Do I need a separate temperature sensor for the solar panels? Where to connect if I do? There's one two pin header on the Jandy PCB marked "Solar" so I think that is for the JVA to open and close the feed from the solar panels, right?
When I researched solar panels (and got quotes) 8 years ago, the Fafco where the ones the installers were recommending. I think these are "unglazed" panels. I'm not sure if things have changed since then.
In my case. I didn't go with solar because of the higher installation cost (BTW, I needed 8 to 10 panels since my roof was not oriented in the best way). It was around $6K for solar versus $3K for HP. I figured I could use the money saved by going with the heat pump to pay for its electricity for 5 years or so.
Plus in FL your supposed to take your solar panels down in the event of hurricane warning and that would be a pain. And I think it makes sense to take them down to prevent wind uplift from ripping them off the roof and/or to protect the panels from wind blown debris. Of course, if your not in a hurricane prone area then this is not an issue for you.
Solar Pool Heater Technology, learn how solar pool heaters work
Fafco is certainly a good brand of solar panels. I don't know how to hook up the Jandy, but you need a JVA and a temp sensor on the roof near the panels and I assume you already have a water temp sensor connected.
Jandy rs-8 solar operation is built in and easy to utilize. You need panels, temp sensor (for the roof), 3-way valve (with small hole to allow panel drain back) and a jva controller. As stated above, The contoller reads roof temp and desired pool temp then determines whether to turn on the solar or off. When the rs-8 is set up to assign the jva to solar operation, you will have an option on the screen to enable solar.
You dont have to set the pool to max temp, just what your desired set point otherwise the pool can get too warm. I set mine at 85 degrees year round. Dont let an installer talk you into buying a separate controller- you dont need one! It's also much cleaner to have one system to controll all pool functions.
as far as cost, its literally free compared to LPG or Propane (virtually zero cost when normally filtering water- and just electricity costs if you are extending pump run time to collect more heat). I ran 10 4' x 12' panels on our 18,000 pool and it is swimmable from march through october. You can also supplement with a solar blanket and increase heat production ~50%. We've had a cold and wet winter in norcal but the pool is still 73 compared to outside temps in high 60's. Thats only running 4 hours a day. A standard 4 x 12 panel puts out about 1000btu/sqft per day. 8 panels would generate ~ 3MM btus a day. Running a 400k btu gas heater for 7 1/2 hrs a day provides a comparable output.
there are many DIY kits and videos on installation, sizing, etc. Also with electrical solar becoming so popular, many used panels are showing up on craigslist when removed to utilize the space for electrical solar. After 10 years on my DIY system, I just bought 6 used panels on craigslist for $300 to replace the old ones which had started leaking. You can buy a system for less than 1/2 of the price normally quoted by installers. I finished my installation in a weekend fwiw.
It doesn't read water temp of the panels. It is a black temp sensor that reads air/sun temp. You need a 3-way solar valve and a JVA (Jandy valve actuator) motor to open the solar valve. A solar valve has a pinhole and a flapper to allow the solar panels to drain when the valve is closed. You want the solar panels empty when not in use because the water will overheat and create pressure in the panels.
There are pics of my solar plumbing in my pool thread, link in sig. The left pipe goes up to solar.