqualink is not properly getting notified, some of the time, when the panel goes to service mode. And it does not seem to simply poll for status (of course the issue might be the other way, with the panel not sending out proper message to iAqualink, but I tend to doubt it).

 

[pgershon]

I am bumping this again. This problem has yet to go away after all these years. Periodically, when the system is put in and out of service mode from the panel, the iAqualink still thinks system is in service mode, even though it was restored to auto. The keyboards and Autellis still work fine. But the iAqualink believes the system is in service so I cannot control from iPhone and PC. Communication is restored when I put the Jandy system back to service and then to auto.

 

[PoolGate]

What are you calling "iAqualink"? The panel IS the iAqualink. Do you mean the remote interfaces? As in the Web Browser and/or phone app? Those 2 get their status from the web. Wired interfaces and the wireless PDA get their status direct from the unit so should immediately reflect the proper state of the panel.

Also what is the "Autellis"? I never heard of that. If that is a third party ad-on I would probably suspect that as a cause.

 

[gde]

I am bumping this again. This problem has yet to go away after all these years. Periodically, when the system is put in and out of service mode from the panel, the iAqualink still thinks system is in service mode, even though it was restored to auto. The keyboards and Autellis still work fine. But the iAqualink believes the system is in service so I cannot control from iPhone and PC. Communication is restored when I put the Jandy system back to service and then to auto.

I've had this problem a few times over the past 5-6 years, though seemingly less frequently than you. And it just happened again today. In today's case, it would almost seem that the scheduled program overrode service mode (which shouldn't happen) as: 1) i left it in service mode so that it could run for 24 hours, uninterrupted by the schedule, and 2) i never took it out of service mode. According to the app, it remained in service mode, but i could see that the pool wasn't running. Went to confirm, and indeed, it was back to Auto on the panel. I'll follow here for a more informed opinion... Thanks

 

[pgershon]

What are you calling "iAqualink"? The panel IS the iAqualink. Do you mean the remote interfaces? As in the Web Browser and/or phone app? Those 2 get their status from the web. Wired interfaces and the wireless PDA get their status direct from the unit so should immediately reflect the proper state of the panel.

Also what is the "Autellis"? I never heard of that. If that is a third party ad-on I would probably suspect that as a cause.

I have a 20 year old AquaLink RS touch system (actually a dual 2/6 for separate pool and spa pumps/plumbing) with three touch keypads and a spa side remote. The Jandy currently operates with board revision R. About 10 years ago I purchased an "iAquallink" upgrade (its now version 1.0 as I believe a 2.0 version came out about 5 years ago). The iAqualink upgrade consisted of a replacement board (bringing the revision to R) for the Jandy, as well as a separate "iAqualink" unit which plugs into the Jandy system with the 485 cable like another touchpad. The iAqualink also includes an ethernet port which I use (instead of the wifi option). The Autellis is another 485 plugin which simulates a serial device and allows access from PC's in my network using a proprietary protocol (separate from the Jandy iAqualink).

So to your question, I have a main Jandy control board at the panel by my pumps with a series of buttons at the top (including an Auto/Service/Off button). In Auto mode the touchpad or other devices (including the iAqualink and Autellis) are supposed to control which relays are activated, while in "Service" mode the buttons on the panel itself control on/off status of each relay and the touch pads and iAqualink are deactivated and say "service mode". In this case, when I say iAquaLink, I mean the the screen on the web browser/iPhone App which is connecting in through the iAqualink unit.

My issue is that after the panel goes into service mode and then gets restored to Auto, while the touchpad all respond properly (and the Autellis too), the iAquaLink still senses the panel is in service mode and will not let me control the pool functions. So I have control from touch panels but not from iPhone. Seemingly, the iAqualink unit is not sensing that auto mode was restored and must be recycled again. This happens randomly, can happen 2-3 times in a row when put in/out of service mode, or the system may go 10 cycles in a row without a problem. It is very unpredictable. I typically dont put the unit in service mode, but my pool man does on a weekly basis. And he is unaware that the iAqualink is off since he does not use it.

I worked with Jandy a few years ago to try to correct but never succeeded. It is not an internet issue - the iAqualink unit comes up fine on my iPhone - it just incorrectly senses the Jandy system in service mode.

 

[pgershon]

I've had this problem a few times over the past 5-6 years, though seemingly less frequently than you. And it just happened again today. In today's case, it would almost seem that the scheduled program overrode service mode (which shouldn't happen) as: 1) i left it in service mode so that it could run for 24 hours, uninterrupted by the schedule, and 2) i never took it out of service mode. According to the app, it remained in service mode, but i could see that the pool wasn't running. Went to confirm, and indeed, it was back to Auto on the panel. I'll follow here for a more informed opinion... Thanks

It sounds liek your issue is slightly different. You have the panel on its own going from service to auto, but not at the app. Mine goes from service to auto at the panel when the button is pressed, but while my touch panels detect Jandy back in auto mode, my iAqualink apps on the system still think Jandy in service mode. Varients of same problem.

 

[PoolGate]

OK I think you are referring to the iAqualink as the antenna, yes (see below)?

I do think it is an Internet issue. And while maybe not specifically a communications issue, it is an issue getting status from your local system to Jandy. Aqualink status is communicated from your panel, through the Internet, to Jandy. When you connect via iPhone or web browser, those apps get the status of the system from Jandy, not from your local system board. So something is not communicating properly between your system board and Jandy to tell it when it comes out of service mode. You confirmed all of your direct connect controllers work properly.

Check out eBay maybe you can find a newer system to replace the older one. People sell Aqualink all the time on eBay you should be able to find something newer.

 

[PoolGate]

It sounds liek your issue is slightly different. You have the panel on its own going from service to auto, but not at the app. Mine goes from service to auto at the panel when the button is pressed, but while my touch panels detect Jandy back in auto mode, my iAqualink apps on the system still think Jandy in service mode. Varients of same problem.

What am I missing? I understood that this was also his exact same problem.

 

[pgershon]

OK I think you are referring to the iAqualink as the antenna, yes (see below)?

I do think it is an Internet issue. And while maybe not specifically a communications issue, it is an issue getting status from your local system to Jandy. Aqualink status is communicated from your panel, through the Internet, to Jandy. When you connect via iPhone or web browser, those apps get the status of the system from Jandy, not from your local system board. So something is not communicating properly between your system board and Jandy to tell it when it comes out of service mode. You confirmed all of your direct connect controllers work properly.

Check out eBay maybe you can find a newer system to replace the older one. People sell Aqualink all the time on eBay you should be able to find something newer.

Thanks for the replay. Actually, I am referring to the whole box like you have in your photo, not just the antenna (and mine is the 1.0 version). I believe either the grey or black wire in your example connects to the 485 ports on the Jandy (the 4 wire connections as they are frequently called).

I can say 100% that its not an internet issue, but could be an issue with the 485 serial protocol reaching the iAqualink unit. When I disconnected the 485 wires and reconnected, the device went offline for a bit, but then came on with a green light to indicate it was linking in auto mode. Seems I just need to reset the iAqualink, not the entire Jandy system, to correct. That is progress. (FYI, i removed the connector from the bottom of my multiplex board - which connects to the iAqualink on the right below - and replaced it. This effectively reset the iAqualink and it works.

 

[pgershon]

What am I missing? I understood that this was also his exact same problem.

I think his main panel spontaneously left service mode. Mine only leaves service mode when it is told too by pressing the button on the panel - but my iAqualink is not sensing that auto mode was restored.

 

[PoolGate]

Thanks for the replay. Actually, I am referring to the whole box like you have in your photo, not just the antenna (and mine is the 1.0 version). I believe either the grey or black wire in your example connects to the 485 ports on the Jandy (the 4 wire connections as they are frequently called).

I can say 100% that its not an internet issue, but could be an issue with the 485 serial protocol reaching the iAqualink unit. When I disconnected the 485 wires and reconnected, the device went offline for a bit, but then came on with a green light to indicate it was linking in auto mode. Seems I just need to reset the iAqualink, not the entire Jandy system, to correct. That is progress. (FYI, i removed the connector from the bottom of my multiplex board - which connects to the iAqualink on the right below - and replaced it. This effectively reset the iAqualink and it works.

Instead of using the multiplex board, connect the antenna directly into the main board. You should have 1 or 2 4-wire 485 connectors on the main board. You can put 2 devices in each of those connections. Wherever the comm problem lies, the issue is that the system status is not being transmitted to Jandy's main Aqualink control systems so that it may re-transmit that status to your phone and web apps when they connect. Your phone and web apps connect to Jandy, not to your local system. If you disconnect your internet connection, you will not be able to use the phone or web apps.

 

[PoolGate]

Also it looks like you are using CAT5 network cable for the connection between the antenna and Aqualink panel. Perhaps that is part of the issue. Do you have a spare piece of proper 4-wire cable? If not, at least use 1 color for each connection so the communications cables aren't crossing and possibly injecting some sort of signal problem. ie: Use the solid orange, solid green, solid blue and solid brown and don't use any of the striped cables.

 

[pgershon]

Instead of using the multiplex board, connect the antenna directly into the main board. You should have 1 or 2 4-wire 485 connectors on the main board. You can put 2 devices in each of those connections. Wherever the comm problem lies, the issue is that the system status is not being transmitted to Jandy's main Aqualink control systems so that it may re-transmit that status to your phone and web apps when they connect. Your phone and web apps connect to Jandy, not to your local system. If you disconnect your internet connection, you will not be able to use the phone or web apps.

I wish it were that easy. I have 2 SWG and 1 touch panel connected to the main board locally, and then a wire that extends about 200 feet from my pool house to the basement of my main house. That wire goes into the multiplex, and then branches out to (1) the iAqualink unit in the basement; (2) the Autellis in the basement and (3) another touchpad in my dining room. The dining room keypad and Autellis always work fine. The problem is unique to the iAquaLink, and only occurs as the main board going into service mode and then comes out of it. I have tried removing the multiplex, taking the Autellis and dining room keypad out of the circuit and connecting directly to the iAqualink but its the same result. Its possible that the iAqualink cannot handle the long run (or whatever buried cable I use is not good wiring). I suspect its old outdoor cat-3 cable. Was put in in 2000 when house was built as a conduit to pool house, intended at the time for telephone wire.

 

[pgershon]

Also it looks like you are using CAT5 network cable for the connection between the antenna and Aqualink panel. Perhaps that is part of the issue. Do you have a spare piece of proper 4-wire cable? If not, at least use 1 color for each connection so the communications cables aren't crossing and possibly injecting some sort of signal problem. ie: Use the solid orange, solid green, solid blue and solid brown and don't use any of the striped cables.

It's actually cat 5 (just 4 of the 8 wires) connected to cat-3 for 200 feet and then back to cat-5 (4 of 8 wires).

 

[PoolGate]

Wow ok. I am now 100% convinced your issue is a communications issue.

You should actually be happy you have any communications at all. I think the occasional blip you are seeing is very minimal for your setup.

 

[pgershon]

Do you think relocating the iAquaLink to pool house would help? I now have good internet there. Did not used to. I could avoid the long run over cat-3 that way.

 

[PoolGate]

Do you think relocating the iAquaLink to pool house would help? I now have good internet there. Did not used to. I could avoid the long run over cat-3 that way.

I do think that would help.