Solar heating questions

When I researched solar panels (and got quotes) 8 years ago, the Fafco where the ones the installers were recommending. I think these are "unglazed" panels. I'm not sure if things have changed since then.

In my case. I didn't go with solar because of the higher installation cost (BTW, I needed 8 to 10 panels since my roof was not oriented in the best way). It was around $6K for solar versus $3K for HP. I figured I could use the money saved by going with the heat pump to pay for its electricity for 5 years or so.

Plus in FL your supposed to take your solar panels down in the event of hurricane warning and that would be a pain. And I think it makes sense to take them down to prevent wind uplift from ripping them off the roof and/or to protect the panels from wind blown debris. Of course, if your not in a hurricane prone area then this is not an issue for you.

Solar Pool Heater Technology, learn how solar pool heaters work
 
Fafco is certainly a good brand of solar panels. I don't know how to hook up the Jandy, but you need a JVA and a temp sensor on the roof near the panels and I assume you already have a water temp sensor connected.
 
When I researched solar panels (and got quotes) 8 years ago, the Fafco where the ones the installers were recommending. I think these are "unglazed" panels. I'm not sure if things have changed since then.

In my case. I didn't go with solar because of the higher installation cost (BTW, I needed 8 to 10 panels since my roof was not oriented in the best way). It was around $6K for solar versus $3K for HP. I figured I could use the money saved by going with the heat pump to pay for its electricity for 5 years or so.

Plus in FL your supposed to take your solar panels down in the event of hurricane warning and that would be a pain. And I think it makes sense to take them down to prevent wind uplift from ripping them off the roof and/or to protect the panels from wind blown debris. Of course, if your not in a hurricane prone area then this is not an issue for you.

Solar Pool Heater Technology, learn how solar pool heaters work

We do live in an area of California designated as a "Special Wind Region" in the building code. We get winds out of the north in excess of 80mph a few times a year but I think I can figure out how to anchor them for that. The best place to put these starts getting shade about 3 in the afternoon but soaks up the sun all day until then. I'm going to see exactly when it starts to get shaded tomorrow. This is the best time to do it because now, and on the other side of the trip around the sun in the fall, is when they'd come into best use anyhow.

The Fafco ones I'm looking at are about 8 years old so they're probably exactly as you describe. I can get the panels for somewhere around $400 it seems then the cost to instal them.. parts etc, so it is much less than $6 large I think. Of course, I only have a roof area of about 16' x 12' directly over the pool enclosure and even that needs to be framed still. That limits the area to about 200 sf and my pool is a tad over 400 sf so it is a little bit shy. I need to figure out how much I'm going to save on NG bills with this because right now it is about $400 a year to heat the pool.

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Fafco is certainly a good brand of solar panels. I don't know how to hook up the Jandy, but you need a JVA and a temp sensor on the roof near the panels and I assume you already have a water temp sensor connected.

Yes. I do have a water temp sensor for pool water temp and a 2-pin header labeled "Solar" on the PCB of the Jandy.
 
Jandy rs-8 solar operation is built in and easy to utilize. You need panels, temp sensor (for the roof), 3-way valve (with small hole to allow panel drain back) and a jva controller. As stated above, The contoller reads roof temp and desired pool temp then determines whether to turn on the solar or off. When the rs-8 is set up to assign the jva to solar operation, you will have an option on the screen to enable solar.

You dont have to set the pool to max temp, just what your desired set point otherwise the pool can get too warm. I set mine at 85 degrees year round. Dont let an installer talk you into buying a separate controller- you dont need one! It's also much cleaner to have one system to controll all pool functions.

as far as cost, its literally free compared to LPG or Propane (virtually zero cost when normally filtering water- and just electricity costs if you are extending pump run time to collect more heat). I ran 10 4' x 12' panels on our 18,000 pool and it is swimmable from march through october. You can also supplement with a solar blanket and increase heat production ~50%. We've had a cold and wet winter in norcal but the pool is still 73 compared to outside temps in high 60's. Thats only running 4 hours a day. A standard 4 x 12 panel puts out about 1000btu/sqft per day. 8 panels would generate ~ 3MM btus a day. Running a 400k btu gas heater for 7 1/2 hrs a day provides a comparable output.

there are many DIY kits and videos on installation, sizing, etc. Also with electrical solar becoming so popular, many used panels are showing up on craigslist when removed to utilize the space for electrical solar. After 10 years on my DIY system, I just bought 6 used panels on craigslist for $300 to replace the old ones which had started leaking. You can buy a system for less than 1/2 of the price normally quoted by installers. I finished my installation in a weekend fwiw.

Can you clarify a few things please?

Given my panel hook up above, where does the roof temp sensor connect?

I see the connection for the Solar JVA and know where to assign JVA's in the RS8 One-touch control panel or autelis emulator of it so I've got that in concept.

I assume by "The controller reads roof temp and desired pool temp..." that you mean the Jandy Aqualink, or is there some other controller needed?


[EDIT]NM. I see the "Solar Sensor" on the panel. That must be what reads the temperature of the water in the panels. So I do need another temp sensor then.[/EDIT]

If I read this correctly, I need a 3-way valve and a JVA (which is a 3-way actuated valve), or is this one in the same valve? The Auqualink controls the JVA which is the 3-way valve?

Lastly, where does this small hole go? Is that some sort of a vacuum breaker?

I'm getting very close to knowing exactly how to plumb and wire this set up for sure now, just need to figure out those 3-way valves and JVA's as well as the "small hole".
 
It doesn't read water temp of the panels. It is a black temp sensor that reads air/sun temp. You need a 3-way solar valve and a JVA (Jandy valve actuator) motor to open the solar valve. A solar valve has a pinhole and a flapper to allow the solar panels to drain when the valve is closed. You want the solar panels empty when not in use because the water will overheat and create pressure in the panels.

There are pics of my solar plumbing in my pool thread, link in sig. The left pipe goes up to solar.
 
It doesn't read water temp of the panels. It is a black temp sensor that reads air/sun temp. You need a 3-way solar valve and a JVA (Jandy valve actuator) motor to open the solar valve. A solar valve has a pinhole and a flapper to allow the solar panels to drain when the valve is closed. You want the solar panels empty when not in use because the water will overheat and create pressure in the panels.

There are pics of my solar plumbing in my pool thread, link in sig. The left pipe goes up to solar.

Cool! I'll take a look. I think I shouldn't have any problem doing this DYI given adequate time to do it after framing the roof over the equipment enclosure.

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BTW, I already have an external temp sensor but that is for freeze protection AFAIK. It is loose off the back of the control panel but I wonder if it needs to be hose clamped to a pipe? My run times are from midnight to noon with my new VS Pump and that is really the only time we even get close to freezing an January 21 so it is sort of pointless anyhow.

So this is a different specific air temperature sensor that goes by the panels on the roof or whatever they go on.

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So I looked at your pool build and see the piping but still not sure. I suppose I need to Google a schematic someplace.

I see now where all the leaves come from you were talking about pooldv. Have you ever considered cutting down every tree that blocks your solar panels to maximize output?
 
I can't see where the return connects here. Could the valving in the second picture be placed closer to the equipment pad, rather than on the side of the cabana?
equip2.jpg

.. and I'm unclear about the flows here. So when solar is off it goes right and returns back to the pad and when it is on it goes up the roof? On the right side is the three-way solar valve? It looks like some sort of vacuum breaker or check valve to me.
Solar valve.jpg
 
It is a regular 10k ohm temp sensor, black to pick up radiant heating also. Mine is next to a panel, I can't remember how I attached it. My panels receive nearly full sun all day. I have strategically pruned the tree above the panels so that they get sun from 9ish to almost sunset.

The left pipe is up to the roof, the solar valve is black on the left. Below that is a check valve to stop flow back into the filter. On the right is a check valve to stop flow up to the panels when the solar valve is closed.

There is a diagram on page 4 here, http://shop.solardirect.com/pdf/pool-heaters/solar-pool-heaters/collectors/vortex/vortex-install-manual.pdf
 

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Solar Piping.JPG

Cool. Got it! But I'm not seeing said "hole" anywhere. I'm sure the other poster meant the check valving system as in that diagram. Gut instinct says that with NG heat, it goes on the outlet side of the solar panels, before the return to the pool.
 
Okay, I thought that was the JVA? Or is it a special JVA with a release built into it? Where does the water go as it cannot go back below the check valve does it just drain out of the system? That doesn't seem right. It should go into the pool.
 
Okay. All this time I thought JVA's were motor and valve all in one. So I need a JVA and a solar 3-way valve.

Now to do the pricing and cost analysis on payback. I'll leave yhe cost of framing the roof over the equipment enclosure out as that is happening either way regardless of whether the solar is a go or not.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 

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