SLAMarama... Need Advice w/ Algae Problem

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Agree, I'm pretty confident I have a handle on the testing. I think I just expected to see higher CC given the amount of green that should be getting consumed by the FC. But I didn't know that CC was fairly transient or that it was consumed by FC. So that was kinda a light bulb. Agree the filter is still a wildcard. I don't know how well it is or isn't working. I don't consider the filter new per se, but I do know (from the prior owner) that a pool company replaced the sand a year ago and I would think would have checked out the state of the internals. The pervious owner had good specific records on a number of unrelated pool maintenance items so I believe them. I have not yet cracked it open to check it out.

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I'm kinda surprised that no one has asked for pictures. ( If they have, I missed it) It's usually a good idea to take at least one a day, looking down on stairs, ladder, or pole that goes down into the water. This can make it easier to see the progress as you get closer to the end.
 
OCLT showed 0 loss overnight. FC was at 19 after dark and still 19 this morning before sunrise. CC still basically 0...really really slight hint of pink that cleared with a single drop. Water clarity is still not good. It was really cold overnight for Texas (water temp is 45F) but as far as I can tell that shouldn't impact the chlorine.
 
Okay so lets do this. Take a pic of your steps looking down at them. Then brush them so we can see what you see when you do that.

I think it is a matter of keeping the FC up to get rid of the last of the algae and brushing and vacuuming to help get it OUT of the pool.

I would also keep the using DE in the sand to help catch the stuff. You can also put a light colored (to help you see what you catch) t-shirt in your skimmer basket to see what you are catching from the water and it will act as a filter as well. Just make sure the water can flow freely.

Kim:kim:
 
I'll take some pictures of the steps and see if I can capture the plume that brushing kicks up. Yesterday it was looking more brown than green but the pool overall still has a green tint. I put some skimmer socks in a few days ago...the really fine material I am trapping there is brown.
 
A chlorine tablet? No I have not. Tried to take a pic of the plume but it didn't really work. The plumes are smaller than before.

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Well it sounds like you are heading in the right direction!

With the tablet I wondered if it would clear up some of those stains. No big deal.

Do you have a time line for the re-plaster? So long as it is not leaking you can keep enjoying it like it is after we get the algae cleared up. Gives you more time to save up your pennies.

Kim:kim:
 
Not sure on the replaster. It's a 62' mid century modern house that hadn't been touched inside. Original carpet, etc. Maybe we can do the plaster this spring if we get the inside under control and have any money or we may have to live with it as is for a year and regroup. It doesn't seem to be leaking...they supposedly fixed a leak around a skimmer a few years ago. We bought the house in late Sept when it was still hot and water loss seemed reasonable. Haven't done a bucket test yet.
 

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More brown than green is a good sign you are moving in the right direction
Great on the OCLT too that there was no loss of chlorine

Have you cracked the filter yet to have a look at the sand?

Oh on the replaster has anyone suggested a product called aquabright? Its a thermoplastic and sounds real good. Could be worth comparing when you get to looking at the plaster
 
No worries on the re-plaster....I would love for you to look at the product Caco is talking about for the future when you are ready to take on the pool.

For right now lets get the SLAM done-NO more "stuff" on the bottom of the pool is our main goal right now.

Once that is done I have a couple of ideas for those stains. When you are running around pick up one of those single chlorine tablets/pucks AND some cheap vitamin C tablets (not colored). Let me know when you have them. No hurry though.

Kim:kim:
 
I haven't cracked the filter open yet but was planning to soon. I've seen the video on deep cleaning a sand filter. What else should I be looking for?

I have some chlorine pucks but I'll have to get some vitamin C.
 
When you take the top off just look at the sand. Make sure to not pull the tube out of the sand when you go to take the top off.

How does the sand look? Reach in and feel down into the sand. Is it loose and easy to move? Every once in a while the sand with "channel" and get hard. If that is the case you will need to break it up if possible.

Now for the "just in case" part of the deep clean. IF you just happen to lift the center tube up and un-seat it you will need to remove all of the sand (yeah I did this so know :roll:). You can and should use a shop vac to get the sand out. I put the vac in my wheel barrow and dump it into the wb when it fills up. That way I do not have to bend down as far. It make it easier to put back in.

When you go to put the sand back in you will need to make sure the tube is centered and seated in place on the bottom. Put something (plastic cup taped on) over the hole so none of the sand gets down it. Fill the body of the filter halfway up with water to help cushion the laterals from the sand. Put the sand in by hand until the laterals are well covered then you can pour it in.

I typed that all out in hopes you will NOT need this info! LOL

Kim:kim:
 
To me, it's great to see the 3 ppm overnight loss, cause it means algae is dying, and I like algae dying :)

Just a thought, but what about assuming the +/- 20 ppm ColorQ specification on the CYA test means you have "54" ppm CYA (plus you mentioned 'around 50' somewhere back in this thread). If it was my pool, I'd call it 60 ppm CYA and Maintain the SLAM at 24 ppm FC. No one is swimming anyway, so no harm in that.

And welcome, good to have you here :)
 
needsajet said:
To me, it's great to see the 3 ppm overnight loss, cause it means algae is dying, and I like algae dying :)

Just a thought, but what about assuming the +/- 20 ppm ColorQ specification on the CYA test means you have "54" ppm CYA (plus you mentioned 'around 50' somewhere back in this thread). If it was my pool, I'd call it 60 ppm CYA and Maintain the SLAM at 24 ppm FC. No one is swimming anyway, so no harm in that.

And welcome, good to have you here :)
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I was thinking the same thing about the CYA. The ColorQ had been really consistently in the low 50s for a while then suddenly dropped to the 30s when the FC was bumped way up. I've been targeting more like 20 rather than 16 thinking it couldn't hurt. I can bump it up to 24.


I was also glad to see the 3ppm overnight loss. It wasn't making sense to see 0 with the clarity as bad as it was.


Does water temperature have any impact? It was really cold (for texas) the last few days but is warming now.
 

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