Day 16 and still losing the SLAM battle (and my mind)

aralph

0
Jun 22, 2015
120
St. Francisville, LA
Here's how the algae presents itself. Like brown dust along the steps and seems. CYA is 50, kept FC at above 20, no CC, swept 4-5 times a day. See photos. Is this some algae I've never heard of? No green water, rather crystal clear but can't pass OCLT. IMG_20170330_115713113.jpgIMG_20170330_115732446.jpgIMG_20170330_115757247.jpg

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Where are you located? Did you recently open? Did you follow mustard algae protocol in pool school? (if its algae, my bet is mustard...)

Does it drop, ever, at any point in the day, below slam value? If it does, get ahead of that with a few extra ppm. ( Don't go crazy.)

Lastly, how is your filter pressure? Any chance its sand...or pollen? What happens when you smear some on a paper towel? Use a turkey Baster and see ;)

Ps...what are your readings OCLT specifically?
 
I'm near Baton Rouge. I never closed but I also didn't keep my FC levels over winter. Started noticing what I thought was dirt or pollen (water always clear) on bottom and SLAM convinced me it was algae. I didn't follow mustard protocol as this didn't fit the mustard description to me in Pool School. I've tried very hard to keep it above SLAM. Pressure is fine and steady. It's not sand because there's no texture to it. Flies away when touched. Today I passed OCLT (have been losing 2-3ppm) but I don't trust it. Happened about 6 days ago but stuff never went completely away and FC dropped too fast during the day. Then started seeing more of it so started SLAM again later that same day.

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Also is there a particular place to take water sample from? Got a much different reading from deep end just now as opposed to near return. In fact deep end reading was higher than my reading last night before bed. I usually take them from the deep end.

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Well, you have some serious TESTING or CIRCULATION issues......don't know which.

There should be NO variation in FC readings in a properly circulating pool. So, is your FC that unmixed or is your testing that faulty......let's eliminate the testing first.

Do you understand the endpoint of the test? The sample starts pink and then carefully added drops cause it to turn clear. The last drop that you add to the solution makes NO further color change. Then, you subtract that last drop and the result is your FC. Is that right? Post back and tell us you agree with the procedure.
 
I've done hundreds of these tests. So yes I know how to measure FC. I've been through this every year for 3 yrs now (never took this long though). I've never seen it jump before - maybe I got a bad read last night but didn't add enough bleach to drive it up to 30. At any rate I'm at work now. Will re-test at lunch. I don't want to get too sidetracked on one strange test out of hundreds. I'm trying to focus on the end game here. Don't know how much more of this I can take. I do not understand why this stuff won't go away. Previous years only took a week or so to resolve (and the algae presented itself much differently - ie cloudy water, greenish tint).

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How do I know if it's mustard? Again, just presents itself as some dirt primarily at the liner seams and steps. I see light clouds when I brush. Water is clear otherwise. I will say that what I see on the steps looks sort of brown and slimy particles but too sparse to touch. I can brush the steps and it will start showing up again almost immediately. What's the longest it typically takes to win the battle and how do I know if I'm just making zero progress?

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Don't wanna jinx myself but think I may be winning the battle after 17 days. No visible clouds when I swept and very little on steps/liner. FC been at 22 since last night. Added some bleach just to be on safe side before returning to work.

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Day 20. Skipped a day on Sat. Got it back up to slam on Sun. Still losing the battle. Pool is super clear but still suffering from OCLT failure. CYA is down around 40, keeping FC at mid 20s. I'm about ready to drain the money pit and start over. Adding 6 plus gallons a day.

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Did you follow the mustard protocol ( Pool School - Mustard Algae ) or try to get a sample smeared on a paper towel to at least attempt to confirm its algae?

There is a type of mustard algae that looks kinda like dirt on the floor:

Type 1 is fairly common. It’s usually yellowish green and it adheres to walls and floors. It usually does not float freely in the bulk water like green algae. [Edit]- At least not initially. Once it begins to grow, it can float freely and cloud the water. [End edit].

Type 2 is pretty rare. When someone says that mustard algae is rare, this is the type that they’re talking about. Type 2 usually sits on the bottom of the pool. It does not adhere or float freely. It can look like cloudy dust, sand, DE or dead algae.

To differentiate from sand or DE, brush. Sand will billow around and quickly settle. DE will make a noticeable cloud and resettle fairly quickly.

Type 2 mustard will dissipate and resettle in 30 minutes to several hours depending on water circulation.

To differentiate from DE or dead algae, look at the coloring. Dead algae or DE will typically have little color. They will be off-white, gray or light tan. Type 2 mustard algae will typically contain hints of green, olive, yellow and brown.

- This quote is from TFP guide JamesW who is much more knowledgeable about mustard algae than I ;) Here's a video he previously posted that I looked up in reference: Mustard Algae - YouTube

When you're running high FC levels you want to make sure your OCLT is performed in complete darkness for accuracy. A loss of less than 1 ppm in a pool with 10 FC will be more like 2 in a pool with 20.

I hope this helps you dx your problem. Mustard -- if that's what it is -- can be tough. Some believe going higher than the MA guidelines during the 24 hr period is better, but you have to assess the risk level if you have a vinyl liner in particular. By higher, I mean 60 or more percent of your CYA.
 

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