Become a TFP Supporter Pool Math Forum Rules Pool School
Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: Pool Chemisty

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    new caney tx
    Posts
    16

    Pool Chemisty

    New to all this just did my first test with a TF-100 my numbers are way off. Pool is 16 x37 IG I think fiberglass built in 09.

    FC 3ppm
    CC .5
    TC 3.5
    CH 450
    TA I added 30 drops no reaction I'm assuming that means 0
    CYA 110 only measures to 100 to I estimated
    PH 8.2 Didn't see any other way to test except the small test kit. Is this right
    Since my numbers were so way off I could not figure out the calculator.

    Tried adding the info to my signature but could not figure out where to put it. Thanks for any help I can get.

  2. Back To Top    #2

    TFP Guide
    triptyx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    1,476

    Re: Pool Chemisty

    Welcome to TFP! It's awesome you already have a good testing kit.

    You can edit your signature here: Trouble Free Pool

    CYA - you need to do a dilution test. Mix half pool water and half tap water together and use that as your sample. Divide the result by 2 and you can get a better read of your CYA - the scale is logarithmic so it's not very effective to estimate if it's near 100.

    The small test kit is the proper way to test pH - that's correct.

    First things first, add muriatic acid to get your pH down to around 7.6 or so. Once that's done, you need to get your chlorine levels up to at least 10 at a minimum (as in, don't let the pool drop below that number) - target 14 to 16. That's based on a 125 CYA - if yours turns out to be higher, you'll need to push it higher. Unfortunately, a water drain/fill is going to be in your future - let's see what your final CYA number lands at.

    With CYA numbers like that, I'm guessing you (or your pool service) has been using solid chlorine - such as tablets or granular "shock". That is what causes that out of control CYA number. Going forward, you'll want to stick only to liquid chlorine or unscented, plain bleach (make sure it's not splashless or "EZPour").

    Can you please tell us what your water looks like? Is it nice and clear or is it getting cloudy? What color is it?
    8,500gal plaster in-ground with attached spa, two floor drains, one skimmer. Chlorine, City Water.
    Pentair WhisperFlo 1hp Pump, MagnaTek Midcentury EPlus motor, Pentair CleanNClear 200SF Cartridge filter, Purex Triton MiniMax 250 Gas Heater, Pentair SunLite, AutoFill.
    Kreepy Krauly Cruiser, TF-100 with SpeedStir. :D

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    new caney tx
    Posts
    16

    Re: Pool Chemisty

    My pool water is clear Actually had a pool guy come out about a week ago to fix a leak and he said my pool looked real clean.
    Yes I'm guilty have been using the pucks first time having a pool since June last year had a pool guy come out and teach me how to maintain. Guess that was a mistake. LOL

  4. Back To Top    #4
    Mod Squad Texas Splash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    South-Central Texas, Marion/San Antonio
    Posts
    17,327

    Re: Pool Chemisty

    Welcome to TFP! Good notes above. As for the TA, hummmm.... how about try a test on your tap water? I'm curious to see what you get there. Usually there is "some" alkalinity in the water. It would be good to get that resolved. Great to have you with us at TFP.
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
    Vital Links: POOL SCHOOL, RECOMMENDED LEVELS, RECOMMENDED CHEMICALS, Poolmath Calculator, SLAM, Chlorine/CYA CHART.
    If you enjoyed your TFP experience, please consider donating to Support TFP!

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    new caney tx
    Posts
    16

    Re: Pool Chemisty

    Retested
    CYA 30 doing a dilution test

  6. Back To Top    #6
    Mod Squad Texas Splash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    South-Central Texas, Marion/San Antonio
    Posts
    17,327

    Re: Pool Chemisty

    Hilda, perhaps we confused you. Sorry if we did. The diluted water test is just for the CYA and needs to be done with 1/2 pool water and half tap water. Like this:
    CYA Dilution Testing:
    Add pool water to bottom of sticker.
    Add tap water to top of sticker.
    Shake.
    Pour out half so mixture is to bottom of sticker.
    Add reagent to top of sticker.
    Shake.
    Test outside with back to sun and tube at waist level.
    Pour back and forth a few times to see if you get the same result.
    Double the result.
    For the TA re-test, since you showed a "zero" in the pool, I'd like for you to try a tap water test just for the TA - no diluting on that one.
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
    Vital Links: POOL SCHOOL, RECOMMENDED LEVELS, RECOMMENDED CHEMICALS, Poolmath Calculator, SLAM, Chlorine/CYA CHART.
    If you enjoyed your TFP experience, please consider donating to Support TFP!

  7. Back To Top    #7

    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    new caney tx
    Posts
    16

    Re: Pool Chemisty

    I re-did some of my tests
    CYA 120 dilution method
    TA 120
    PH 8.2
    Went to home depot bought my muriatic acid now to figure out how much to add.
    Other question How can I figure out if my pool is fiberglass? Equipment has an 08 date if that helps.
    Thank you for all the help.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I added my info on the signature. Why is it not showing up? I made sure to save.

  8. Back To Top    #8
    Mod Squad Texas Splash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    South-Central Texas, Marion/San Antonio
    Posts
    17,327

    Re: Pool Chemisty

    Well, for the type of pool, if it's fiberglass (like mine is), it will simply be a hard shell with no plaster or vinyl coating. If you're still not sure, maybe take a picture and upload for us to see. That TA number looks much more like what we would expect to see. As for the pH, you already know it's high, and the muriatic acid will do the trick to lower it. The way to know "how much" acid to add means using the POOLMATH calculator that we list at the top of the TFP web page. To use it, you need to know how many gallons your pool is. Do you know the pool volume? If not, you can give us some measurements and we can try to help.

    Now before doing too much to the water, we know your CYA is too high since you got a reading of 120 (that assumes when you did the diluted sample you actually got 60 then x 2 = 120). So anytime CYA is over 100, we recommend exchanging some water. Unfortunately that's the only way to lower CYA. Good thing is that once you lower the CYA, it will not go back up again as long as you don't use pool store tablets/pucks, bags of chlorine powder, or add stabilizer on purpose. With a CYA of 120, you should try to exchange about 1/2 of the water which will get you to a new CYA of 60 - perfect for the upcoming summer TX sun.

    So I would recommend first exchanging the water to adjust the CYA to about 60, then you can re-test pH and adjust it as necessary. If you have any problems with the Poolmath calculator page or calculating your pool size, let us know and we'll try to help.
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
    Vital Links: POOL SCHOOL, RECOMMENDED LEVELS, RECOMMENDED CHEMICALS, Poolmath Calculator, SLAM, Chlorine/CYA CHART.
    If you enjoyed your TFP experience, please consider donating to Support TFP!

  9. Back To Top    #9

    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Los Angeles, Ca
    Posts
    252

    Re: Pool Chemisty

    Fiberglass is kind of slick, plaster will be rougher.

    Not sure it that helps or not, I have a fiberglass pool and the surface feels different from plaster.
    25,000 gal fiberglass pool, Raypak 336k BTU low nox RP 2100 gas heater, Pentair CCP520 520 sq ft Cart filter, Max-Flo VS2303VSP pump, diy control and automation system

    seperate spa, with own pump, cartridge filter, Hayward H200FDN heater, diy control and automation system

  10. Back To Top    #10

    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    new caney tx
    Posts
    16

    Re: Pool Chemisty

    Do I drain half of it all at once or do I drain a little at a time? Kind of scared of it have heard that pools can pop out. Thanks
    24k gallon, 16 x 37 IG , Gunite, Pentair cartridge 420, Whisper Flo Pump 2hp type CX model 011774 has 2, Polaris 280, built 09, TF-100 kit, Also has a wood burning heater.

  11. Back To Top    #11
    Mod Squad pooldv's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    DFW, TX
    Posts
    24,974

    Re: Pool Chemisty

    It is safe to drain down to 1' of water in the shallow end for any pool.
    TFP Moderator
    If TFP helped you or saved you money - Become a TFP Supporter! <--Click here
    2012 build and pics, 20k gal gunite, black onyx pebblesheen, OK flagstone, IntellifoVS, cart filter w/Pleatco, IC40 SWG, Solartouch, 5 12'x4' solar panels, HP50HA heat pump, 8mil solar cover, borates, TF-100 test kit, SONOS, Doheny's Discovery Robot, hot tub on bleach

  12. Back To Top    #12

    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    new caney tx
    Posts
    16

    Re: Pool Chemisty

    Did a partial drain this weekend.
    My new numbers are:
    FC 15
    CC 2
    TC 17
    CH 275
    CYA 80
    PH 8.2
    TA 130

    I realize my FC is to high my husband snuck in some bleach. He thinks if it don't kill the ants it ain't high enough also if you can't smell it. This has been an ongoing argument.
    I think all my other numbers are ok. Do I need to worry about bringing the chlorine down?
    Thanks for all the help.
    24k gallon, 16 x 37 IG , Gunite, Pentair cartridge 420, Whisper Flo Pump 2hp type CX model 011774 has 2, Polaris 280, built 09, TF-100 kit, Also has a wood burning heater.

  13. Back To Top    #13
    Mod Squad Texas Splash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    South-Central Texas, Marion/San Antonio
    Posts
    17,327

    Re: Pool Chemisty

    Okay Hilda, at least the CYA is a bit lower. Your chlorine isn't all that bad because your CYA is still on the high end. You mentioned earlier that your water was clear, but I see your CC reading is a bit elevated. It could just be a temporary thing, but it needs to be watched. Here's what I would suggest at the moment:
    - Use muriatic acid to lower the pH to under 7.8 - perhaps about 7.6 or so. The color blocks can be tricky, but definitely under 7.8.
    - Leave the FC elevated like that for tonight and consider doing an overnight (OCLT) test. Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT) It would be good to ensure there are no excessive organics trying to live in the water.

    That's really about it for now. Lower pH and watch the FC. Hope that helps.
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
    Vital Links: POOL SCHOOL, RECOMMENDED LEVELS, RECOMMENDED CHEMICALS, Poolmath Calculator, SLAM, Chlorine/CYA CHART.
    If you enjoyed your TFP experience, please consider donating to Support TFP!

  14. Back To Top    #14

    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    new caney tx
    Posts
    16

    Re: Pool Chemisty

    A few more questions.
    My numbers on Thursday about 4 pm:
    FC 15 ppm
    CC .5
    PH 7.5 added muriatic Acid to bring it down

    Today:
    FC 12.5
    CC .5
    PH 7.5 added more muraitic acid
    CYA 80

    Was wondering my swimming pool fountains are always on when the pump is on. Can't turn the dial to shut them off husband can't seem to turn it also. Could this be affecting my ph?
    With a CYA of 80 if I'm reading the chart correctly my FC should be 9-11 is it ok if it is higher? can we still swim in it?

    Thank you for all the help

    20170421_172332.jpg
    24k gallon, 16 x 37 IG , Gunite, Pentair cartridge 420, Whisper Flo Pump 2hp type CX model 011774 has 2, Polaris 280, built 09, TF-100 kit, Also has a wood burning heater.

  15. Back To Top    #15
    Mod Squad Texas Splash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    South-Central Texas, Marion/San Antonio
    Posts
    17,327

    Re: Pool Chemisty

    Hi Hilda! Pool is looking great. Yes, fountains/bubblers/spillways cause aeration which is a natural way to increase pH. Usually there is a valve "after" the filter which allows you to adjust how much flow goes to the return jets versus bubblers, spillways, & fountains. Hopefully there is one or you can find it. Since your CYA is at 80, going slightly over the recommended range to 12 will not hurt you a bit. It is safe to swim...... even up to 31! Enjoy that nice pool and have a nice weekend.
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
    Vital Links: POOL SCHOOL, RECOMMENDED LEVELS, RECOMMENDED CHEMICALS, Poolmath Calculator, SLAM, Chlorine/CYA CHART.
    If you enjoyed your TFP experience, please consider donating to Support TFP!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •